Who uses a chrono

[Andy Cooper]

Originally posted by Killdeer:
I don't only shoot bows!

Me neither...even in the yard!  :eek:    :D

[JamesV]

well............

I got one, and lots of other stuff too

James..........

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Originally posted by Flying Dutchman:
I asked this question because I am into 3D archery. There are a lot of serious tournaments in The Netherlands/Belgium. I see that the tournaments become more difficulter each year.
Distances of 40 yards are quite common these days, and even up to 60.

Also the targets are more difficult to hit. Many times there are just small holes between the branches were you have to shoot trough in order to hit the target.

All this asks for fasts bows and a flat trajectory.

Besides of that, I think a chrono can tell you something about your form.
i.e. when you squeeze in the riser (a too firm grip) this will cost speed.
Not drawing at your lenght, will cost speed.

If your chrono is always giving the same results, I think that might tell something about your form.

An inconsequent form (different drawlenghts due to no proper anchoring and/or pulling trough or a too firm gip, like squeezing the riser) will give different readings I think.

Just my 5 cents....

All excellent points. I have a chronograph and use it for a number of different reasons -- some related to me, and others related to relative bow performance. I've also found it a useful tool to confirm or debunk theories I've heard or read over the years (how fletching size effects arrow speed, brass nocks versus tied on ones, skinny strings versus normal ones, arrow weight and FOC's effects on trajectory and speed). Guessing is fun, but knowing is better.

It's also useful for me when I'm setting up a backup bow. Ideally, I want to tune it to shoot the same arrows the same speed as my primary bow. Sure, I could take both bows out to the field range and test them from 20 feet to 80 yards, which I do anyway (yes, I'm just that picky), but a chronograph lets me know if any devations on point of impact between two bows are issues of velocity or my particular shooting nuances.

[Lee Robinson .]

It can be used to help determine the efficiency of a bow.

It can be used to determine consistency of form and clean release (which can also be done by bareshaft testing).

It can be used to see if speed claims of various strings are really significant or not. It can be used to find which changes are substantial. When I compared dacron to dynaflight97, I found dynaflight typically gained 6-8 fps depending on other details (on some bow designs the change was only 5 fps, while on a few other designs it was as much as 10 fps). I also used it to compare things like a normal weight strings (15 strands) vs. light weight strings (8 strands), and I was unable to notice any significant difference when I actually tested them...MAYBE 1-2 fps at best, and I am being generous here. I just didn't see the difference people boasted about, but most people that boast such didn't actually test it either. Such tests helped me determine the "cost/gain" ratio of how to use various products in a way that best served my desired goals. (Note: I am happy with strings anywhere from 9-15 strand dynaflight97 bowstrings, as the chronograph helped me prove to myself that I would be giving up durability for little to nothing in return).

For these reasons I think it is a useful tool, but I don't think it is an essential one. If you are going to use it to evaluate certain things, they only cost about a $100 and can be useful in terms of providing objective measures. However, if you already have a set up that you are happy with and that is proven to work, there is no need for getting a chronograph to "approve" something that has already proven itself. A spine tester and a grain scale would be more important in my honest opinion, especially for someone that shoots wood.

[Rob DiStefano]

well said, lee.  

[vtmtnman]

Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
   

Originally posted by vtmtnman:
... I consider it part of an archers' tool bag like a spine tester or arrow saw.Not necessary to enjoy archery but good for going to the next level.

"good to go to the next level" in what way?  

what does knowing the speed of an arrow do for you to better your shooting?

please help me understand your logic. [/b]

My logic is some folks like to get into the level of tinkering and experimenting.And some don't.Like I said,you don't need an arrow saw or spine tester to enjoy archery.

No offense meant,I was asked about my thoughts or experiences.

[rraming]

I own one and have shot through it - wish I wouldn't have. As most, I'm not into speed but wanted to see what these folks are shooting, that post and claim 200fps. They are coming from a really light arrow - too light for my taste. I suppose you could move silencers and change brace height to get your bow to shoot it's best, if your not into that, don't bother spending the money.

[YORNOC]

I think its a fun tool to have. I don't really care either about speed out of a hunting bow, I know what a bow can do after shooting it. For shooting 3D its pretty cool, then you can lighten up your arrows for flatter trajectory. You can compare limbs, etc. to find the best performance.
 Some guys only 3D to practice for hunting, which would make this worthless. But when I shoot 3d myself, its to win at 3D. Has nothing to do with hunting. Thats what stumping is for in my opinion.
But buying a chrono is not gonna hurt you unless its the chrono OR a more useful piece of equipment. I think it will only make you more familiar with your bows and limbs.
Plus, again its kinda fun.

[Paul B.]

I wish I had one, it would be cool to experiment with. I like gadgets and tinkering.

[Andy Cooper]

I like the tinkering aspect, too. In fact, I'm even contemplating going through the physics involved with longbows. After all, I'd hate for those 2 physics courses I took in college to complete my pre-veterinary requirements to go completely to waste!    

Chronies are fun, but certainly not a 'must have!'

I had a 50 pound longbow and my wife her NAT. We have identical draw lengths. I shot a couple of my wife's arrows and they seemed slower when i shot them.  My wife shot a couple of my heavier arrows and said they fly just fine for her.  We went over to a friend that loves his digital speedometer.  My wife's 38 pound NAT shot both arrows faster than my 50 pound longbow.  The remedy was, I gave that 50 pounder to someone with a longer draw than me and I will stick with my faster bows.  Was it an essential tool to know that info, heck no.  I could have shot those arrows for distance and would have known the same thing.  Would that slow 50 pounder kill a deer? Absolutely.

[Flying Dutchman]

For all the guys who think that 3d shooting is about light arrows: sometimes it is but mostly it isn't.
As we all know, a light arrow will shorten the life of your precious bow. I don't have a money tree in my backyard, so I want my bows to last.

I shoot 10 gpp I think that is the ideal weight. Besides of that: I found out that a light arrow is very nervous, sensitive for hitting leaves or small branches and not forgiving for the slightest mistake in your form.

So I've been looking around for a longbow which was able to reach at least 185 fps @ 10 gpp. I found it.

I also moved over to a skinny string. In The Netherlands, a 16 strands string is considered normal, even for very light bows like 25lbs. At the moment I am shooting a 10 strands, but I will move over to a 6 strands ultra string from SBD (with padded loops ofcourse). Generally speaking, and depending from bow to bow, I would say that one strand less increases your bowspeed with 1 fps. So moving over from 16 to 6 strands will incrrease your speed with 10 lbs. Remove your string silencers and gain a few fps more.  

I also take my wooden shafts very serious. I have to shoot wood, because on a LOT of traditional tournaments it is wood only. My supplier, which is a friend also, spines my arrows in the lbs exactly and takes care they are all in the same weight range and are straight ofcourse. For this service I pay only 25 cents extra per shaft and it is worth it. End of this month he gets a new shipment And I get all the arrows who fit my bill. I hope he reaches 24. I think my woodies are as consistant as carbon or alu.

I don't have a spinetester, because my arrows are spined for me, but I do have a grain scale ofcourse for weighing all the things you should know and can contribute to the perfect arrow.

For shooting woods a grain scale is just as important as any other tool.  I finally bought a digital, the old hangy one was never very accurate.  Though a digital speedometer is not essential, they are fun.

[Rob DiStefano]

ad, yer basically talking target language, not bowhunting.  ifaa fita trad longbow rules have almost nothing in common with trad bowhunting, and to boot the gear rules biased and illogical.

i still see no need for a chrono for trad target archers, either barebow or freestyle.  it's far easier to work out trajectories by just shooting the arrows at distance.

but i'll wager you a custom longbow that a carbon arrow will be far more consistent that the best of yer woodies - in every way.  with one arrow each, let's take a rove for an hour or so ....  :D

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by pavan:
For shooting woods a grain scale is just as important as any other tool.  I finally bought a digital, the old hangy one was never very accurate.  Though a digital speedometer is not essential, they are fun.

i'm working up a few dozen woodies right now, surewoods.  a grain scale is a nice to have - i use one! - but if the shaft source is a good one, not really needed.  i digitally weighed these 2 dozen full length shafts and the weight range is 369 to 380 grains.  plus, when cut to length and tapered, the added weight losses will also not be uniform since wood grain is not uniform.  all in all, it's lots less than 10 grains and that won't break the bank of even a target arrow.

[Flying Dutchman]

Rob, ofcourse I am talking 3D language (which is something different as target shooting), because that is my ballgame and passion.

As for my woodies: I challenge every carbonshooter, no matter what distance! I am convinced that a woodie as described in my former post shoots as good, for not better than  a carbon arrow. As a matter of fact: I shot carbon too, and for quite a while, but I moved back to wood.

Besides of that: on many tournaments there are lots of carbonshooters which don't even come close to me.

[chanumpa]

Ive always just used them to kind of see how one of my bows stacksup against another,and to see what these new string matierials and number ofstrands in a string really makes.Nothing really productive for me.Just kind of a curio for me.I think Mr.DiStefano is right for all practical purposes.They can be an effective tool for some bowyers.Helps to see improvement in tip design and limb construction.Its a competitive world these days for some.Ive never owned one ,but usually always been able to use one when needed.

[jess stuart]

I build almost all of my own bows and have a chrony.  I enjoy seeing how fast mine shoot compared with others out there.  That said I built bows for twenty years and never felt shorted.  Not really necessary but fun.

Even though most of my shafts come with the grains written on them, it seems to disappear when I finish them.  i make arrows for quite a few people, and doing the math and trying to remember what the arrows were to begin with, when they ask me how heavy they are, gets to be a guess sometimes.  I always write the spines on the shafts, but the basic Rose Cities i get don't have the grains written on them and vary from batch to batch, so do my tapered shafts.  There are always ways to work around these things, but having stuff to satisfy ones curiosity is easier than guessing.  Like the time we wanted to know how fast our arrows were flying at a hundred yards.  We built a shield for the chrono, those things are hard to hit that far off.  Arrows definitely slow down in the air, especially mine.
   On the other hand how many bows do we really need.  No wait, I got that one.  When i buy a set of carbons and they end up too stiff for the bow I wanted them for I go to the stiffer bow.  But then I still don't have arrows for the 51 pounders.

[Flying Dutchman]

Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
   

Originally posted by pavan:
For shooting woods a grain scale is just as important as any other tool.  I finally bought a digital, the old hangy one was never very accurate.  Though a digital speedometer is not essential, they are fun.

i'm working up a few dozen woodies right now, surewoods.  a grain scale is a nice to have - i use one! - but if the shaft source is a good one, not really needed.  i digitally weighed these 2 dozen full length shafts and the weight range is 369 to 380 grains.  plus, when cut to length and tapered, the added weight losses will also not be uniform since wood grain is not uniform.  all in all, it's lots less than 10 grains and that won't break the bank of even a target arrow. [/b]

Rob, I agree, wood is a natural material with all its beautiful aspects. The builder adds some inconsistencies too! Sometimes you use more glue as intended, as well for the nocks as points. I handlacquer the last 10 inches of my shaft with four layers, I bed some shafts "suck" more paint then others. I give the remaining part of my shafts three layers with Tung oil, and some like more then others. All this leads to weight differences.

Therefore I weigh them on a grainscale after they heve dried and are completed. Then I make sets within the same weight range. They differ only +/- 5 grains. I know this is very pickey, but it gives me a good feeling!