Tuning choice, what would you do?

[FrankM]

If I paper tune from 10 feet with 145 grain points, they tear nock right, about a 1 inch tear. If I use 175 grain points, they shoot bullet holes.

If I go back to 15-18 yards, the arrows are a little nock left when they go in the target. Previously, the arrows with 145 grains were a bit nock right in the target.

Would you add 10-20 grains only and try again?

[FrankM]

Let me add this. When I bareshaft tune, my arrows always group together. No difference with or without feathers. The only thing different is the bareshafted arrow is more nock right as it sticks in the target.

[carpenter]

If it were me,I would just try one or two shafts with the extra weight for a comparison.

[Rob DiStefano]

i think yer doing just fine and wasting time punching paper instead of critters.  :D

[Dryfired]

It depends what you mean by "a little"    If it is about 1/4 inch at 15 yards, then do what Rob says! If it is more, then perhaps do some weight tuning, although I am no expert!

[Swamp Yankee]

Best tuning sessions for me is to just shoot a bunch of different arrows with someone else watching arrow flight.  Pick the one they SEE flying the straightest, done.  You will get different presentations from different differences because the arrow is still oscillating at those short distances.

[Matt Green]

Unless you have the brace ht and silencers "dialed in" you could fiddle with those a bit. Soem people do that first and then refuse to move 'em. Good luck - and enjoyh the tuning
mg

[Bowmania]

The final step in bare shaft planning is how do the fletched shafts group compared to a big broadhead.   www.bowmaker.net

Bowmania

[FrankM]

Thanks guys. I forgot to mention, when I did broadhead tuning with lower weight they flew the same and hit the same spot. I think I better put some broadheads on and recheck.

[FrankM]

[FrankM]

Dang edit function.....
The only reason I upped weight after that is I didn't like the right kick I was getting. Don't know if I should of just ignored it. Comparing my arrows with Stu's Calc, they're way off.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

You mentioned earlier that you also tuned with bare shafts. What distance was that at?

[FrankM]

I tried up to 18 yards (size of backyard). Before I added weight, they would wag back and forth all the way to the target, but they would impact the same spot as fletched arrows. Stu's calc said these arrows were supposed to work, but I decided to try to get rid of the wag. Don't know if I needed to do that. But from what I'd read, wagging is bad.

[BigCnyn]

Frank,
I am no expert, but, the shaft can not "wag" without some form of fletching on the arrow. Bare shafts will nock plane to the right or to the left.
for a right handed, person increasing weight , if close to spine to begin with, will cause the shafts to nock plane left and hit low, right
If decreasing weight the shaft should plane nock should be right and they will hit left and high.
The weaker the shaft,ie: heavier point will increase the plane to the left.
The reverse is true to a point, depending on rest setup in relationship to center shot..
Then some shelf adjustment out will help a soft shaft, and if possible some removal or getting the  shaft closer to the riser will help on a stiff arrow. AGAIN all is for a right handed shooter..
Then your release will change the tears in paper.. so enjoy that ride..

[macksdad]

IMO you will drive yourself nuts paper tuning. I would do a search on google for " Old Adcock"  That is the best tuning info I have ever found. Paper tuning is tough, sometimes i shoot bullet holes and the next it will be tares. The Old Adcock has always worked well for me.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Frank,

The wagging you saw with bare shafts was probably just the paradox. Without fletching, the shaft can paradox for quite a distance. If your bare shafts and fletched arrows are grouping together at 18 yards, you're probably in good shape.

[FrankM]

I think you guys are right. I might be over-engineering this. I think I'll start over. I think I'll put the arrows back to what Stu's calc said and begin again. At 529 grains with my rest at - 1/16", they spine 66.2 bow and 66.7 arrow spine. Then when I went to 549 grains, my broadheads and field points grouped together eventhough the arrows nocked right a bit when leaving the bow (and the bareshaft wagged).

Come to think of it, the arrows nocked right in flight until I got up to 600 or so grains. At that point, the wagging bareshaft just flew nock right and didn't wag anymore. I'm not sure at this point why, or if it even matters.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Tuning is a funny thing. Sometimes you fall right into it, and other times it's quite a process. Either way, when you watch a spinning ball of fletching disappear through an animal, you'll know the time spent tuning was well worth it.

[ishoot4thrills]

What would I do, you ask?

First of all, I wouldn't paper tune for trad.

I, personally, like the method O.L. Adcock uses with the bareshaft grouping with fletched arrows and broadhead tipped arrows grouping with fletched arrows way.

Click this link and then click the "bow tuning" link at the top of that page:

 http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

Also, when using Stu's calc. it is VERY, VERY important that you enter the exact measurement for center-cut or it won't work at all.

[FrankM]

Good stuff guys. Let me explain the wagging I saw in the beginning that sent me down this path. The arrow nock would go left-right-left-right over and over again. /  \\   /   \\

And I mean a lot! It would move something like 4 inches to one side, then four inches to the other side. There was no circular movement, only an extreme left-right of the nock all the way to the target.

When my arrows weighed 549 grains, they bareshafted and broadhead tuned fine with Adcock's method (but had this wag). I'm going to recheck at that weight and stick with it, unless you guys think that wagging I explained above is significant.