Securing inserts when tuning carbons?

[Red Dwarf]

I am bareshaft tuning some new carbons and am having trouble getting the brass inserts to hold secure enough not to pull out inside the target but still be removable for trimming the shaft length.

How have you guys overcome this problem?

Red Dwarf

[L. Perry]

try some good hotmelt, works for me.

[rastaman]

Or use a small piece of saran wrap or plastic bag like you get from the grocery store.

[HB3]

If Bareshafting, just trim back end.

[BWD]

Glue the inserts in place, and trim from the nock end.

[Huntschool]

If they are not tappered shafts trim from the back.  If they are use hot melt and a target point.  To remove just heat the point with a propane torch while trying to turn the point and insert with pliers..  JUST HEAT THE POINT>> and keep trying to turn it... it will start to turn and you can get it out....

[JRY309]

What I do for tuning my carbons is to use some saran wrap,push in the insert with the saran wrap.It will hold it in tight enough for tuning.But you need a softer target like a bag target,that doesn't grab as tight as a foam targert.I do this method for tuning,I'll shoot through a shallow box.The box will hold the position of the arrow and the bag target doesn't grab too tight to pull the insert back out.I also fit my brass inserts to the arrow shafts.Sometimes the brass insert will be slightly larger making alittle lip on it.I mount a point in my drill and spin the insert and file it to fit flush with the shaft so there in no lip to catch.I like to tune with my arrow wraps on so cutting from the nock end doesn't work for me.

[Red Dwarf]

I am using the method recommended O.L. Adcock for bareshaft tuning; you compare the impact points of bare and fletched shafts where, except for the fletching, the arrows are identical.
Without removing the fletching every time you want to trim shaft length you have to cut from the point end.
I don't wish to use hot melt as this may adversly affect the glue bond when final epoxying takes place.

I think I will try the grocery bag/saran method.

Thanks guys for helping out once more.

Red Dwarf

[McDave]

I don't like to heat the point with a propane torch, because just the least amount too much heat, and the carbon begins to disintegrate.  I glue the insert in with a small dab of hot melt glue, and when I want to remove it, I hold the end in boiling water.  This works for either the point or nock insert, and doesn't heat the carbon enough to damage it.

When I want to hold the insert in permanently, I use Insert Iron.  Insert Iron will also soften in hot water, but not as easily as hot melt glue.

[RUSTY1]

I use about a 2" piece of 4-6 lb fishing line! Works like a champ!

Rusty

[KYArcher]

I use a plastic grocery bag...KY

[cyred4d]

A small dab of hot melt will hold like McDave said. Then you can take a metal rod slightly smaller in diameter than your shaft. Slam it into the insert a couple of time and the insert will break free.

[maineac]

I have had the Saran wrap pull out often enough to not want to  use it again.  I would go with a small amount of hot melt.

[Huntschool]

McDave.. I have been doing it this way for some time (10 years or so) and I can not say it has disintegrated (melt) or otherwise denigrated the carbon on any shafts I have.  I have some shafts that are 7+ years old an have had the heck shot out of them.  I learned the hard way by using too much heat.

I agree if it gets too hot you can have a problem which is why I said just the tip and to keep trying to turn them.  I also "dunk" the shaft in room temp water after removing the insert.  

I actually went to a friend who is an engineer (Chemical and Mechanical) and asked about the  degradation which heat may cause.  Told him what I was doing and even gave him some samples of shafts.  His comment was if it doesnt start to soften its OK but be carful.  I do not remember the Temp at which it softens but I don't get any place close to it.

[rraming]

Originally posted by HB3:
If Bareshafting, just trim back end.

+1 - it's only one shaft and you know your length with that shaft forever, still good as the rest

[McDave]

Bruce,

My only experience with heating the tips with a propane torch is when I break or damage a carbon shaft and want to salvage the insert.  In that case, I just heat the tip until I can pull the insert out.  Since the shaft is already wrecked, I'm not trying to save it, so admitedly I'm not too careful with how much heat I apply to the tip.  I notice under those conditions that when I pull out the insert some of the carbon is often curled around it, which I then have to peel off before I can re-use the insert.

I'm sure you're right, that if you're careful, you can heat the tip without damaging the carbon shaft.

[Huntschool]

Dave:

I think there may be a difference her.. Are you using an epoxy?  I use nothing but hot melt.  The epoxy may take a higher temp to become flexable and the fact that you have a residue...

Just a thought.  Bye the Bye... nice mulie in your avatar

[Killdeer]

I used a piece of blue painter's tape the other day, it even held up in the soft foam butts at the club. I needed to put the point in a bench vise and twist the insert out.

Killdeer

[SS Snuffer]

I have use nothing but hotmelt. Have never had a broadhead come off. If you drive it in a tree you might have a problem but at least you can save the shaft. Forget epoxy its not needed. Makes it much easier to true up the T.I.R

[Huntschool]

Killy:

How tight was your insert to start with?  That tape is something I had not thought of.....