what backing would be best?

[Bob Barnes]

I had an Ipe stave tillered to 58@28"...it was made snaky using Ferret's pattern but it was backed with glass...  :(   The tiller looked about as good I get...but I wanted to do it right...and I didn't want glass on my bow...so I just sanded the glass backing off and no I have a nice pre-tillered ipe bow that needs backing which will hold together after being cut to fit the snaky belly wood. I'm thinking hickory backing to put the weight back on and rawhide over that to hold the hickory together...?  
Any ideas or suggestions..?
Bob

[Pat B]

Bob, A good hickory backing will do the trick. You shouldn't need the rawhide over the hickory unless you just wanted it. A pair of snake skins would set it off nicely.    Pat

[Bob Barnes]

I would normally agree if it wasn't for the fact that I will be cutting the backing into a snaky pattern to match the squiggly belly...     ...so I would rather overbuild it.  I've never used rawhide but thought it would be the best way to hold the edges that have been "violated"..?  
thanks much.
Bob
Pat- I hope I don't sound like I don't appreciate the advice...I do.  Thanks again.

[mmgrode]

I would say the hickory would work grand. And for the extra insurance, the rawhide wouldn't hurt.  However, you will need to make sure you don't get much runoff on the hickory grain otherwise you might get an unpleasant addition to your face     when the bow explodes into smitherines!  Another good way to go(if you're patient enough and have the materials available) would be to sinew back it. That would add some weight and hold it together well. Good building! Cheers, Matt

[Bob Barnes]

thanks Matt...I will glue the hickory on this morning...while it's drying I can think about what to do next.  I know whatever I do, it will have one of Mike Yancey's bull snake skins for a final backing.
Bob

[bayoulongbowman]

sounds like a plan to me!! Good luck Bob!  

[Pat B]

Bob, Be sure to make your tips thick but narrow. With the added hickory, rawhide, snake skins and glue your tips will be heavier than normal and that will not only slow the limb recovery during the shot but will increase the potential for more hand shock. By keeping your tips narrow but deep, you eliminate a lot of physical weight without decreasing the tip strength.    Pat

[Bob Barnes]

thanks Pat.
Bob

[Gene Roberts]

I've never made a bow but i've seen a bow with sturgen skin backing.It looked great,but i now nothing about making bows,i just shoot them   .
i've seen a bamboo backed bow it looked good too.

[Bob Barnes]

well...the 1/4" hickory backing is glued on and roughed out...I didn't want to put too much strain on the glue tonight, but I can tell it sure is heavier with the thick hickory backing than it was with the glass...I will have to take the backing down quite a bit I think...
I have never used rawhide but have some very good calfskin to use...it's 1 1/2" wide...when wet will it form to the curves like snakeskin does?
thanks.
Bob

[the Ferret]

Bob on my perfect snake 1 bow the hickory split taking the osage belly with it (which is why perfect snake 2 was osage with rawhide). I have about a 50% sucess rate with hickory backings. Make sure you put the rawhide over the hickory before bending too far.

There are like 47 edge violations with that pattern. Insurance is a good idea.

[Cody Cantrell]

Bob to help save on weight why dont you apply Python skins to it and get your snake skin and raw hide done in the same step?  Best of luck.

Cody

P.S. Are you going to bring it to mojam?

[Bob Barnes]

thanks guys...so, I need to thin the hickory to maybe an 1/8" uniformly since tiller was good before the glass came off...and then back it...maybe with boa or python...which I actually have 1 of each...so I maybe could split one to have enough for both limbs...
It has been suggested that I also carry the backing over the sides of the back and down to the belly...?
thanks again...it will be at mojam if it holds together.
Bob