inexspensive taper tool for surewood shafts.....

[$bowhunter$]

well im starting into woodies luckuly the ones that i have comeing are already pre-tapered so i dont have to worry about it. but i found more shafts and i plan on ordering but the problem is they wont point taper and i dont have a tapertool. well i have a $6 pencil sharpener type but was told it wont work with hardwoods that id need a woodchuck type. im tryin not to have to spend $100 on a sander or a woodchuck and just need to taper surewoods and ramin compresed shafts some what decent. i know there are people who are willing to do this for me for nothing but i still want to have 1 for myself and friends. any advice on a cheap tool or a handheld that works

thanks,
steven

[Bjorn]

Find someone who has a sander or woodchuck, or go to a wood working class, bring your own jig and use their sander. The hand held taper tools all work on the same principle which tends to splinter Doug Fir. Just how it is.

[luvnlongbow]

The Tru-Taper tool works for me. The blades are replacable and it has guide to align the shaft to the tool. Doug Fir is hard on the blades. However like I said it works for me. I believe Three Rivers sells them.Good luck.

Joe

[$bowhunter$]

hey joe,
how well do they work on doug fir and does it give ya a real ugly rough cut?

 ive ben lookin around and thought of building one so if anyone has any plans or knows of any drop me a line please.


thanks,
steven

[Rob DiStefano]

nonsense.  pencil sharpener type woodie tapering tools work well with any wood genus shaft.  i just used a bear paw to taper a dozen surewoods.

[$bowhunter$]

well. now im starting to get confused. some say it will splinter your shafts. others say they do perfectly fine.... i dont know i guess ill try to mabe find some secondaries or junkey shafts and try and taper them with a hanheld. unless someone can prove their point to me with a pic or sumpthin im not sure what to believe.

thanks to all who have comented. and by no means i am not calling any of you a liar im just not sure whos right and whos wrong.

steven

[Grey Taylor]

I don't think it's a who's right or who's wrong, it's more a matter of different experiences and possibly the tools and experience of individuals.
Give it a try. It's unlikely that you'll be using the shafts full length so if the results are poor, cut off that little piece and go another route. What will you lose, 3/4"?

Guy

[$bowhunter$]

well. i have a problem with that. i need the shaft full length. i have about a 30" draw so i need a 32" shaft. i guess i could spare a little if i mess up. well the pencil sharpener i have is aparently dull. i guess my sister thought it was a 2 sided pencil sharpener and sharpened all her colered pencils and a crayon in it. so now i need a new one. anyone know a good tool thats realitively cheap that will still put good tapers on surewoods?

thanks,
steven

sorry bout all the questions

[3Under]

I have a combination belt/disk sander that I used with a 3Rivers "taper block"(nock & field tip/broadhead tapers).I practiced on a couple broken shafts and was able to make acceptable tapers.Used it on one of my last batch of arrows(sitka spruce).

[Rob DiStefano]

if the shaft wood is junk, even the sharpest blade will shred instead of cut.  but you do need a sharp tapering tool blade!  i've built maybe 6 dozen surewood fir shafts to date, and all have 'apple peeled' when fed into a bear paw tapering tool.  using that same tool on what was s'posed to be 'premium poc', the wood crumbled rather than peeled - that was a case of not getting what i paid for.

[Rob DiStefano]

you can make sanding disk jig for nock and point tapering.  it's easy.  just use a shaft with good nock and point tapers set parallel to the sanding wheel on top of some 1/2" or so plywood and add strip of wood for each taper angle.

[$bowhunter$]

ok. is the bear paw you use rob the new metal one or the less exspensive plastic one? will compressed shafing crunble when taperd by the hand held tool? again sorry for the questions i just want ot make sure i KNOW what im doing.

thanks,
steven


only thing is i dont have a sanding disk that goes in a complete circle. all the ones i have ossolate...

[Grey Taylor]

Originally posted by $bowhunter$:
well. i have a problem with that. i need the shaft full length.

Well, it  sounded  like a good idea!

Guy

[luvnlongbow]

To answer your question...Again the Tru-Taper tool works fine for me. It is similar in design to the Bearpaw Rob mentioned if I am correct. I will clarify my statement about Doug Fir being tough on blades. They seem to get dull (relative term) quicker than when I do POC (I'm not talking about doing a dozen shafts then having to change blades). As for the tapers if they are rough all you have to do is take a little fine sandpaper to them. As stated elsewhere I also feel a sharp blade is essential for a good taper.

Joe

[SlowBowinMO]

The little affordable Traditional Only taper tools we sell work just great on Surewoods...the key is to get a new one when they start to get dull and wear out.  But they last longer than you'd expect, a good value that works well, just what you're looking for I think.    

 

[SEMO_HUNTER]

There you go Steven, the man has spoken. Get the taper tool.

Personally I use a belt sander with a home made jig that I clamp to the table. My angles are set and always reliable. Plus I've got enough sanding disks to last a lifetime.

[Canyon]

Got one of the tools from Tim at Braveheart and it works great on Surewoods. It does not work as well on ash however!

[buckster]

Ditto Tim @ Braveheart, just bought mine from him on sale!

[Joshua Polland]

Steven, From my experience with surewood shafts and a True Center, I get at least two shredded shafts per dozen. That's with a brand new blade. I've heard great things about the Bear Paw, but I'm going to use a sanding jig from now on. I bought the taper jig from three rivers and made a top for it since it's not that big and your fingers will get a little close to the disc. I'm sure that you could make one that is much better with scrap wood, I think that I'm going to try. I'm like you, I need all 32" of shaft for my broadheads, otherwise they will barely rub my riser. There's really no room for error. Good luck, Joshua

[BowHuntingFool]

Originally posted by Braveheart Archery:
The little affordable Traditional Only taper tools we sell work just great on Surewoods...the key is to get a new one when they start to get dull and wear out.  But they last longer than you'd expect, a good value that works well, just what you're looking for I think.        

     

This is what Ii have used a dozens of Surewood shafts!!!!!!!!