Help me re-tune?

[Rusty Snuffers]

Just got my SBD string in the mail.  Thanks, Pierre!

Since replacing the string, the arrows that were shooting like darts with the 16-strand that came with the bow are now fishtailing slightly.  While it doesn't put the field points off, the broadheads are just enough out of whack that I'm off a few inches at 20yds+. It looks like I'm shooting consistently to the right of where I'm looking when I shoot the broadheads.   Is this something I can fix with brace height or nock placement?  I'd hate to replace the 6 arrows I've already fletched.      

Help a noob?

Thanks,
Rusty

[Blkbird]

If you have room try taking a lttle off your arrows or try a lighter point.

[xtrema312]

I would say a little off the arrow also if you have it to spare.  Try changing bace height first.  Maybe shim out the side plate a hair. larger scilencers could also help.

[Rusty Snuffers]

Thanks.  How much is a little?  They're currently right at 29" and I'm pretty sure my draw length is 27".

[A.S.]

Yep, if you are shooting a 6 or 8 strand strig now, you are underspined. Start with a bare shaft and cut 1/4" off at a time.

[Rusty Snuffers]

Thanks guys.  I'll give it a shot.

[Night Wing]

If it was me, I'd lower the brace height by 1/2-1 full twist of the bowstring. It beats cutting the arrow because once the arrow is cut, that's permanent.

If lowering the brace height doesn't solve your problem, then start cutting.

[Rusty Snuffers]

Thanks NW.  I just lost the last of my light for the day but I did try cutting one of the arrows down.  1/4 then another 1/4 on a bare shaft.  Very knock-left and very little difference from 29" to 28 3/4" to 28 1/2".  Knock left explains why I'm missing to the right with the broadheads.

I'll try the brace height tomorrow morning and report back.

Thanks again guys.
Rusty

[Jeff Mundy]

Don't be scared to cut a half inch or an inch off of those arrows. To go at a 1/4" at a time seems like overkill unless you're a world class shooter.

[RM81]

you can also try a lighter point

[Rusty Snuffers]

I'm a world-class fool... does that count?

I'll try again in the morning with brace height and arrow length to see how it goes.  There's so much to learn about tuning these darn things.  Strange how the string can make such a difference.  I guess it makes sense that a thinner string has less drag and is therefore faster but it's still amazing to me that it can have such an impact.  Then again, the SBD string sure seems to spit the arrows out faster.

As usual, lots of info here at TG.  Keep it coming, gang!

Rusty

[Rusty Snuffers]

Originally posted by RM81:
you can also try a lighter point

I'll likely switch the 125 field points to 100s tomorrow to see how that goes.  I really like the 125 snuffers I shoot and I've got a bunch of them.  Of course, if it means the difference between a good clean kill shot or a miss/cripple, I'll be sure to swap them out.  I'm just hoping to avoid doing that if at all possible.

Thanks again,
Rusty

[Night Wing]

If your arrows are showing weak and hitting to the right, keep the 125 grain point weight, but lower the brace height before you change to 100 grain points.

I fine tune my arrows by adjusting the brace height instead of changing point weight.

[Rusty Snuffers]

How low is it ok to go regarding brace height?  I'm currently showing 7 3/4" when the recommended height for the Samick Deermaster is 8+.  Is it still ok to drop it down?  The bow is pretty darn quiet so I don't think I'm getting any limb slap in the string...

[Night Wing]

My 66" Blacktail TDs came with a recommended brace height of 7 3/4"-8". Depending on point weight weight, I've had both of them down as low as 7 1/4" and as high as 8 3/8". It didn't hurt my bows and with a pair of yarn wool puffs, they were quiet too upon arrow release.

Just try it. I don't think a half to one full twist is going to radically reduce your brace height.

[ishoot4thrills]

If it was me, I would heed the advice of xtrema312, except for cutting the arrows off. I always experiment with the side plate thickness, brace height adjustment, or string silencer size and cut arrows as the very last option. The side plate thickness adjustment has the most affect and is the simplest way to change how the stiffness of an arrow acts with a bow. It's how I am able to use the same arrows over and over again when I trade bows.

[Rusty Snuffers]

Here's what my rest looks like now.  Just a piece of self-stick velcro in front of the Flipper.  Should I try sneaking a bit of something behind the velcro?  I'm going to try the brace height first since that's a quick and easy fix.

 

[ishoot4thrills]

Yes, I would try putting a short piece of toothpick or wooden match vertically behind the velcro. If that's too thick, then reduce the thickness of the toothpick or match and try it again. It shouldn't take too many tries before you get it right.

[Bowmania]

Can't believe no one asked if you were R or L handed.  Put half a stick match behind your strike plate.

Bowmania

[Rusty Snuffers]

I shoot RH.  I dropped the brace height one turn and bumped out with a little piece of wire behind the strike plate.  Bare shaft shows a very small change but it's still a good bit nock-left.  Going to keep playing with the two and see how it goes.

Rusty