what glue for Reparrows

[Ari]

I use hot melt glue for my points but can't see it working to great on reparrows and I doubt Duco is strong enough, so what glue do you use for your reparrows?

God bless,
Ari

[Stone Knife]

Just Elmer's  carpenters wood glue.

What Stone Knife said.

[jsweka]

Titebond II or III

Points will pull off before the Reparrow will pull off. (Found that one out at shoot today.)

[Looper]

I use titebond III and it works like a charm.  Breaks happen anywhere but the glue joint.

[Eric Krewson]

My wife has a habit of shooting at rocks when we go to a tournament. I make her arrows all dolled up, dipped, crested and fletched with wild turkey feathers. Lots of work to make one and reparrows have been great.

At first she didn't want to shoot "repaired arrows" but soon found a little more weight forward made these arrows her best shooters.

I use what ever wood glue I have except gorilla glue(don't like the foaming).

I am down to one or two 5/16" so I better order some more.

[SCATTERSHOT]

Titebond. Be careful not to starve the glue joint.

[ron w]

Tite-Bond II, works great!

[Ari]

I just made up my first batch of reparrows using some PVA wood glue and then sealing with wipe on poly a bit under 24 hour after gluing. I had my first 2 break at the joint, not sure if it was the glue or because I might of rushed the dry time a little.

Has any one got any advice, do you clamp the reparrow on while drying? should I just get some tite-bond or will any PVA work(if giving a longer dry time?)?

Thanks

[atatarpm]

I don't know about arrows but building furniture and cabnets we use the best fitting joints possable and leave the clamps on for 24 hours. So far I have never lost a glue joint and some of them are over thirty years old and holding 200lbs.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Any good wood glue will work. I like and only use Titebond I, II, III

[frank bullitt]

Jim sent me some samples of cedar last year, and other tradgangers, for testing. He reccomends wood glue in his info pamplet.

What I did first, was swab the inside of the female section sent, with acetone to clean. We live in a dirty world, and need to clean before glue-up of any material!

After a time for the acetone to evaporate, I applied glue to both surfaces, and then connected each. Then turn the 2, and pull apart, to make sure there was a even glue applied!

Now put together again, aline the grain, clean any excess, and wrap with a piece of elect. tape to hold.
Let dry overnight, and last, I applied super glue to the edge of where the 2 meet.

Work and hold great!

[dink]

i agree with the titebond 111 i use that on my footed shafts

[Eric Krewson]

When I put them on I roll the arrow on an old aluminum arrow straightener to make sure the reparrow runs true with no wobble. If I detect less than perfect alignment I rotate the reparrow a little and recheck until everything is perfect.

[Bjorn]

Stay away from the foaming expandable glues they will literally force the pieces apart. Gorilla makes one and so does Titebond for that matter. Don't force the pieces together so that all the glue seeps out, and there is no need to clamp.

[Jim now in Kentucky]

Just an observation here. The socket and shaft both being tapered, the glue doesn't become a hydraulic barrier to the shaft as it would with a cylindrical shaft going into a cylindrical hole.

As I say in the instructions, just put a couple of drops of Titebond II in the Reparrow, gently push the tapered shaft in while rotating it slightly, and excess glue will come out all around the joint as it goes together.

After a few seconds of light pressure, the parts will be tight enough that no tape or other means is necessary to hold the parts together.

Titebond or other white or yellow carpenter's glue is the way to go.

Jim