Killy, I shoot odd ball bows I find at garage sales
Hey everyone, I want to break it down very simply so there is no confusion. I use all modern style fletchings and shoot Easton Axis arrows so I do not want anyone getting confused with the original "Native American" style 2-fletch. I shoot right handed and right helical 5" low profile parabolic feathers. The reason for this is I like the way right wing feathers lay on the arrow shaft. The portion of the fletch that is closest to the broadhead starts out higher on the arrow and as the fletch gets taller, it is angling down towards the side of the arrow shaft for a less obstructed view down the arrow. For a left handed shooter, they would want to shoot left helical for the same optical appearance and least amount of interference to the shooters line of site.
For application of a properly made 2-fletch arrow, I personally use the Bitzenberger fletching jig. I'm sure others will due but this is what I use. Leave the nock index knob on the jig exactly where it is. You will not touch the knob at all during the fletching process. Push the arrow nock down over the nock indexer. Place the arrow into the jig and either use fletch tape or glue to attach the feather. If using fletch tape, when you remove the clamp from the feather, make sure that the feather does not curl at all. This can happen on any feather whether it is 2, 3, or 4 fletch so make sure that has not happened. When you are certain that the feather is on the shaft properly, I will use a quick drying glue with some accelerator on the front of the fletch, down the side and at the back to lock it in place. Now for the other feather. Take the whole arrow out of the jig, spin it 180 degrees and push it back down over the nock indexer. Repeat what you did with the first feather and you will have a perfectly fletched 2-fletched arrow. You "DO NOT" need anymore helical then what you normally use.
Benefits of this method are:
1. The 2-fletch drift less in a cross wind. A 3 or 4 fletch arrow always has 2 or more feathers fighting a cross wind therefore the tail of the arrow is always a bit off with the nock not being directly behind the point 100% of the time. A 2-fletch arrow has the nock directly behind the point 50% of the time in a cross wind because as it spins, every half rotation the feathers are parrallel with the wind so the tail end of the arrow keeps pulling in behind the point.
2. Nocking the arrow on the string is identical either way you do it so no need to look for a cock feather or nock indexer for reference.
3. There is minimal contact with the shelf as one feather cuts through the area in the corner of the shelf and the other touches nothing as it clears about the shelf on the outside.
4. They stack in bow mounted quivers very nicely as there is no 3rd or 4th feather for the next arrow to scrape against eliminating any unecessary fletching to fletching noise.
5. Quick and easy to fletch and are very silent during flight.
Please realize that bare shaft tuning is a HUGE part of good arrow flight no matter how many fletchings an individual chooses to use. With a properly spined and tuned arrow for a bow, I have found that the 2-fletch setup has several benefits as described above even when shooting large diameter broadheads. I wanted to let the trad community know about my experience with this as I have been shooting and hunting with 2-fletch for the better portion of my archery career and would be happy to help anyone with questions concerning this topic.
Thanks, Jim Neaves