Need Help Back Quiver's

[Marvin M.]

Bud,

Would there be any benefit to attaching the two bottom straps to different spots?  All yours meet in the same place and all of them I have seen do that also.  Would it be better if they attached at different spots -- in other words, instead of an upside down "Y" maybe it would look like an upside down"y".  Not symetrical.

I have zero experience with a three point and have actually never even seen one in person.  I know that you can get a "converter kit", for lack of a better term, at Three Rivers that will attach to the current strap.  I doubt if they would be symetrical when used.

[Marvin M.]

Scott,

It's not part of the quiver, but I would highly recommend that you have "booties" for your broadheads to protect them in the quiver.  Unless you have a foam bottom to stick them in, they can rub together and nick or dull your heads.

I can't take credit for an original idea, but if you have three, four, or six booties with heads in them and not tied on the arrow, then run a string or strap of some kind through a hold in them to tie them all together, when you pull one arrow out, the others will stay in their booties due to being tied together and having the weight of the other arrows on them.  Does that make sense?

I'm jsut brainstorming here and throwing out ideas.  It looks like just the three of us participating here.

Marvin

[Scott Teaschner]

Marvin,
I think I understand what you are saying and i have made booties. But instead of linking them together would it be easier to put in foam at the bottom. Is there a disadvatage to foam?
Scott

[Bud B.]

I asked Scott if I could also post photos.

Here is the quiver being worn. Forgive the harsh looking model.

But if you'll note, even bent over the arrows stayed snuggly in the quiver absolutely silently. There are 16 arrows in there with room for several more. even with only 6 in there they are snug and still.

No divider yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The top inside is double layered for rigidity and to keep the top open for arrows to be placed back in after shooting.

 

[Bud B.]

Originally posted by Marvin M.:
Bud,

Would there be any benefit to attaching the two bottom straps to different spots?  All yours meet in the same place and all of them I have seen do that also.  Would it be better if they attached at different spots -- in other words, instead of an upside down "Y" maybe it would look like an upside down"y".  Not symetrical.

I have zero experience with a three point and have actually never even seen one in person.  I know that you can get a "converter kit", for lack of a better term, at Three Rivers that will attach to the current strap.  I doubt if they would be symetrical when used.

Based on my limited knowledge and experience I would think the bottom contacts need to be in relation to each other symmetrically to allow for the snug fit. So yes, I think they should be at the same level and exact opposite of one another to get an even pull on the quiver sides.

If I were wearing more clothing, like in a hunting situation, the straps would be adjusted out to allow for good fit but taught contact for no snap rattle.

A quick release of one snap would allow for quick repositioning for navigating woods and brush.

[Scott Teaschner]

ttt

[Marvin M.]

Thanks guys.

Scott,  

My only concern with foam is to make sure that the arrow doesn't work it's way out.  You could tie booties on and pull them out with the bootie on there but if you are trying to get off a quick second shot it would take extra time to get the bootie off once it's out of the quiver.

Bud,

Thanks for the additional pics and explanation.  What you are saying makes sense.  I'm thinking that I might want to make all three straps adjustable to make it easier to fit, especially if you are making one for sale (Scott).  That way anyone could adjust it to fit themselves no matter what their body shape.

Good stuff guys.  I'm taking notes.

Marvin

[Adam Keiper]

I like big Hill style quivers...high capacity, rectangular-ish, with rounded corners.  The leather needs to be just right.  Thick enough to be rigid so the quiver doesn't fold and slide under your armpit, but thin enough to draw close and hug your arrows so you don't dump them when you bend over.  I don't know the oz.-weight.  Latigo is a little too thick.  Suede is way too soft.  I also like them to be all leather, with a simple leather lace that can be adjusted with a couple of overhand knots.  I don't like metal fasteners.  A 1-3/4" wide strap is nice for comfort.  A big pocket is useful, too, for a water bottle, camera, or whatever else I'm carrying.  A lace divider in the mouth is nice to keep arrows separate and to hold the mouth shape.  A fold of leather at the top also helps keep the mouth open.  An outer band around the bottom and a heavy latigo insert "in" the bottom is a plus to offer broadhead protection.  Also, importantly, I like them deep enough so the leading edge of my fletchings set just below the quiver mouth.  That allows the fletchings to ride lower on your back, which makes it easier to grab/replace arrows, and keeps them from snagging on vegetation.  I see alot of back quivers that have almost half the arrow sticking above the quiver.       :confused:       If feasible, offering/stating a couple of different depths would be ideal.  Last, I prefer quivers that look fairly simple and rustic.  I can appreciate fancy toolwork, snakeskin adornment, etc, but that's not me.  Enough rambling.  Here's one I made that suits me.  (I used all the irregular edge leather for trim on this one.)
   

[Bud B.]

Scott,

If you're looking to make quivers you might need several desings. The Plains Quiver guys haven't chimed in yet.

I've been eyeballing your armguards in the classifieds for months now. After they're gone I'll kick myself for not jumping on it.  Some folks don't know how much time goes into a basket weave pattern on leather. I've tried it before and I have never gotten good results. Yours look perfect. I can only imagne how good your quivers will look. And they'll be worth every penny.

As for the quiver design, I toyed around with a second layer of leather on the inside of the bottom to make a sort of "sleeve" for two blade boadheads so that carefully placed they would sit in the quiver secured and blades protected from the various other arrows carried while hunting. Not sure if that makes sense to you, but, I plan on making that part off my next quiver design.

[Scott Teaschner]

I really dont understand the sleeve. I also dont see how the booties attached to one another would work either. I dont think it would come out easy enough and you would have a train of arrows following the one your drawing out. Unless I am not understasnding that type of system. Also it seems you would have to take your quiver of evry time you drew a arrow with a broadhead to put it back in. If you put the same type of foam they use in bow quivers wouldnt that work just as good or better? Adam and Bud you are correct there will probably have to be several models. This info is great because if I just started to build one I would be doing it blind for I dont use one. I personally like Rod Jekins design althouh I have never tried it it seems very well suited for hunting. I think I am going to try to build one like his out of leather.Bud the only arm guard I wont be offering is the that unlined one there gone now. I had some imported leather that I was told was as good as Herman Oak its not so I would not use it in my deluxe arm guard. I am trying to grow my buisness not just for fancy tooling but in the quality in the craftmanship. In other words I want my product even though it may be more money than someone elses will be a better value because of haveing all the requirments met. That being said I will try to list those qualities. Fit and function it has to work and not just because there is nothing else to use. Finish no mater if tooled or not it looks pleasing to the eye and weather and use do not degrade it. Construction it takes longer to build things well but they last longer work better and if they do break are usally reparable. I could go on but you get the idea. As with every thing I am sure I will be refineing things as I go along. I am going to always try to offer a standard product in my line not that it will be a cheap product it just might be less complicated like minus fancy tooling. Things are really picking up for me people are seeing the diffrence. I will be at Denton Hill and I am going to be putting in a lot of hours but I should have a lot of product for people to see. I cant wait to get there it looks like fun and I will get to meet all you guys. Keep the info coming you can be guaranted I am listening.

[Marvin M.]

Scott,

You are right in that if you take a broadhead out using the booties you would have to either take off the quiver, or pull out all the broadhead arrows to bet to the bootie to put that one back in.  

I would get around that by using one of the final stalkers attached to the bow.  As I stated before, I haven't used a back quiver for big game yet, so anytime I have it in the woods it's with blunts or judo's.

My objection to the foam would be basically the same thing though.  If you just put the arrow back over your shoulder and slide it back into the foam you would need to see where it was going in to keep from slicing up your foam and having it lose it's gripping ability.

I guess there isn't an easy answer to that.  I've read that some people fill the bottom of their quiver with something loose like rice or wheat.  But you'd need to be careful with rain if you were doing that.

[David Mitchell]

Guys, it's pretty simple, if a quiver is made of the proper weight leather to mold to your back, is angled properly so the arrows lay over right, you don't need booties, oats, or any other filler in the bottom. If you have to have all that stuff to make it work, it was wrong to begin with!

[dragonheart]

The quiver needs to "lay together".  The quiver will conform to your back and will hold the arrows.  I place a piece of carpet in the bottom of mine.  I did put a thin bottom in mine made from hard plastic, but you could use thick leather.  The strap need to be loose enough so that the arrows are not right by your ear.  This is a total pain in the woods if the quiver positions the arrows to straight up and down.  For RH archer the need to be in the back right, off the shoulder at an angle.  This kicks the fletch somewhat back, not right on you and is much easier to handle in the brush.  If the fletch is positioned straight up, they run into everything!  If the strap is loose you can easily slide the quiver, by grabbin it with the left hand at the bottom, and bringing it around to your side then back to the the ready position.  This is for a Hill style back quiver.  Other styles are out there and have their advantages, but these can be used quite effectively in the bush.  the quiver does have to fit.

[Bud B.]

I read your article David. That's what prompted me to build the quiver shown in my photos, but, I prefer the extra strap. I am not flexible and do not like the elbow bump method to retrieve arrows. I'm a police officer. When I reach for my handcuffs, ammo pouch, mace, or whatever is and has been on my belt for the last 21 years I need it to be where my muscle memory knows it should be. With my arrows I need them to be about 6" from my left ear. My quiver, like my utility belt, needs to be secure and where my reach will allow.

Your article was a good one. My quiver at an unbroken-in state already holds the arrows securely. Once I treat the raw leather and start using it I hope it continues to reassure me that I made the right quiver for me. So far it has.

If Scott introduces a similar quiver I'll be paying attention. His leather work is masterful. A quiver in the right leather, as in Herman Oak, will be a work of art from his hands.

Scott,

If you make a lefty quiver I'll be glad to be a guinea pig.

[Clint B.]

I like a traditional style back quiver with a single shoulder strap, BUT I've never had good flexiblity in my joints (I'm the opposite of being double-jointed). As a result, it's hard for me to grab or replace an arrow if the top of the quiver is positioned too far outside of my right shoulder (I'm a right-handed shooter). Therefore, I prefer a quiver with the shoulder strap attached to the top center of the quiver rather than attached to the top left side as in a classic Hill-style quiver. The center attached strap positions the arrows closer to the center of my back and makes them easier for me to reach.

[Shakes.602]

WOW......FOLKS!!!   :eek:    I am Impressed with  ALL  of Your Talents!!    
 One thing is For Sure: a Persons Back-Quiver  IS  as Personal as Their Glove Or Tab!! All A Matter Of Prefference, and  NONE  of them are Wrong!!    
   GREAT JOB TO ALL!!!      

[Ben Maher]

What Dave Mitchell said !

[David Mitchell]

Clint B. that is my preference for strap placement at the top as well. Actually, one of my best fitting quivers is a cheapy made by John Hale that he used to sell at Cloverdale and a few other shoots for around $40--the strap was dead center top and bottom and the same quiver worked for either left or right handers.

[Nate Steen .]

Bud,

not knocking your fine craftsmanship, talents, or design.....but if I had to use a quiver like yours with the straps holding it down tight, I'd never be able to walk through the woods without hanging up arrows,  I'd have more moves than a gypsy belly dancer in a bamboo thicket    .....maybe you are just using yours for target shooting.  There is a reason why the single strap quiver has been around so long for hunting...it's highly manueverable in the hunting woods.   as David so aptly wrote in his TBM article.

[Bud B.]

I'm not knocking Dave or his article. I can use it for hunting and intend to. The snaps release easily for what you're saying. Then when upright just snap it back. I shot some today trying to see how I could maneuver with it. I did everything except jumping jacks and it held the arrows securely. I did jump up and down and move side to side quickly. The arrows never made a sound and never shifted. I like the extra security to keep my bow hand ready instead of using my bow hand elbow to bump the quiver to be able to reach the arrows. As I said, my flexibility has never been great. I like stalking open woods. I don't anticipate any problems with it hanging up but I do expect it'll happen occasionally.

If I came off as disrespectful it was not intended towards Dave or anyone. Dave himself wrote that there is really no perfect quiver for all occasions. I prefer mine to balance more on constant stability and will accept the shortcomings if they creep up. I expect that if game approached as I was bent over crawling or squatting through trees and shrubs I couldn't get a good shot off anyway.

Scott asked for input. And I do look forward to his design.

Shakes is spot on.