Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads

[xtrema312]

Last year I shot VPA’s in 175.  This was my first year with 3 blades.  I ended up sharpening by putting the head on the shaft and stroking from back to front.  I then worked them on some cardboard.  I got good enough for hunting I think.  They did the job, but I really wanted to get them to the next level of sharp.  

This year I am shooting 150 woodsmans.  I have worked down on the file so far.  I worked them down to one light stroke per side then some work on the back of my arm guard.  They cut paper ok and I can cut a rubber band without too much pressure, but they don’t shave yet.  

I have read some of the post and Charles’s tutorial on this, but I still have a few questions.  

First I think I need a stone and maybe something more to finish.  I am looking for the best thing to get that I can get local if possible.  Something from Gander Mountain or a well know hardware store if possible. I also have some points I could use up at Cabela, and it would be great if I could get something there.  I am trying not to charge anything more this year. Bow season is ready to start, and so far I have stayed out of trouble with the  wife. I don’t want to push it.  :D    What should I look for in a stone to use after the file?

Next issue is stropping.  Is it better to use smooth tanned leather or the rough side?  How much pressures do you use and how many strokes?  I know I need to keep at it until I get it shaving sharp, but I don’t want to spend a lot of time stropping when I really am not ready for that with the edge.

[JParanee]

I am no expert but what I do is back drag them on a fine nickolsan file

Then I go to a smaller file and go sideways back to front like on the three rivers tube demo

I finish by light strokes on a jewel stix makes a slightly toothy edge that works well for me

[smokin joe]

A very inexpensive to get your Woodsmans shaving sharp is a chain saw raker file. Use if just like a regular file -- then turn it on the side and "steel" the blades.  The sides of a raker file have no teeth and can be used just like a butcher's steel would be used on a knife, after you have completed the filing process. Steel the blades lightly from back to front -- one stroke per pair of blades for a total of 30 strokes and they will easily shave. Make sure you put a handle on the file or you will slice yourself to the bone.
Easy and inexpensive.
Good luck this season,
Joe

[Todweelz]

Todd, Ive been using diamond stone from G-5. I picked up in the classifieds, think it's 600 on one side 800 on the other,  using file, 600, 800 and finsh with leather . Shaves hair well, better yet 3 deer last year, all VERY short tracking jobs. Have heard the cc sharpener for three blades from 3-rivers does a nice finish job as well, Good Luck Sataurday ! Todd

[xtrema312]

I did a search on the raker file.  Looks like just a 6" single cut flat file just with no file cut on the edge.  

Due you true the blades on a large file first or just do basically what 3 rivers shows and leave the dip in the blades?  

I reworked a VPA head from last year and notices that the way I did them last year didn’t keep the blades true and flat.  It took a little to get the edges true again.

[smokin joe]

I don't bother to true the blades -- I am only concerned with getting them sharp (sharp is what counts). My file treatment is basically the 3-Rivers video method, except that I lighten the pressure on the file at the end of the file process to stroke them sharp, and then I steel them with the side of the raker file to get them very (shaving) sharp.
Best regards.
Joe

[xtrema312]

Good luck to you to Todd!  It is going to be great weather for the opener.  Now if I just didn’t have this cold virus.   :rolleyes:  Oh well, another day and a half to try to get feeling better.

[bowslinger]

After using I fiel, I use a Smith's diamond hone. It has a coarse side and fine side.  Several strokes on coarse, followed by several on fine.  Can shave arm hair afterward.

Model I use is called a Smiths Diamond Combination Sharpener.  Hone surfaces are only 4 inches long but hone inserts inside handle for storage.  They sell for $15 to $20 online.

[Thebear_78]

I use the file, then a ceramic stick.   I filed the dip out of mine and get them shaving sharp in no time.

[Friend]

Have always been quite inept at sharpening BH's.

Started using a three sided jewel stick last year. Now my Woodsmans, Snuffers and Big 3's are easily and quickly sharpened to my satisfaction.

[xtrema312]

What is the difference between the diamond stick 3 Rivers has, 1000 grit, a jewel stick, a steel, and a ceramic rod?

[Rob DiStefano]

i use wensel woodsman heads pretty much exclusively, and with good results.  there are two ways that i know of to sharpen them well enough to shave hairs easily.  

the first method gets the blades straight - most are slightly concave, which will prevent flat file sharpening.  i do this on a bench sander or belt sander with 120 grit - put the head on a shaft and lay down so the sanding belt runs from the back of the head to its point.  do this quickly, about 2 seconds per side, don't get the head too hot and ruin the temper.  then i put it on a 12" grobet file and push from back to front on each side 'til a burr is raised.  i also "pyramid" the needle point, to make it stronger.  i knock down the burr with very light strokes of a very fine diamond file or arkansas stone, then a final polish with light swirls on stiff cardboard.

the second method is to use a 6" grobet file, stroking each pair of blades from back to front - this follows any blade curvature.  raise the burr on all edges, "pyramid" the tip, knock down the burr with very light strokes from a very fine diamond file or a stone.

there is another method i've only heard/read about, where you first put the edges on a 6" grinding wheel, light stroking across the wheel's stone - this creates a hollow ground edge that has less angle than if flat ground, that's sharper but a tad more fragile 'cause it's thinner at the edge.

hope this helps.

[spike buck]

I just found a way to shave hair with mine this week. I have the old style ones. First, I use a bastard file from 3-Rivers. I use sharpie marker to mark the edges and keep working on them until all the marker is gone and get them level. Drawing back to front towards me. Now for the part that made them shave...for me. I found an old stone in my collection of stuff. Not sure what grit, but it isn't the finest grit. I would say it's just coarser than a fine hone. I use a light, tight, swirling motion like Rob. I couldn't believe it. They shave! Maybe its the swirling motion?

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by spike buck:
I just found a way to shave hair with mine this week. I have the old style ones. First, I use a bastard file from 3-Rivers. I use sharpie marker to mark the edges and keep working on them until all the marker is gone and get them level. Drawing back to front towards me. Now for the part that made them shave...for me. I found an old stone in my collection of stuff. Not sure what grit, but it isn't the finest grit. I would say it's just coarser than a fine hone. I use a light, tight, swirling motion like Rob. I couldn't believe it. They shave! Maybe its the swirling motion?

truth be told, you can get any broadhead or knife to shave hair with nothing more than the coarsest file or stone.  it's ALL about raising the burr and then ever so gently and lightly removing that burr.  just ask ron @ kme ....

[spike buck]

Rob, I'm sure it's possible for some to make them shave with just a coarse file. But, like you, I needed a stone to make it happen.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by spike buck:
Rob, I'm sure it's possible for some to make them shave with just a coarse file. But, like you, I needed a stone to make it happen.

that's what knocks down the burr - without doing that, removing the burr very gently, the edge won't shave hair.

[Todweelz]

Todd, try Dayquill and Red bull you'll be good [and wired], Todd

[MikeW]

I've messed with these a ton and tried all kinds of instructions and I can for the most part get a 2 blade scary sharp. I'm going to say this if you are laying the blade flat on your arm and trying to shave with it, it's not going to happening just because of the angle of the edge, once you have it polished and think it's sharp tilt it a little bit and then try and shave with it. Just by it's design it's not going to shave like a two blade,but it's plenty sharp to hunt with.

That's my opinion and am sticking too it until someone can send me one sharpened on a flat stone/file that makes hair pop.

[drewsbow]

Here is what I do , first use a Rada wheel for five strokes then jewel stick. I strope on leather with polish paste , rough side first then smooth side . This only takes a couple minutes per head and they shave hair after this.  Drew

[toby]

I found that when I had previous trouble getting them to shave easily it was due to using too much pressure. Reduce the pressure and increase the number of strokes, when it start to "feel" sharp, use very, very light pressure. I finish on cardboard and am now happy with the results.