DIY elk hunting- how to get started

[Autumnarcher]

it may not be any big surprise, that when I started hunting elk, I was instantly addicted.
I've done drop camps, and semi- guided hunts, but by and large I'm a DIY kinda guy. Why pay for something I can surely do myself?

Now lets be clear, Im no expert, and will readily admit I can always learn more from others far more knowlegable than I.

AS I began prparation for this years adventure, I hada lot of work do do. I read every elk thread I can get to, here on TG and other forums. One thing I see in every forum is guys who are first timers asking how to get started, and seeking advice. I'm right there among them.

SO I thought I'd put up a  thread sharing what works for me, and how I tackled the process of outfitting myself for now and the future for DIY elk hunting.

So here I go. By all means, others should feel free to add to the discussion. Like I said, Im no expert, but thought I could share a little of what I've learned.

[awbowman]

I'll be watching this closely.  Flatlander heading for elk for the first time this year.  I think I will

1)  go deep if I can, don't know how this flatlander will really perform at 10,500'

2)  call very sparingly, probably no bugling

3)  scope out wallows if it's hot

4)  not get in a rush, 10 days to get them.  I'll be watching and listening for the first 2-3 days, then it's on.

5)  JUST ENJOY HUNTING THEM  AND BEING IN THE ROCKIES IN SEPTEMBER!!!!!!

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Thanks for the Thread John,

I'll be watching closely as I am going on my first DIY hunt for elk this fall (3 weeks) and have no idea what to expect.

[Bowmania]

Since you've been out there, there's no substitute for being in good shape.  That country can beat the living crap out of a flatlander.  This is coming from a guy who's had guides say, "Your in darned good shape for a flatlander.".  The harder you can pound the better your chances.

That being said, I shot my last elk from a treestand at a wallow.  It was still hard to get the treestand to where I found the wallow.

Bowmania

[Autumnarcher]

The American west has moe square miles of publicly owned wild lands than one could ever imagine.We are blessed with endless opportunity.

the first time you hear that bugle of a rutting bull echo across the mountains, it will stir something in your soul. But how do ai go about getting my broadhead into that bull?

This is for the apsiring DIY elk hunter. If you've never hunted elk, or haveonly been with outfitted hunts, you can reat assured that you CAN do it on your own. the only real differenceis whether you'll be hunting private land, or public. And the price.

Forst off, you need to decide where you would like to go- MOntana, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Idaho, Oregon,. Washington all hold good numbers of elk. Each state has its differences in availability of tags, amount of public land etc.
I suggest spending a lot of time on each states websites, as well as talking with residents from each of those states to learn the process of getting tags.

I have only hunted Colorado thus far, for ease of getting tags. Consequently though, this comes along with higher hunting pressure,or competition.

Once you decide on the state, then research wildlife numbers and hunter success stats for the different units, until you narrow it down. Again, talking with residents here helps, but dont expect them to hand over the GPS coordinates to the ir honey-hole. Remember, they found t hem by hard work, and so should you. its all part of the adventure.

Now you will have to decide how you want to do it. Base camp, spike camp, Bivy camp.

Base camp is probably the easiest and most comfortable. This involves setting a camp-tent, camper or RV at or near a  trailhead, and hunting in and out of there daily. This would mean closer to roads, and likely a little more competition close by. Also, you may find you are spending more hours predawn and after dark hiking in and out of hunting areas. But many elk are killed closer to the roads that you would think. A base camp setup allows for bigger tents, cots and other creature comforts. if you have access to horses or mules, these can be set up further in. But you get the idea.

A spike camp is similar, but usually much more simplified, and is packed in deeper into elk country. it could a camp that you backpack in and then hunt out of, and able to repack and move in one trip.

I bivy or bivouac style of hunting means you carry your camp on your back each day while hunting, and simply sleep whre you find yourself after dark. This style of hunting is tough, but has its rewards. Light weight gear is very important. As is physical conditioning.

regardless of camp style, you must be sure that if successful you can get the meat out in time to prevent spoilage. Wanton waste is a serious offense, and not to be taken lightly. 4-6 packloads of meat is the average to get an elk out. Make sure you're up to the task.

[Autumnarcher]

My hunt this year will be a combination base camp/spike camp arrangement. My son and I will be backpacking into a wilderness area of western Colorado for the entire season. 33 days, or until we kill a couple elk. A huge undertakingto say the least. We will set a base camp about a mile from the trailhead, hunt there as well as 2-5 days bivy type hunting, but once we find elk, we'll set our spike camp nearby so we arent lugging the extra weight around while hunting. We will return to base camp to rest and regroup as needed. With a hunt of this duration, going all out every day is simply unrealisitic. So we have rest days built into our plan.

This winter I spent countless hours researching gear. What I found is, for an investment about the cost of a semi outfitted hunt, I was ablr to purchase every bit of gear I will need for a lifetime of DIY elk hunting. My goal was to buy top of theline gear, new or used. I now have the gear to outfit myself and one other hunter completely. SO from here on out, my only expenses are gas to and from, and my tags. I really do not consider food to be a hunt cost, I have to eat just the same as if I was at home. But it is a bit more epensive. ok, getting off track here.

In my research, I read BAckcountry Bowhunting by Cameron Haines. Great book. Im currently reading a few others, but there are lots of good books out there to get you started.

I researched everything- tents, packs, stoves, sleeping bags, clothing, boots you name it. Once I narrowed down which specific item I wanted, I then started searching the net for the best prices. Trust me, shop around. I will list the gear I decided on later in the thread. Not to discount other brands etc, its just what I decided to go with.

Like I mentioned, some I bought new, some used. I bumped in to a great deal on a bunch of used stuff I couldnt pass up. All top notch stuff in like new condition.

[Autumnarcher]

In researching tents and packs, Kifaru was one vendor that seemed to come up often. TOp of the line mountain gear. Now I'll warn you, its not cheap. in fact, its very expensive. They do have a message board on their website, and in it is a trading post where you can pick stuff up, but snooze you loose here. Good stuff goes fast.

Another is right here on TradGang. Amazon,the big online auction site,and others can host some deals as well, but again research pricing. its well worth the wear and tear on your keyboard.

Ok, so what is the basic stuff you will need for a DIY kind of back country adventure? First, more is not better. Less is good.Lightweight, durable and dependable are key.

GOOD solid tent- with or without a floor is personal preference. I chose without. This is not an area to go cheap. a failed tent in bad weather can be life threatening. At the least, very uncomfortable.

Sleeping bag- down or synthetic again personal preference. Down bags pack down small, are lighter but worthless if wet. Synthetics dry out faster, a light but bulkier. I recommend a 10-15 degree rating. Buy a good one.

Sleeping pad- inflatable or rigid. Lightweight, and will make all the differene in the world on quality of sleep.

Backpack- there are many out there. get one designed for hunting, not sightseeing. The hunting packs will hold up to the weights of packing out meat. The others will fail.

water filtration- I have a pump style filter, as well as purification drops.

water bladder or bottle. Keeping hydrated is a big deal in the dry mountain air.

cook stove. lightweight, easy to use. Also a good lightweight cook set.

GPS and compass. Learn to use both. Coupled with USGS topo maps.

Boots- do not skimp on these. Your feet take a beating out there. Get good ones, and break 'em in.

Rain gear.

Other gear you will need- headlamp, flashlight, knives,game bags,personal hygeine items,and survival gear. I'll talk about clothing a little later.

Wife is getting after me to do something productive today, I'll add more later.

[Pete McMiller]

I will add a bit.  When you go on your very first elk hunt it's tempting to think that this is a once in a lifetime hunt, but in fact becoming an elk hunter is a process and that process takes time.  If you are a one and done guy get a guide and leave the knowledge with him.  I've been doing DIY hunts since 1993 (all public land) and learn something new every year.

The first year is a real learning experience.  Learning about altitude and conditioning.  Learning the importance of hydration.  Learning that elk are not deer and most of what you know about deer and deer patterns can be left at home because it won't help you kill an elk.  Learning that elk are everywhere and no-where to be found, that they can and will readily move 5-10 MILES if you put too much pressure on them.  Learn that you don't just drag an elk to the truck after you kill it.  Learn that being in the mountains in September is one of the grandest things one can do and is really addictive.

Just go, absorb, and have fun and the next year you will be 10 times more prepared.

[Autumnarcher]

One thing I've noticed about the trad bowhunting community, we as a whole are a pretty self sufficient lot. DIY hunts are the perfect venture for the trad kinda hunter. Lets face it, it takes just a bit more grit to shoot a stickbow, and that same grit is something deep inside every elk hunter.

Pete is spot on in his comments, elk hunting should not be viewed a a once in a lifetime venture. Once you properly outfit yourself, its an easily attained hunt annually, or semi-annually. Ort is that bi-annually? I newver keep the two straight. Ok, wife bugging me to go to the store......I suppose since I need a few more items for my food list, and some hot melt glue.

[Autumnarcher]

Aside from basic camp gear, your usual hunting gear will suffice for the most part. AS far as hunting clothes, there is a lot of personal preference involved. But I can say one thing, cotton hunting clothes have no place in the mountains. Its not unusual to get rained on often, and temps can plummet 40-50 degrees as a front moves in. Cold and wet cottton will kill you.

Wool, fleece, or the newer lines of sitka and kuiu clothes are designed for mountain hunting.
They arent cheap, but well worth the investment.
FUnny thing is, there are enough of those guys who HAVE to have the newest version every year, and many often sell off like new sitka stuff and bargain prices to  replace it with this years designs. Thats how I got mine, bought several sets used at prices comparable to "normal" hunting clothes. No, you don't have to have sitka or Kuiu clothes to hunt elk.

Layering is important. Temps can go from the teens at pre-dawn to 80+ by mid day, then drop off again in the afternooon. Being able to add or remove layers helps from soaking your clothes with sweat, then freezing by late afternoon.

A couple of pointers- leave the cotton socks,and underwear at home. They hold moisture and create rashes where you dont want them, and blistered feet. UnderArmor, or merino wool is a much better choice, breath better, and wick moisture.

Good boot socks from Cabelas, Vermont Darn Tough socks or the like would be a far better choice.

You'll burn a lot of boot leather, so take care of your feet. I make ahabit of carrng an extra pair or 2 of socks in my daypack. Sometime around mid day, when I sit for a break and lunch, I take my boots off, cool my feet and if possible soak them for a few miinutes in a cool creek if its hot out. After they dry , I put on fresh socks. This program makes for some happy feet, and re-energizes you.

As for what temps to dress for, typically Ive been in weather that is more hot thatn cold most times. I take along one heavier jacket and base layers, but most archery elk hunitng is pretty tolerable temp wise.

[Autumnarcher]

My clothing inventory goes something like this:

2 pr Sitka Ascent pants
2 Sitka Core zip long sleeve T-shirts.
1 Merino wool top and bottom
Sitka Vest and JAcket
1 wool sweater-military surplus or Goodwill are good places to get them cheap.
Packable rain gear
Cabelas fleece windstopper hoodie.
3 pr Vermont Darn Tough socks- med and heavy weight
1 pr crocks shoes- light weight, and great for back in camp to rest the feet from a day in boots. I dont care how stupid they look, if my feet are happy, so am I .
1 pr light gloves, 1 pr of warmer ones.
If feasible, a spare pr of boots isnt a bad idea either. I keep 'em in the truck or base camp.

[Flingblade]

Thanks for all the info sharing here!  I am considering my first elk hunt to CO next year and would like to do DIY.  Is this something you can do solo or do you need a partner for safety reasons?

[wooddamon1]

Cool thread, this will be my second season out here in CO. Lots of good information already!

[Bjorn]

Flingblade: From my experience I would say solo is not a good idea; safety is certainly a consideration as is what happens if you actually kill one? Even if you are not any real distance from the vehicle or camp you will skinning, cutting and hauling for literally days if you are alone.

[Autumnarcher]

Fling, it really depends on your own comfort level. Obviously with a good partner to share the work, its a better way to go. Tag team calling works well, and an extra set of legs to pack out an animal helps a ton. That said, I know of many guys who do it solo every year and are very successful at it. If it werent for my son going this year, I'd be going solo, although probably not for the whole season.

Safety reasons are a concern, but as long as you are in good physical condition and dont do anything stupid, its no riskier than driving back and forth to work.

[Autumnarcher]

Food is fuel, and you'll need plenty of it. deoending on the camp setup you choose, you have a lot of options.Hunting from your truck or a base camp, the sky is the limit. For those venturing further in, you'll have to carry it with you.

You wantto choose food that is light as possible, and packs a good amount of calories. The general rule of thumb here is 100calories per ounce. This is easy to do, but you have to read labels. Strip all the unnecessary packaging out. Military MRE's are good, but they run heavier, and there is a lot of extra stuff you dont need. I've used them, but no longer do.

Freeze Dried meals such as Mountain House and BAckpacker Pantry are very good, light and easy to prepare, but get expensive.

Our meal plan for this year consists of the following:

Breakfast-1/2C granola, a cscoopof dry milk and a scoop of protein powder ina baggie. Add water, shake and eat. Good cold or hot. About 450 calories.

I dont do a set lunch, I snack throughout the day. Trail mix,a cliff bar, a larabar,jerky, and a few Jolly Ranchers candies do the trick. I also made up a bunch of pemmican which is calorie dense, lightweight. A splash of honey or peanut butter dresses it up a bit. All told here runs around 1300-1600 calories.
A freeze dried dinner adds another 400-500 calories.
Other meal options are the lipton or zararains rice meal dinners. you can divide them in half, for a single person and get 2 meals out of them.
If you prefer to add meat, you can dehydrate grilled chicken or beef. rehydrate it in hot water for a while before adding to to the mix as it simmers. Instant packets of mashed potatoes are very filling, light and provide a good carb load. Tortilla wraps with peanut butter and bacon are also a good breakfast or lunch. Those boxed packages of bacon or bacon bits work well for this.

Being in the backcountry also affords the opportunity for some ddage grouse, rabbits or other small game, and maybe some fresh trout.

Our food plan for this year is pretty basic, but Im not out there for a fine dining experience. Food is fuel. I'll gulp down what I need when I deed to keep me fueled and on the hunt. I dont want to have to do a lot of cooking and dishes. Add hot water, stir and eat works fine for me, and I think while we'll probably have extra food when its all said and done, we're sure not going to go hungry. Not keeping yourself fueled will lead to fatigue, sore muscles and dull the senses.

 
Putting together breakfast packs.

 
Each bag contains a days provisions. When we head out for a few days out from base camp, we stuff 1 bag per day in our packs. Everyting is neatly packaged, with very litte trash to haul out.

I do not eat or prepare meals in the tent I sleep in. Keeping a clean camp will reduce the chances of bear problems. Any food left in base camp whilw we're away will bu hung in a waterproof bag out of reach of marauding bears.

[Autumnarcher]

Food, shelter, and clothing- I've hit on those so far. Nothing overly difficult with a littel planning. I'll admit, I'm a gear junkie. I like having good ,quality gear, and always looking to improve on my gear. I'm of the opinion you get what you pay for when it comes to outdoors gear.
Not that cheaper stuff is always bad, but in the backcountry, you dont have the option of running back to the store if something breaks or fails on you. I try to get the best bang for the buck, but I won;t skimp on critical gear.

As far as your bow, search TradGang threads for bow wieght/arrow weight for elk. you'll find a ton of them. Im not gonna rehash that here. My setup is a Thunderstick MOAB longbow 56@27". Arrows are 650 gr Surewoods, with 225 up front. Nothing fancy, just agood hard hitting setup, with some wicked sharp Woodsmans ready to do the deed.

Optics are important. Its been said time and time again get the best you can afford. That leaves a lot of room for discussion for sure. Im still working on that area. I found a good pair of Kahles 10x42's Imusingthis year after several trips with Nikon's in both 8 and 10x42. If Im not happy with the upgrade to the Kahles, my next investment is the Swaro's. you can spend a lot oftime glassing, and cheaper binos will leave your head throbbing, and arent as good in low light conditions.

As for GPS, there a lot of good ones out there.They an be had pretty cheap, under $200 that will work fine. The higher priced units do the same thing as the cheaper ones, just more features you may or may not use. I chose one with the mapping features, but I still carry USGS topo maps of the area, and a good military compass. one thing that drives me nuts is to see a hunter walking around all day staring at his GPS so he doesnt get lost.

I keep waypoints of camp locations etc. I get a bearing to it from the GPS, tuen it off, shoot a bearing on the compass and go. I may not turn it on for days if Im hunting familiar territory. I use mine in conjunction with the map and compass so if it fails, I can still gethere I need to.
Im not an expert with the compass, but work toget better.

There are several mapping websites to download or create custom topo maps, aerial photos etc. Im not too handy with them, so I go with teh standard USGS topo's. Google Earth or ArcGIS Explorer are great for looking over your hunting areas, figureing out potential camp areas andunting areas longbefore steping out ofthe truck.

The biggest mistake you can make is not getting very familar with how to use and set p your GPS long before you get back in the wilderness. Use it, play with it. Make sure the map datum on your GPS matches that of the topo maps you are using. Know what the declination from true north and magnetic north are. Take you compass out and use it.

I do not use the longitude/latitude system. I found using the UTM grid system is FAR easier and much more applicable to hunting. Its much simpler to use once you get the hang ofit.

[sweeney3]

THIS is a good thread.  Thank-you and keep it coming.

[Autumnarcher]

I'm a flatlander. I livein Michigan farm country, which is about 900 ft above sea level.
The place Im hunting, base camp is at 9600 and it goes up from there to over 11,000. Needless to say, Imgonna suck wind for a few days.

Knowing your physical limitations, and being in good physical condition makes a big difference in your ability to hunt elk, and stay on them.

Now Im no athlete, but I try to stay in good shape. I'll admit my phyiscal training for this hunt fell off from where I started, but Im uin far better shape than my last trip 3 yrs ago. But Im also 3 yrs older. So we'll see where I lacked in my training in a hurry.

I know guys who train like olympic athletes just for 2 weeks in elk country. I know others who dont do much of anything. I'll be the first to say there are extremes on both ends.

I'd put myself somewhere in the middle. Obviously the better your fitness level, the lesss time you'll spend recovering from a hard push, and the longer you'll keep moving.

I've hunted with guys in pathetic shape, who still managed to hunt, still got in to elk, and still killed them. I've seen guys in great shape busting through the mountains at breakneck pace, and be unsuccessful.

Train,lose a few extra pounds, walk, run, lift, whatever you can do to get in the best shape you can. But if youre not, hunting slower, sitting wallows or water holes, treestands etc are still all good tactics for elk. It doesnt have to be all running and gunning.Hunt hard, but hunt smart. Listen to your body. Drink LOTS of water.
take breaks, sit and enjoy the mountains.

When you live your life at 900 ft like I do, it takes a fe days to acclimate. GO EASY. If you jump out of the truck and start running all over, you'll likely end up in camp with a splittingheadache and puking your guts out.
If it persists, the only remedy is to desend to lower altitude. Altitude sickness at the least can ruin your trip. But it can be life threatening as well at higher elevations.

I usually drive straight through, and may spend the night somehere around 5-6000 ft to help my  body adjust. The first few days I go easy. I find when I first get out there, I have to pee constantly. But I know once that returns to normal in aday or so, Im good to go. Again,listen to what your body tells you. Some people have no problems, others battle it the whole trip. Wilderness Athlete carries a supplement called Altitude Advantage that works great to help battle altitude problems.

Your legs and lungs get the workout. Anything you can do to condition those will pay off huge.
Walking or doing stairs with your pack on, whether its just a daypack of a full load bacpack is great training. Interval training as well is good stuff.

[Shinken]

Here's a tip for managing altitude sickness that has worked for others and it has worked for me:

3-4 days prior to heading into the mountains take at least one TUMs (other ant-acids will also work; I used to take ROLAIDS until they changed the formula) per day and continue to take one per day once you are in the mountains.  The ant-acid creates a change in the blood chemistry by shifting the normal equilibrium (raises the pH I suspect), but it can prevent altitude sickness in some individuals - myself included.

Keep the wind in your face!

Shoot straight, Shinken