New shooter, new member, howdy everyone! (semi-large photos)

[WanderingSoul]

Just wanted to drop in a first post and introduce myself. I've been lurking as a non-member around the site for some time and finally took the dive into traditional archery. After years of shooting compound and recently looking for a new bow after a 5 year vacation from archery, I was barraged with hundreds of compounds bows, insanely new technology and thought to myself… why?

After gasping at the prices and all the accessories required to be a "real compound bow hunter", I chose the traditional route. I've always been fascinated with recurves and long bows. So looking around I wasn't happy with what the major manufacturer's were offering, so I looked some more and found White Wolf Custom bows. Exceptionally priced and amazingly styled, not to mention the added bonus of the reflex/deflex limbs. I found one that Tony was selling on his shop. (See pictures below).

Picked up a 64" - 49# @ 28" (my draw is a little over 27"). I am still a little concerned I will be "overbowed" but I'm hopeful and think I will be OK. I did have a question for those with more experience: Is the measuring arm span and dividing by 2.5 an accurate way to measure draw length? The pro-shop guy took a guess when I walked in and said I was a 27" draw length, after calculating I was 69" /  2.5, which is 27.6, do we round down?

Being my draw length is 27", I know it's not completely cut and dry but would 29" or 30" arrows be suitable for my application? My thought process was that the extra bit of arrow on the end would assist with aiming. I may be wrong there, I'm not sure.

Hopefully my bow will arrive tomorrow and I'll be able to set the nock point, go get some arrows cut (cheating with carbons & feathers), and shoot until I'm sore. I'll admit to being a little nervous about shooting traditional but I've always been a natural aim, and hope that won't change.

I'm a system administrator (BIG computers/servers), I'm willing to offer guidance, consultation etc. for anyone that needs it pertaining to traditional archery, environmental conservation or hunters rights. My father used to teach hunters education so I know the importance and under-funding these programs get. I do some graphic design work and know how to develop web pages. Pretty much the jack of all trades with computers, so if you have a trad club, trade event, or just want to talk tech I can assist you with designing invitations, websites, logos, etc. If you need help picking out a new PC drop me a line, I can offer advise. I offer this all free to those in the "inner circle".

Have a good night, and see everyone around!

               

[Mudd]

Welcome to the tradgang family!

Enjoy your journey along with the rest of us.

God bless,Mudd

[Bud B.]

Welcome along...    


As for some of your questions:


1 - Draw length - You really should cut your arrows longer at first to see where you settle in on anchor and muscle conditioning.

2 - Nock point - Bare shaft tune and see where it goes. My advice would be to get some GT Traditional carbons in 3555 and leave them full length until you get # one above figured out.

3 - Buy a doz each 125, 145, and 160 grain field points to help with #1 and #2 above.

4 - Maybe even consider buying an inexpensive recurve at around #30 pull and practice form and anchor with it, then get serious with the #49er.

My advice is what I'd do. If you can shoot a #49 bow from the start then go for it. I'm sure other folks will chime in with sound advice. There are many seasoned hunters and shooters on here with waaaay more experience then I have.

Again, welcome aboard.


Bud

[BOWMARKS]

Welcome to the gang,be carefull it is addicting and some of the customs get a pretty penny,but some us think they are worth it!!

[WanderingSoul]

Originally posted by Bud B.:
Welcome along...      


As for some of your questions:


1 - Draw length - You really should cut your arrows longer at first to see where you settle in on anchor and muscle conditioning.

2 - Nock point - Bare shaft tune and see where it goes. My advice would be to get some GT Traditional carbons in 3555 and leave them full length until you get # one above figured out.

3 - Buy a doz each 125, 145, and 160 grain field points to help with #1 and #2 above.

4 - Maybe even consider buying an inexpensive recurve at around #30 pull and practice form and anchor with it, then get serious with the #49er.

My advice is what I'd do. If you can shoot a #49 bow from the start then go for it. I'm sure other folks will chime in with sound advice. There are many seasoned hunters and shooters on here with waaaay more experience then I have.

Again, welcome aboard.


Bud

Good advice, thanks! I've been working on my bow arm, the father-in-law has a compound @ 45# (he had double elbow and shoulder surgery so he can't shoot much weight) that I've been holding at it's peak (before let off), I think with a little conditioning and shooting with the new bow I won't have a problem. I used to shoot a 65# compound, it was OLD and didn't have much let off, still WAY different than traditional bows though.

As far as the nock goes, are there guys that don't shoot with nock points? I will give it a whirl before I go throwing nock points on the string. I was looking at Carbon Express 4560's 29-30" (or more now...), with 100 grain points.

Thanks again!

[WanderingSoul]

Originally posted by BOWMARKS:
Welcome to the gang,be carefull it is addicting and some of the customs get a pretty penny,but some us think they are worth it!!

You're telling me, I stumbled on the Black Widow bow site, and I could hear the wife yelling at me just for browsing...    

It's awesome to see such handy work and woodworking being done. I'm a young-un, but being in technology all day at work, it's nice to escape to a simpler time. One big thing for me was that I don't *need* a pro-shop to press my bow, and I can support more local folks as opposed to large companies.

[Shawn Leonard]

Nice to have you hear. I would start with a 35/55 GT as they are usually available, not crazy about them but as I said most shops carry them cut them to 30"s that way later you can cut shorter if you need too. Or anything .500 spine Out of that bow I would say go with at least a 175 grain point if not more. An aluminum insert is roughly 15 grains so field points from 160-200 grains would be a great way to get started. Screw a couple different weights on and see which gives you the best flight. At least you will be close this way and can start shooting right from the get go with getting frustrated from the get-go. You can fine tune things as you go. If you have been lurking here I am sure you are way ahead of the curve and not a true newby! Best of luck and let us know how you make out!!! Most of all have fun!! Shawn

[30pointbuck]

Welcome glad to have ya with us.  

                   

[Buckskin57]

Welcome.Years ago(1985)I bought my first custom bow (Colorado Bighorn) from G. Fred Asbell and also got his book alittle later Instintive Shooting,step by step guide to better Bowhunting.This book improved my shooting and bowhunting skills immensely.I've recently purchased Masters of the Barebow 3 volumns.It is full of various shooting styles and technics from some of the Best around,its alot of FUN too,

[ti-guy]

welcome,nice bow  

[Red Tailed Hawk]

[WanderingSoul]

Originally posted by Shawn Leonard:
Nice to have you hear. I would start with a 35/55 GT as they are usually available, not crazy about them but as I said most shops carry them cut them to 30"s that way later you can cut shorter if you need too. Or anything .500 spine Out of that bow I would say go with at least a 175 grain point if not more. An aluminum insert is roughly 15 grains so field points from 160-200 grains would be a great way to get started. Screw a couple different weights on and see which gives you the best flight. At least you will be close this way and can start shooting right from the get go with getting frustrated from the get-go. You can fine tune things as you go. If you have been lurking here I am sure you are way ahead of the curve and not a true newby! Best of luck and let us know how you make out!!! Most of all have fun!! Shawn

Unfortunately the shop around here only carries Trophy Ridge and Carbon Express arrows. The closest shop that carries GT's is about an hour away.

The one strange thing is Carbonexpress uses an "adjusted bow draw weight" scheme, you fill out what kind of bow you have, add and subtract numbers depending and it gives you what draw weight to use when referencing their arrows.

With 100 grain screw in points, at 28"+ (29/30"), they recommend Mutiny, Piledriver, Mayhem, Maxima, and Terminator lite in 250. The heavier was the Rebel in 4560.

Being unfamiliar with traditional bows, is it better to have a heavier broadhead/tip than a stiffer arrow? (am I confusing my terms, I'm still *new* to this... =) )

EDIT: After looking quickly, most of the CE 250 Arrows are spined @ .400+

[LONGSTYKES]

Welcome aboard, Great site and very knowledgeable group. Enjoy the ride.

[59Alaskan]

Welcome!  Nice looking bow.

[LH Keith]

Welcome!
 Good advice above (as always)! Be sure to also check out Rob DiStefano's "newbie" post up top.
 My very first custom Bow was a White Wolf (Longbow). Tony was great to deal with, still think of him from time to time.
                             Keith

[alex m]

Welcome to the gang.  It's a great bunch and a great site, as I'm sure you know.  Alex

[Geo S]

Welcome to the gang !

George

[Shawn Leonard]

Sorry but your shop has no clue!! With those arrows you will need over 250 grains up front even cut to 30"s. They will be way too stiff. As I said get a .500 spine which they should have in one of the shafts you mentioned and keep it at least 30"s and go with a minimum of 175 point weight. Ex. I shoot a high performance recurve cut well past center and a my draw 28.5"s I am shooting 51#s right now and with a 29.5" .500 spined arrow I am shooting 175 grains up front for perfect arrow flight. Carbon is a different animal off of traditional bows and sorry but most compound shooters and shops have no clue. Shawn

[Shawn Leonard]

Where in NY are ya? Arrow weight is important but the spine is what you really have to get right to get an arrow to fly well from traditional bows, so no a stiff arrow is not good, an arrow that is stiff you can weaken and make fly well but you need to add a lot of point weight to do that. A .400 spine out of that bow will require a lot of point weight even if left full length and cut to 30"s they woulld require at least 250 grains of point weight and most likely more. Keep asking lots of questions as most peoplehere can be very helpful! Shawn

[legends1]

Welcome to Tradgang,there are very good folks on here.Enjoy!