Need Help Back Quiver's

[Scott Teaschner]

Hey I need some help. I am not a back qiuver shooter but I want to build some to add to my line of archery gear. I am not looking for a pattern for I will make my own. I just want some feed back as to what you guys like and dislike about the ones you use. I am always trying to refine what I build and some times what is avalible is not necasarly what works well. Give me good detaials so when I lay my pattern out I can make adjustments. For example adjustability of the strap, how it attatches to the body, size anything specific that you think would better the product. Thanks for the help Scott.

[FerretWYO]

Looking forward to seeing what your design holds.

[Marvin M.]

I like a one inch strap with a buckle for adjustment.  Make sure you get the angle that the strap attaches correct -- it will buckle and bend if the angle is not correct and can make the quiver hang badly.

A lot of guys like a two-strap quiver, but I haven't found a good way to make this work for me (yet).  I like the concept, but just haven't found a way to make it work the way I want.

I like a divider at the top to separate arrows.  I just tied in a piece of rivercane to make separate compartments for two different "classes" of arrows.  On another quiver, I punched holes at the top to use as places to tie in arrows.  Keeps them quiet until needed and tied with a slip knot they are easy to get loose.

Line the top with fleece or fur.  Helps keep down rattling.

[Scott Teaschner]

Pictures would be good also to help me understand better.

[kbaamigo]

Mine is very simple with about 6" x 3" ovals at top and bottom. It is 24" long to go up to the fletch of my 30" arrows as I do not like much shaft sticking out to hang up. The strap is 1 1/4" and has several double holes punched and a piece of lace to run thru and tie for adjustment. The bottom piece is made of bear hide with the fur inside. The main compartment is soft enough to collapse against the back to keep shafts from rattling. A piece of lace across the top divides the blunts and broadheads.

[Scott Teaschner]

Had to bring this to the top come on you back quiver guys you got to have some good ideas!

[Purehunter]

Hi ya Scott.  There was an article in TBM last issue (June'ish)? on back quivers for hunting and it gave some excellent pointers on design and use. Marvin M. has some good points and so does kbaamigo.

What I don't like with my current back quiver for hunting is the stiffness of the leather and large size. It'll hold two dozen arrows. A dozen maybe? The strap (single) is laced so its a pain to adjust and its UNCOMFORTABLE! The buckle idea is a good one. Came with no padding in the bottom for protection (quick fix though). Its good for 3D shoots and some stumping until it rubs me raw.

What I'd like to see based on my limited experience and reading the TBM article,

-One strap with buckle or other quick adjustment device
-outside pocket for small stuff with a secure fastening system
-pliable leather for the body but the opening stiff enough it doesn't collapes
-a divider (lace across the top is good) to keep my stumping arrows from my target or broadheads
-reasonably light with good ergonomics for the way it fits on the body
-did I mention comfortable without being bulky?
-and tough enough to scare timid folk.

Having some of what you already make, I have no doubt it will be comfortable, durable and built with lasting quality. I may not hunt multi day backcounty backpacking hunts with it but that's what I'd like to see...until more good ideas show up.  

   :D  

Craig

PS
Available for product testing and evaluation.....haha

[Purehunter]

Can I add one more to the wish list?
One of your knife sheaths attached to the strap would be REALLY cool.......handy too.

[Bud B.]

Scott,

I just posted a thread about three point quivers or three strap quivers. I personally don't like a single strap to contact quiver. Too loose for my taste.


Had I wanted to spend more time on mine I would have liked a compartment for small storage. A rectangular storage area with flap and button or antler attached with a lace wrap to keep it secured. No zippers or velcro.

I like tooled leather but don't have the patience to do it. I have all the tools, just not the time.

I have found that 5/6oz leather works best for the right stiffness but pliable enough to hold arrow when formed to my back.

I posted photos of mine in the thread but unfortunately have not gotten alot of three point feedback. I used bronze plated quick snaps for attaching to the ring at the chest. The bottom of mine is four layers of 5/6oz glued together for durability. The bottom most layer is slightly larger than the other three to allow it to fit into the opening with the fourth layer acting as a sheld for the quiver body to rest against. I folded the body rather than looped it. Sewing down the 23" length was going to be too much so I went with the open stitch. This gave a teardrop opening rather than an oval opening. I think mine is the right size for hunting. THe body is 23" long. It'll hold about a doz arrows easaily but not much more than that. I haven't punched any holes yet for a divider. The bottom straps are attached with artificial sinew and brass Chicago screws. Goat glue was used in the screws to keep them together.

It ain't perfet, but it's the closest I have come to a quiver that works for me for hunting.

If the bottom design were a little different then it could allow for single strap or double strap/3 pt contact.

Preliminary use indicates the arrows will be totally immobile while hunting.

Let me now what you think.

Bud

  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=105514;p=1#000002

[Scott Teaschner]

Thanks for the help so far! Keep it coming pictures are good. Bud quiver does not look bad. The only thing I would say and I never use a back quiver so its just me. The hardware (snaps and buckles) are going to make noise every time something touches them. I even hate sling swiveles on rifles. I usally put electrick tape over them to keep noise down. What about a buckles with a sleave? You would have the ease off adjustment instead of laceing but the sleave would slide up and down to cover the buckle. What about heavy duty button snaps for the extra straps instead of big spring or trigger snaps. Would be less weight and no noise. Bud did you oil and seal your Quiver yet. If not let me know and I will give you some tips. You really did a nice job on it.
Scott

[Marvin M.]

Bud,

Good job on that quiver.  Saw the thread when you started it but lost it and didn't get to see the pictures.

That three point looks good.  I've been trying to figure out something that will work for that but no success so far.  Is that one working well for you?

Mine that I like best is also a tear drop type quiver.  I got a pattern from Tandy Leather that used that.  I'm still tweaking it and plan to make another some day with new ideas that I have.

Scott,

I'll volunteer to be a tester also.    :D  

There was a good article in the old Instinctive Archer that had a lot of points about using a back quiver that I got some good ideas from.  I'll see if I can find it and send you a copy.

The only hunting I've used my back quiver for is small game so far.  I really like it for 3D, squirrels and rabbits.  I'm still tweaking before I'll be fully comfortable with deer or other large animals.

Good points above though.  I wouldn't want a quiver without a pocket on it.  As rferred to above, my favorite one so far (from the Tandy pattern) has a zippered pocket.  Also, I added four "D" rings to the back to tie on a jacket or other gear if the weather heats up.

In my future plans is the possibility of adding an external spot to put a judo or bird tip equipped arrow that could be accessed from the side instead of over the top.  What I've thought about is attaching a couple of arrow clips that the arrow would slip into and retreiving that arrow would be a matter of reaching around the hip and pulling it out.  It would ride close to the quiver and behind your back so there would be minimal chance of it catching on brush.

I'll see if I can find that article and get it to you.

[joekeith]

Bud B.  good lookin' quiver.  Why do you prefer the tear drop shape?  I like the looks, alot, it just seems like it bunches all the arrows to one side.  Seems like wasted space on the other.  Just askin', not criticizin'.  I do like the looks of it best but have been thinkin' of makin' one more like what Byron wears, ya'know a big oval.  Just seems like he can carry a shi? load of arrows in his.

I just cut up my last piece of leather yesterday for a quiver.  I could go either way with the pattern right now.  Talk me into the teardrop shape instead of the big oval if you would.  I'm teeterin' on the fence between the two.  Like the looks of yours best, just seems like the other would be more vesatile.  Talk to me......

[Marvin M.]

joekeith,

I don't know about Bud but I like the way mine hangs better than the oval one's I've tried.  Yes, you lose some space, but you'd be surprised how many arrows you can squeeze in there.  I've got my quiver with me here at work (I shoot on my lunch hour).  I'll see if I can get one of the office ladies to take a picture and I'll post that on here.  I've got the single strap, so mines not as nice as Bud's, but it is now my favorite.

[Bud B.]

Fit snugly to the body the snaps stay tight so noise is not an issue. I like the snaps at the chest to allow for qiuick release in the event you need to crawl or remove it for anything such as a call of nature......

[Bud B.]

I reall don't think you lose any space. If the quiver leans to one side the arrows will go that way naturally. The teardrop is easier to sew with the tight stitches I did. I made one before that was oval and liked to never got it sewn due to its size vs. my hand size.

Once I get a divider in there I'll show you how it'll divide the arrows for hunting.

Haven't treated it yet.

[Scott Teaschner]

Bud if its a veg tan which it looks to be pure olive oil is the very best period. You then need to seal it. Give me a call and I can go over it better with you but you will absolutly love the results.
Scott

[Scott Teaschner]

Oh more pics I now have to look at this oval design. I am really learning alot. Again I see there will have to be a few models to please every one.

[Marvin M.]

Scott,

Here's a few pictures of mine.  I apologize -- I am not even close to being a professional.

 

That pic shows the back of it.  You can see the D Rings that I added to lash gear on and the pocket.  I wouldn't recommend that style of pocket, but it works for me.  You can also see some of the tear drop shape and how it will lay flat on your back.  They don't show up real well, but you can also see the holes I punched around the top rim for lashing down arrows.

 

Couldn't help myself on this one.  Distant view of it with my Pearson recurve in there for size reference.  

 

That's a top view.  I doubt if you can count them, but I have fifteen arrows in that left side!!!  Having it compressed over there doesn't really limit the capacity a lot.  Also, if you squeeze them in there, they won't rattle.  Note the thongs in there for dividers.  Having holes punched lets you adjust the size and location of the "chambers" that you will use for storing your second string, backup, bloodied, stumping, etc...... arrows.  The quiver has nineteen arrows in it and there is still room to spare.

 

On this final pic, I turned it around so you can see the strap.  As I mentioned earlier, I like a one inch strap.  It's plenty wide and just feels good for me.  Note the D-ring and clip attachement for the strap.  Having the clip makes if very versatile to get one/off and I have in the past unclipped it so that I could hang it on the side rail of my tree stand -- you can't do that with a laced strap.

I have to say that I'm intrigued by Bud's tripple point set-up.  As I said earlier I've been trying to figure out how to do that to keep this one from slipping down to the side.  His method just might work for that.  I'll let him expound on that if he will.

I'm loving this thread.

Marvin

[Bud B.]

All I can say is that the second strap that creates a third (really fourth) contact point keeps things locked down. Both the quiver and the arrows. But, the leather needs to be formed to the back. Thicker leather might need some break-in time.

[Scott Teaschner]

I went and looked at the Ferguson oval I did not understand at first what you guys where refering to but it is the bottom shape and it dictates the overal shape. Keep learning me guys.