rick welch students

[59Alaskan]

Foxtail's photos are excellent to show why you'd want LW on a right handed shooter.  The tip of a LW fletch will angle up toward your nose allowing you to hit the tip of the nose easier.  

On a RH shooter a RW fletch will angle down away from your nose making it more difficult to hit the tip of your nose which could cause you to dropping your head too much in toward the arrow.

Foxtail also brings up a critical point - trust your bow arm.  If I had a nickel for every time Rick told me that I may have gotten my course for free!

[DBinAlamo]

Will a 5" shield cut be a good choice of feather?

[Friend]

BBinAlamo-

1. If shooting a short Brace Ht. then the fletch may be contacting the riser with the arrow nocked.

2. Possibly if shooting normal FOC and a wide BH the abililty to correct flight is diminished and possibly visible due to moving the fletch further from the knock. Personally, I have not experienced this issue since my set-ups are geared for maximum FOC. I have yet to hear of anyone having issues with the 4".

[DBinAlamo]

Friend, I shoot 200+ up front and usually woodsman elites for bhs. Do you think 4" feather is enough?  DB

[tawmio]

I shoot a 530gr arrow "Beman bone collector" w. 100 grain insert and 145grain tip, 245 up front with 4 inch shield back -Its plenty of fletch just make sure your bareshaft group well with your fletched or just right of your fletched -fletching will stiffen up your arrow.

[tawmio]

Thanks ceme24 that was my guess just wasnt sure about the LW fletching on right hand shooter.

[fujimo]

so much info there.
thanks
much appreciated

[wv lungbuster]

[Friend]

BBinAlamo-

Take note that what works for one may not for another. There are many variables. If your bare shafts, fletched shafts and fletched shafts with BH's are on mark, you should be in great shape.

[tawmio]

very true friend. also i noticed when you r close to perfect on your tuning you can try to turn down your helical a bit. Too much helical will slow down an arrow, with a good tuned arrow you whont need hardly any helical at all.
Tommy

[lucky strike]

I Just saw the video-I went ahead and tried Welch's style and must admit it works well.
He keeps stressing HOLD, HOLD and then the release will be automatic.That's fine for a Deer or bear posing to be shot. What do you do with speed shots tha thappen all to often??
Other than that ,I shoot a bow with  46# @ my draw
and can hold easily for a really long time without
any automatic release.Am I to assume that the poundage has to be high enough that one can't hold at draw for more than 2 sconds or so in order to have the string automatically rip loose?

[CoilSpring]

Lucky Strike said...
"Am I to assume that the poundage has to be high enough that one can't hold at draw for more than 2 sconds or so in order to have the string automatically rip loose?"

No, it has nothing to do with draw wt, but is part of the "trust your bow arm" thing as it becomes INSTINCTIVE or an "unconscious release" when your brain tells your hand to release the string because the bow arm is pointed at the target.  The release just "happens" unconsciously, kind of like "being in the zone" and unlike consciously pulling a trigger to shoot.

[Onlyaspike]

I also ordered the video....Im seriosly considering a couple days at his school this summer.

[Lowrider]

I took Ricks class last November. I think what he is trying to do when he shoots on the video is to show you exactly what to do to get accustomed to shooting this way. He also has his students do this to ingrain it into their routine. When you see him shoot in person, he does not hold like that. As he told me he has been doing it for a long time. He throws up and shoots pretty fast and hits exactly where he is looking and I mean some long shots to. I could not believe my eyes. If you get a chance, it may be well worth the money to go to his school. You will be surprised at what you will come away with.

[Bruce Martin]

It is really interesting. I took his class 2 years ago and it is my standard method of shooting now (I went as a split finger shooter). He has been doing it a long time. Just the other day I decided to take a look at his first video (only 20 minutes long!) and made in the mid-90's. All the elements are there on the first video except the knuckle to the ear lobe. It is not a great video in the context of the next 2 he has done but with hindsight and the experience of attending his school you can see he figured this out a long time ago. As far as shooting fast, once you get the system down and consistently have good form and the consistent anchor, then shoot as fast as you need to for the hunting situation. Don't see any difference from a split finger approach. The fundamentals are really similar.