Question on longbow Draw "FEEL" and Bow length?? w length??

[seven crows]

I have always shot shorter bows 52-60" (recurves and longbows). My first Hill was 60".
I have a 26.5" draw. So i generally make complete use of limbs on these shorter bows. ( they bend a lot).
Question: Do longer bows "FEEL" lighter / or are they actually easier to pull higher weights with because you are not engaging as much of the limb?? ( do not bend as much). How would draw weight compare/feel on 60" Hill 50#@ 26.5" vs 68" Hill 50# @ 26.5"?? They are both tillered for the the same draw but less limb is used on longer bow so could it actually feel lighter??
I am sure I will not notice much difference from 60" to my New 62",
but I am wondering????? I await the TG wisdom. 7C

[Owlmagnet]

I don't know about wisdom, 7C, but I shoot hills and have a 27" draw.  Either of your bows would be short for me, I think.  The gentler string angle of the longer limbs reduces finger pinch and, for me, makes a bow "feel" lighter.  I have two 66" bows, one with string follow, one with back set.  Holding weight is holding weight, but there is, for me, a distinct difference in "feel" through the draw.  The string follow starts out easier and there is a steady increase in weight throughout the draw.  The backset starts out "heavier" initially but comes back with less apparent increase in weight.  Of the two, I prefer the string follow.  I probably didn't address your question about limb dynamics, but I hope this post is in some way useful.  Enjoy your new bow!

[Javi]

Leaving out the obvious differences in material characteristics I think the real difference in feel ( smooth draw) and stacking comes from the length of the riser and limbs to make a specific AMO length..  For instance a 60” bow with a 16” riser is is going to feel smoother on the draw than the same length bow with a 20” riser..  AMO bow length, brace height and draw length along with finger size dictate finger pinch..

[LongStick64]

I have a 26" draw and while I shot Hill as short as 60" and shot them well enough, my 68" Cheetah is a smoother mild mannered bow. I don't think 2 inches will be much of a difference but you never know.
One thing I have learned is you cant judge a bow by length alone.  I have a 60" Great Northern Critter Gitter and it is a joy to shoot. Very natural feel to that bow.

[Dick in Seattle]

I have a 25" draw and like a 66" bow as optimum.  I do build a longer riser, up to 18" to get a shorter amo to gain a bit of speed with my short draw and weight limitation, but it still feels smoother than a shorter bow,even if said shorter bow has a shorter riser. String follow also helps with the smoothness.  The last couple of bows I've built I went with the 18" riser, power lams, 4 to 5 inch tip wedges and extreme string follow (1 1/2").  They came out very smooth and quite fast for my limitations.  At higher weights I'd shorten the riser to 16" and scale the power lams back accordingly and build for 68".

[seven crows]

Thanks guys, appreciate the good info, kind of confirming what I have been thinking.

[Bob B.]

I am not sure this will help you but my experience is yes longer is better for smoothness of draw and smoothness of relaese.  That said, I do have a draw of 30 inches.  I do not like to shoot bows under 64 inches ... some of those I do not even like.  I ahve a Whip that is 64 inches.  It is like but-ah!  I have a 66 inch Mohawk - utlra smooth but-ah! I owned a 68 inch Leon Stewart longbow it was like but-ah on steriods!!! So very smooth, easy on the body, and very forgiving of imperfect form.  I am having a Deathwish longbow made for me ... yew over boo and 68 inches ... totally but-ah!!

Core material, length of riser, number of lambs, thickness of core, length of limbs all play a part in the performance and feel of a bow.  However, I believe a basic premise of trad archery is the longer the limbs are the smoother the draw and realese ... in most cases.  There are aways exceptions!!

The bigger challenge may be if a shorter draw can gain the perfomance a 68 inch bow can deliver.  Perhaps it is all realtive.  If you have a 26 inch draw perhaps a 62 inchbow is the best bow for you and at my 30 and a bit inch draw may realize a 66 inch bow or 68 inch as optimal and smoothest.

Clear as mudd?

I hope others will post here for you.

Bob.

[Bjorn]

My son and I both recently bought new limbs to go from a 62" LB to a 64" LB and could not believe the difference!
Better feel and improved accuracy, just from switching to 2" longer limbs. (we both draw 27-28")

[straitera]

50# is the same; but, longer limbs spread (store) energy over a greater arc which feels smoother especially on a quality well tillered bow.

Originally posted by Dick in Seattle:
I have a 25" draw and like a 66" bow as optimum.  I do build a longer riser, up to 18" to get a shorter amo to gain a bit of speed with my short draw and weight limitation, but it still feels smoother than a shorter bow,even if said shorter bow has a shorter riser. String follow also helps with the smoothness.  The last couple of bows I've built I went with the 18" riser, power lams, 4 to 5 inch tip wedges and extreme string follow (1 1/2").  They came out very smooth and quite fast for my limitations.  At higher weights I'd shorten the riser to 16" and scale the power lams back accordingly and build for 68".

Hi Dick!
Would you please clarify "power lams" for me...that is a term I have not come across..

Thanks!

[JRY309]

I draw 27" and my favorite length is 66" in like a Hill or mild R/D bow.For more higher R/D bows I like a 62" bow.

[MikeM]

My experience with Hill style bows is that it is important to have the long enough for your draw. In my case I have a 29" draw and Hill bows less than 70" do not feel as smooth on the draw or as comfortable to shoot.

[Dick in Seattle]

Tony...   power lams are short, tapered laminations that serve to extend the very thinnest part of the fades so that the bow doesn't curve too close to the riser.  In other words, it moves the power up the limbs.  They're a complication in a simple build and I resisted using them, but Kirk (who is a sponsor here) kept telling me to try them so I did.   I extend the pl's 3" to 4" past the end of the fades, so with the 18" riser I use on bows for myself, I use a 24" to 26" pl.  Depending on the weight of the bow, these will be from .100 to .130 in the center with the taper going to zero at the ends.

pardon my simple mind...
why not just modify/build a longer riser?

[Lee Robinson .]

While 50# is 50#...a draw force curve on two bows may or may not be the same, and different draw force curves can make a bow feel lighter or heavier than it really is. Additionally, while 2" is also 2"...the difference between a 60" & a 62" bow will be more dramatic than the difference between a 66" & a 68" bow.

[seven crows]

THanks lee, thats just what I wanted to here!

[Lost Creek Bows]

I would go 60" and 58" if its a forward handle heavy R/D style bow.

[Swamp Yankee]

It seems to me that with a short bow 50# at 28" measured with a bow scale is probably more than 50# at 28" drawn with three fat fingers and the increase string angle they create.

[seven crows]

THanks lee, thats just what I wanted to here!

[seven crows]

THanks lee, thats just what I wanted to here!