Brushless/tapeless cresting

[Stumpkiller]

I use a shelf over my workbench.  Two 1/2" x 4" dowels set halfway into the shelf edge exactly 26" apart on centers.  And two goat castration bands on the shelf end of the dowels for clearance - but those are optional.  ;-)

My weight is an exact two pounds: made up of lead with a screw hook to loop over the shaft.

I have an unloaded index mark and, when loaded, I note on a little ruler taped to the shelf where it ends up.  Then I use a vernier caliper to measure the difference (aka deflection).

Some day I gotta get fancy and buy a micrometer like Rob shows.  But this works fine.

     

[Stumpkiller]

Originally posted by moose eye levi:
While using the same products (the markers) would dipping the shafts in min wax poly make them run as opposed to rubbing it on?

No.  BUT, I would test whatever you intend on using.  Also, if you thin the polyurethane for dipping that's another solvent at work.  I used straight out of the can for wiping.  I found the Sharpie to be colorfast no matter how much polyu I applied.  The Pilot metal ink markers ran and dissolved under the polyu so I do that highlighting just before fletching after the polyu sat 24 hours to dry well.

I tried Pantone and other markers years back and they ran under a lacquer dip - which some folks think looks good.

[Rob DiStefano]

yer spine machine is every bit as good a tool as mine, charlie!  

i might add to all, you MUST have straightened the shafts b4 checking them on the spine machine or all bets are off, and yer readings will be total doo-doo.

[Stumpkiller]

Thanks.  And I agree on the straightening: before tapering either end, too!  I straighten mine (or at least inspect) three times before fletching.  Before spine, before taper, before fletch.

PS - if you look close - that shaft is tapered and you can see the back bends more than the front.  But spine is spine.