You know, every bow ever made, regardless of the style, has a specific pressure point on the grip that allows the limb to be timed perfectly. That is, the tips return to the brace height at exactly the same instant. Most Hill-style bows are tillered so that that pressure point is in the middle of the handle. If you use a grip that has a higher pressure point, you get handshock (the tips not returning to brace height at the same time). A heavy limbed bow will amplify the shock. It's just a matter of physics.
Certainly a hill-style bow can be tillered to accommodate a high wrist, recurve style grip, but if it isn't, it'll jar you. The heavier and thicker the limbs, the more shock you'll get. Again, physics.
The way Rob D grips his Hills, is a little higher pressure point than I use on mine, but I think he uses a 3 under grip, which essentially moves the pivot point higher on the grip. And he might buy bows specifically tillered for the way he shoots. My Hills, if shot the way Rob does, give me a good buzz. It's not bad if I shoot the way he holds his bow hand and I use my regular split finger grip. But they work best if my hand pressure is a little lower on the handle. The key, like Rob said is to make sure you are consistent and try to have a small a contact point as possible.
If you put a bow on a tiller tree, it's very easy to see where that bow is designed to be held.
That being said, I choose to shoot a Hill because: it's quiet, it's light, it's simple, it's forgiving, it shoots heavy arrows almost as fast as it shoots lighter arrows, it's smooth, it's easy to string and unstring, and I like the way they look. I can shoot it from just about any position. Sitting, kneeling, laying on my stomach, crouched over, reverse cant. The length is an obstacle at times, but I can deal with that.