Can form have so much impact on bare shaft tuning?

[bauke]

Can you guys perhaps help me...!?

I am shooting a BW PMA V 64” 54# @30” and seems not to be able to get the right arrow for the bow, or have a BIG problem with my form!

My draw is 29.5” and according to Stu Miller’s calculator, the bow gives a dynamic spine of 72.2# (strike plate 1/16 and string Fast Flight 14 strand with spider silencers). I tried a few different arrows with different spine, weight and length, but all gives me a weak indication when I shoot the bare shaft!? (strike to the right and nock left)

Tried glove, as well as different tabs. Fletched arrows shoots fine, but it just make sense that a well tune arrow will give beter flight.

I shoot 3 under, as the bow is tillered for 3 under.

I went up to a CE Heritage 350 with a BOP of 30 and point weight of 100 to give me a dynamic spine of 102.5# and it still give me a weak indication! What can be the solution, as it hits the target to the right and nocks left (I am RH) ?

I even tried to build my strike plate to the left (5/16), but still get the same results!

Do you think that form can have such an effect on the shafts, as I don’t get this with bare shaft tuning on any of my other bows?

[cbCrow]

The best advice I can give you is to go to  www.bowmaker.net  and read. Without knowing more info it seems that you are changing far too many things to reach your goal. Change only one thing at a time and see the results before moving on. If I had your problem before I changed anything else I would start by lighter points to see if the arrow moves to left. Once you get either verified or not than you look at something else. But to answer your question, form can be a big factor in the equation.  

[LostNation_Larry]

Have you tried shooting bare shafts and fletched shafts in the same group?  You can tell more by comparing bare shafts to fletched arrows than you can tell by shooting bare shafts alone.

[30coupe]

I think your arrows are too stiff. They are probably hitting the strike plate on the way, causing the nock left/strike right situation you describe. The arrow needs to bend on release to clear the bow.

If your bow is 54# @ 30" and you draw 29.5" then you are at 52#. Have someone stand to the side of you and watch you shoot some arrows. Chances are you are not drawing 29.5" consistently.

You may also have other form issues, but if the arrows fly well fletched, it is more likely a too stiff condition.

Hope this helps.

Russ

[Rob DiStefano]

archery "shooting form" - or lack thereof - can easily affect anything to do with launching arrows from a bow.  and you can use "form" to control both weak and stiff arrows.  archery starts with, and always ends with, "form" ...

[moebow]

Are you getting any semblance of groups in your shooting?  Rob is right, without consistent form there is NO use trying to tune your equipment.  You can shoot arrows that are several spine groups off what is needed and get good groups.  They may not be in the bull's eye but there will be groups.

Bottom line, no good groups, look to form; good groups, just not where you want, look to equipment tuning.

[Terry Green]

Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
archery "shooting form" - or lack thereof - can easily affect anything to do with launching arrows from a bow.  and you can use "form" to control both weak and stiff arrows.  archery starts with, and always ends with, "form" ...

Yep, Yep, and Yep.

[tim roberts]

Bauke,
A few things that I have found to be great help, is Terry's Clock on the shooters Forum.  While everyone's shooting style varies somewhat there are fundamentals that should be followed, and over there is some super advice.  Another thing, is do you have a way to video yourself while shooting, this can help you see what you are doing, and then once you have that image, it is easier to make sure that when when you are going through the shot in your mind you can make an effort to correct or enhance what will make the shot go off cleaner.  If you don't have the means to video yourself, have a friend or your wife go through the shooters forum with you, and they can learn to tell you what you are doing during the shooting process.  It works best if you have a friend that knows what to look for, but learning with someone else is also good.

[Rob DiStefano]

"shooting form" is about arm, shoulder and head alignment - body alignment can vary, as bowhunters rarely stand square to the mark and can be making shots on game from everything from backwards to lying down.  "terry's clock" lays it all out.

[Bow Bum]

Best advice I can offer is to get some arrows FLETCHED up as close to the proper spine as you can guess/calculate. Then shoot your bow alot, focusing on proper form. Refer to the form clock above and any other form material. You should also be completely honest with your self with regards to your bow weight, and weather or not you are 'overbowed"

Without proper form tuning is useless. Trust me. I know this from personal, frustrating, aggrivating personal experience.

Have patience, and good luck.

Brian

[Bowmania]

cbCrow mention going to Adcocks site.  You may not know the difference between bare shaft planning and tuning.  Adcocks suggest that "planning" takes the form out of the equation.

Bowmania

[LongStick64]

Without question it does. Think of it this way let's say you have a perfectly tuned setup and you shoot a session with bad form, almost quarantee you will have a negative impact concerning your accuracy.

[Ben Tiller]

Release problems lead to all sorts of erratic tuning outputs.  For many years, I had trouble getting good arrow flight, but could should very accurately. . . so my form was consistent.  I just never could get darts.  I switched to a deep hook on the string, and it forced me to relax my hand more on the release.  This cured everything.  Prior to that, I had the string in the first joint, and my fingers weren't getting out of the way on release.  This caused the string to move around my fingertips and jump back as the limbs were releasing.  You simply can't get good arrow flight without a good release.  I bet if you broke out a mechanical release, your "too weak" arrows would instantly turn "too strong."

Ben

[JimB]

You can get that false "weak" indication when form issues cause the arrow to bounce off the outside edge of the shelf.

You should be able to hear some extra noise if this is happening.You may see a slight rub at the edge of the shelf.

One cause of this is torquing the string when drawing.Another cause is top finger pinch but you won't have that with 3 under.You might have someone stand behind you and see if you are torquing the string.

In this case,instead of the string being straight from a rear view,it will be pulled to the side by your lower fingers,making a zig-zag in the string,where your 3 fingers are.