3/8" wooden dowels for ARROWS?

[Mainehunt]

I am new to trad bows/arrows. So please bear with me.

I bought some 3/8" diameter POPLAR and OAK dowels to make some arrows. I was very careful when choosing and made sure that the ones I chose have the grain running the complete length of the shaft.

My bow is a 45# @ 28", (I draw to 29")

I just fletched up one of the poplar shafts, I cut a self nock which I reinforced with thread wrap and glue. I made a blunt out of a 44 mag brass.

My question is; Is 3/8" strong enough/stiff enough for around 48 pound long bow?

Anybody use this diameter?

Kev
<><

[Hot Hap]

I think you are way over spined for a 45# bow. Hap

[Mainehunt]

Originally posted by Hot Hap:
I think you are way over spined for a 45# bow. Hap

Really? Because as I flex the shaft with my hands and then flex a carbon shaft, it feels weak. (BUT like I said, I know NOTHING about wooden shafts)

I am nervous about breaking a shaft when shooting.

Kev
<><

[Mainehunt]

Anyone else?

[Green]

At the cost of dowels....heck, shoot 'em at rocks.  If you break 'em you just get to make more....and have a blast doing it.  If you can find someone close to you with a spine tester get them to check each one....for the sake of accuracy you'll want to shoot arrows that are within 1-5# of each other.  This person will also be able to explain more about arrow building and spine to you.

[huey]

Hot Hap gave you the answer. Most likley over spined.

[bosteldr]

I have used 3/8 inch dowels for my squirrle arrows and I shoot a 60 lbs bow. Cheap hard hittng and fly straight for me on short shots.  Long shot because of their weight the arrow hit low over 20 yds.

[deaddoc4444]

I shoot   a lot of 3/8 Poplar dowells for arrows .  MOST  are  WAY heavy ( Spine )   for bows of that draw weight .    If you do not have a spine tester   try ot find  some one in your area with one and test them .
  The ones I buy  spine any where  from 55 to  90 lbs in spine weight .
 I then taper my shafts  down to 11/32  and taper   a 16 inch length ( most tapered arrows  have  a 10 inch taper ) This takes enough  material off the arrow shaft that it does lower the spine  and I get  CLOSER  to my correct spine   but not usually right on .
 Once I have them tapered I  spine them and more important I group them for actual weight.  I have   begun to put   poplar arrows into two categories  of spine    heavy and light-er .
   The bow i'm shooting regularly right now is about the same weight  for my draw length  about 48/49 lbs.    The arrows work fine .  I use selfnocks on most  but   have used plastic nocks in the past with no problem .   IM in the middle of making a group of arrows now from the last batch of dowells purchased  20 dowells yielded 11 in the heavy category and 9 in the light    I'll use the 9 for  my bow described above. The actual spine is about  between  55 and 70

[2treks]

3/8 poplar dowels with self nocks. left full length and shot from a 55# and a 70# english longbow with good results. I draw 30". You can adjust shaft length and tip weight as needed. Make sure the shaft is sound and have fun.
CTT

[Art B]

I've got a couple 3/8" poplar dowels (greenish brown color) that spine out at 40#. So yes, you can have some lighter weight dowels in your possesion. But wood arrows or any other type arrow don't just break from shooting them. They are first damaged and THEN shot. I think you get the picture. Poplar is one of the tougher woods for arrows you'll find. Pretty much all I shoot.......Art

[SCATTERSHOT]

I spined a bunch of those as a test a couple of years back. I found that the 3/8" poplar dowels ran about mid 80s for spine, with a couple going into the 100-110 range. If you leave them full length with a heavy point, and/or sand the middle they can be made to work.

BTW, the 5/16" dowels spine in the mid 40s, and would probably work better for you.

[2treks]

Post script, I have no idea what mine spine at. They are mill run dowels that a fine mate from Canada put together for me and he said that he never spines them and they always seem to work. He only makes arrows like the ones pictured and I am sure the big fletch helps with arrow flight.
CTT

[John Scifres]

You can taper and sand them to get to a more closely matched spine.

[Don Stokes]

I can't imagine shooting wood without a spine tester. That's the only way you can ever achieve the best accuracy and broadhead flight. They may cost a few bucks, but every penny is worth it.

[Pointer]

I tried the same thing a few years back...poplar dowels were 70-80lbs...oak were over 90..I'm sure it varies and there's not much harm in being overspined...they shot ok for me

[frank bullitt]

Don Stokes< I understand your thinking, sir. But Kev did say he put a blunt on it, not a BH!

I have been playing with hardware, ramin dowels for over 20 years! They are great for training the eye, when it comes to hand tapering, ie nock end, barrel, self nocks, and other fletching techniques!

I have been carrying a couple in the quiver for same period, and have shot a spit load of squirrels, coons and such.

If you fletch a little on the high side, spine is not as critical! I have had some arrows, that "traveled the whole season journey", just fine!

Ramin is almost nonexistent in the stores these days! Popular and birch seem to be the norm.
Have at it, I say!  Good shootin!

[Mainehunt]

I appreciate the replies and help.

I only have the one finished arrow, 31" long and it shot consistent for me, but like one of you said, past 20 yards it drops fast. Don't know how much it weighs, my scale only goes to 500 grains.

Kev
<><

[Tique]

Do a search on Nutters; you'll find all kinds of info.

[Rob DiStefano]

having lots of arrow spine isn't an issue - after all, a 3/8" shaft will sit lots further outside the arrow plate than a 5/16" or less diameter carbon.  if you aim the arrow and have a healthy amount of fletching, a fat arrow will fly purty nicely.  

i make up woodies on the cheap using 5/16" or 3/8" dowels (any kind) that i heat and pressure burnish straighten before fletching with leftover feather remnants (or freebie goose feathers) that i scissor cut to shape, plastic nocks (or self nocks quickly cut with a band or jig saw) and steel field points (or .32 or .38 brass case "points" that are staked on and preloaded with a flattened 50-100 grain round sinker lead).  no finish on the arrow, they don't last long enuf.        

 

 

[Don Stokes]

Frank, I maintain that if you want the ultimate in accuracy out of your woods, a spine tester is a must, no matter what point is on the arrow. This is a hunting site, and I always relate things to broadheads. Arrows matched to the bow and to each other will ALWAYS be more accurate. Some of y'all might be surprised at how good you can get when your arrows are properly matched. Success can be a matter of inches.

If you think you're OK shooting blunts or field points, you might get an unpleasant surprise if you put big broadheads on those same arrows. I know, because it happened to me!