What would make the Perfect bow quiver for you?

[Gen273]

I am in the process on designing and building a quiver that will be mounted to the bow, but will be easy and quick to take on and off. I have always felt that the on the bow quiver was the weak link in Trad archery. I have spent a fortune trying to find what would be perfect for me; but it does not exist. So instead of spending more money on what is already out there, I am going to try to build a better bow quiver.  
I would like to know what you guys see as the short comings of most bow quivers that are on the market. Also what features would you like to see on a quiver?
Lastly what do you think is spot on about the currently available bow quivers?
Thanks for your input! If I am going to go the trouble to build one I want to get it as close to perfect as possible as far as features go.

[dragonheart]

If you want to do something to improve bow quiver design, you need to change the weight distribution.  Get the quiver out in frot of the bow.  Years ago a man named Bob Jenson, never met him, just saw the pictures in bowhunter mag, had a quiver with extensions to put it out in front of the bow.  Some people don't like all of the arrows out in front.  For me the bow the longbow shot better with the arrows forward and in better than any other bow quiver.  I modified and built a small 3 arrow last year out of a 3 arrow Kwikkee.  I made extension adaptors, used GN straps, and moved the hood and bottom holder forward and in towards the bow. I have never liked bow quivers due to the weight too much on one side on a longbow.  Plus, they just look like poo-poo on a longbow.  With a heavier recurve, not a big deal, but still I like the weight forward and "into" the bow.  This one was close to what I wanted, but I have decided to just stick with the back quiver.

   

[T Lail]

I use an Eagle Flight and really see no need to improve on it....it is quality built,light, goes on and off very quickly and easily and does not effect bow performance......I have used many quivers over the years but Eagle Flight is MY answer.......good luck....  

[Night Wing]

Just food for thought.

If you're going to design a bow quiver, you might "also" want to consider designing a back and a side quiver.

I'm not a fan of bow quivers since I like the clean lines of a bow without a bow quiver attached to it. I also don't like the added weight of a bow quiver with a quiver full of arrows which is very noticeable with a take down recurve since take down recurves are heavier than one piece recurves which can be felt immediately and lastly, I don't like the way a bow quiver makes the bow feel "unbalanced" since the weight of the quiver and arrows is all on one side of the bow.

Speaking for myself, a GFA quiver is the closest thing to being the perfect quiver. Since I'm carrying it on my body; it feels light in weight, can carry 6 arrows, the arrows are firmly secured and separated so they're quiet when walking over uneven terrain, the quiver can be taken off my body if I'm ground blind hunting and it can be worn like a back or side quiver.

In conclusion, most of the bowhunters I see tend to favor back and side quivers over a bow quiver.

Another thought. Why don't you put a poll up and see how many people on TG; when bowhunting, use a bow, back, hip or side quiver? Since a GFA quiver can be both back and side quiver, it might need it's own designation.

Just something to think about.

[Broken Arrows]

Eagle Flight all the way.

[Gen273]

Thanks for all the imput, some good ideas so far.

Keep them coming.

One major flaw in my opinion of what is out there is the fact that every time you put an arrow in or take it out, you are dulling the broadhead with the foam in the hood. That is just one of complaints.

[robtattoo]

quote:Originally posted by T Lail:
I use an Eagle Flight and really see no need to improve on it....it is quality built,light, goes on and off very quickly and easily and does not effect bow performance......I have used many quivers over the years but Eagle Flight is MY answer.......good luck....    

 

[coaster500]

I have a couple of bow quivers but so far I just don't like the unbalanced feel when I shoot my bow with one? I like the idea but use a side quiver that leaves only the bow in my hand...

[JimB]

1.The quiver should be as light as humanly possible.
2.Ideally,the front of the hood should be even with the front of the riser,not protruding forward much past as this creates a brush catcher.Some riser designs make this difficult.
3.I like the nock of the front arrow to be even with,or behind the bow's lower tip.this keeps the nocks out of the dirt when leaning it against a tree and the fletch ends follow the shape of the bow,making a more streamlined unit.
4.From a front or rear view,the hood should be as tight to the riser as possible without causing vibration  issues and the closest fletch should be very close to the lower limb but have clearance.This keeps the quiver and arrows as close to the bow's center mass as possible.
5.It has to be quiet and not prone to have parts vibrate loose.The less metal the better.
6.Ideally,I'd like to see clearance between the arrow fletches but not fanned so wide apart as to make a huge fan at that end.
7.The broadhead dulling does occur.Flexible foam dulls edges quicker than you think.

Every bow is shaped different and it is difficult to achieve all those things without building the attachments to fit that specific bow.I usually modify a quiver or build one for each additional bow.

The EFA is probably as light and quiet as a quiver can be built.

This is one made from parts of other quivers and a hood and brackets that I made.It angles just as I like and the hood doesn't protrude much past the riser.It is very tight to the bow with a slight clearance.It is quiet as long as metal parts are Loc Tited.fairly light weight but 2 or 3 oz lighter would be great.
 

[wtpops]

I have started using the Thunderhorn Linx. The main reason i tried it and now like it is that it puts the fletched end of the arrows back behind the bottem limb and helps keep the fletch and nocks from hanging up when trying to get through the thick stuff

[Bowmania]

Don't think much more can be said than what JimB said.  I see no reason to make it easy to take on or off.  Solid is much more desirable.  If you practiced with it on it's going to shoot different with it off.

To me it's very important for the arrows to ride between the bow and the string as Jim's #2 and #6.

Our bows are wood the quiver should be wood and match.

One last thing that no bow quiver has.  Something that covers the fletches and doesn't add a lot of weight.  That's the short coming of GFA and why Safari Tuff has the advantage.  Add that to your bow quiver and you'll sell a lot.

Bowmania

I see no reason to redesign the wheel. There are some very good bow quivers out there, and some not so good.The perfect quiver is light, secure, easy on and off. To my mind both the Eagle's Flight and the Great Northern detachable (for TD bows) model fill those shoes, and I use both, on different bows. The only way I might think you could improve on them would be if the arrow attachment points were farther apart minimizing vibration. This is probably moot, since that distance is largely a function of the bow riser length. I want the quiver as close to the handle as possible to minimize drag on the limbs. Otherwise, I am happy with both. PS I wasn't happy with the EFA quiver until I got the new attachment straps, which really hold securely in place--the old system didn't do that well, it was always sliding down the limb. My 2 cents.

[ron w]

Barry Wensel still uses a Kwikee quiver....I guess that design still works. May not be pretty but.....after all these years???

[Dale in Pa]

For me, the perfect bow quiver should be as light as possible. Should have a very secure arrow gripper that will hold carbons secure in the hood with judos on. Gripper should be wide enough to keep fletching from touching each other. Hood and gripper should be connected so the hood doesn't move around when putting arrows back.An exception would be a limb bolt quiver for a TD.

I use a GN adjustable on my longbows with the small gripper for axis shafts. I shoot GTs and this gripper will be snug when new,but will stretch after some use and hold the GTs even with judos on.

On my TDs I use a Thunderhorn hood, the small one,and a small GN gripper.I custom made brackets and sewed leather around them.Looks good,holds the arrows securely and is quiet.What more could you ask for?

[ckanous]

I don't think there are to many more improvements to be made to quivers. EFA,Kanati,and GN have the best modification I think,and that is an adjustable 1pc. Maybe some type of open hood, like Bohning, were you don't trash the foam but that would require a double gripper system and that might not work on 2pc designs. I seem to modify all my quivers for each bow differently to meet my needs for that individual bow. This is an Eagles Flight I modified up for my Hoyt Buffalo. Comes off easily an I have it tucked away on the riser just perfect for balance. Now, yes this adds more weight to an already heavy bow but thats what really works for me to hold steady when drawing. Matches the bow really good also!
 
 

Yes, that is one thing that might be a good addition, which is to nix the foam in the hood in favor of another set of grippers for the point end. But then the hood would probably have to be more rigid.

That Uncle Barry, he really knows how to dress up a bow! Quikee Quiver--brilliant !

[Benny Nganabbarru]

My aesthetic tastes, if I am using a bow quiver (rarely these days, although not totally out), dictate a leather Selway or Thunderhorn, as I don't like the looks of any strut or rod connecting the top and bottom. My favourite is the Selway slide-on, as it is the most robust, and if I could wave a magic wand to improve it, I would ask for seven arrow capacity.

[Gen273]

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas.

[amar911]

Ben,

One thing I really like about the Totem addition to the EFA quivers is that the "rod" which effectively makes the two piece quiver a one piece quiver is made from arrow shaft material, so that part looks like just another arrow if you are not studying the quiver too closely. Plus I like being able to unscrew the Totem and stick it in with my arrows when I pack up the other two pieces in my luggage for travel. I also really like the way the two pieces of shaft are joined with rubber tubing that lets the Totem adjust to different length risers. It is a great system that may not be as objectionable as you think.

Allan

[2fletch]

Ben, several years ago we toyed with the idea of using flat aluminum (powder coated black or camoed)to connect the hood and arrow gripper. To me it seemed to overpower the bow profile and in fact looked like an item to put on a modern olympic bow or an X-bow. It never got past our building a prototype. Finally the idea of the "Totem" evolved using an arrow shaft that can blend into the middle of the arrow group without adding significient weight.

We still use powder coated flat aluminum for the "Wing" attachment. It's effective and works well, but it is a compromise between traditional and modern.

Amar911, sounds like you are using the totem to full advantage. It's guys like you that we depend on for tomorrow's products.