Keeping Weight Tubes From Popping Nock Out When Shot?!?!

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I'm really getting frustrated with these weight tubes. I tried the plier pinching so the tubes fit snug, but the inertia when the arrow is shot still sends the nock flying off to areas unknown. It really ticked me off when I lost one of my nocturnal lighted nocks in the grass and had to wait till dark to find it!!            

Thanks for any help.

~SEMO~

[Thebear_78]

I too have to fight with weight tubes popping out especially when making a hard hit.   I haven't had any fly out while shooting yet, just when they hit the target hard or any hard object.   Didn't they used to make knock inserts that had a small allen head screw in them to tighten to the inside of the shaft??

If you used a slower glue like gorilla glue you could glue them in with no problem.   I might have to resort to glueing them in but so far just watch for the knocks and stick them back in if they pop out.

I have heard that if you put small aluminum footings on the knock end this helps keep them from popping out but haven't tried it.

[Jeff Strubberg]

Just glue the nock in and quit worrying about it.  There's no reason to leave them loose.

[SuperK]

Hey guys, try some weedeater line wraped with electrical tape.  Just cut the line to the proper length, cut the electrical tape the same length, put the weedeater line in the middle of the tape and just fold the tape over in half.  It doesn't pop out your nocks, it doesn't rattle in your arrows, you can make it any weight you want, and its cheap!

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I might try the weed eater line trick, I've got some of the thicker red heavy duty stuff and I bet that would give me all the extra weight I need. I'm gonna secure these 4 wt. tubes I have first then I'll try the weed eater line trick.

Jeff- I don't want to glue my nocks because I like having the option of fine tuning my feathers to my arrow shelf. Especially when I refletch sometimes I need to tweak it a bit to get it where it flies perfect off the arrow shelf and going from longbow to recurve seems like it always needs to be adjusted just a bit.

I'll try using a slow setting glue like Thebear suggested, don't know why I didn't think of that? Good idea, thanks for throwing that out there. Sometimes when you just get all worked up and frustrated with a project you need somebody to take a look at it for ya and point out the obvious.

Thanks for all the tips and advice guys!
That's why I asked the question here because you all have been there, done that and always offer good tips and tricks.  

[Thebear_78]

that gorilla glue is good stuff.  I use it to glue in inserts and aluminum footings too.    You can clean up with water as  before it sets and it holds as good as any other glue I have tried.

[Forrest Halley]

The greatest reason I have found for not gluing the nocks in is: Say your fletching comes loose on the leading edge of a particular feather you rotate it outward for a bandaid on a 3d course or another few shots stumping or small game hunting before refletching. IMLE the inside lower hen feathers get the most beat up going over the shelf. I like nocks with an indexing spine as I run all feathers the same color.

What's the consensus on how weight tubes affect the spine of the arrow?

[reddogge]

People tend to not glue the nocks in because they tend to break when a hard object is hit and you can easily use a point to thread into the broken nock and pull it out and replace it.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Both excellent points to remember reddoge and Forrest, I also rotate my feathers when I see them start to wear because I shoot with one feather in. All my feathers are the same color so it doesn't matter if I rotate them, I mark the nock with a black sharpie for location instead of a different color feather as an indicator. That's one thing I never liked about shooting woodies was the fact the nocks had to be glued, it made refletching a pain in the rear end also. I usually cut the nock off after refletching and installed a new one when I had the feathers dialed in where I need them. Now shooting carbon with tunable nocks makes it all so much easier and extremely durable.

[Jim Picarelli]

I got tired of the push-in carbon nocks so I bought nock inserts,glued them in and used glue-on Bohning Classic nocks....end of problem

[Bud B.]

FWIW I'm experimenting with 3/16 wood dowels as "weight tubes." I find they are just larger than the GT nock inside dia. I trim them and press in the wood dowel for a snug fit to the nock then trim the dowel so the other end contacts the tip insert back. I take scotch tape at four points along the shaft to make the dowel stable along the length of the shaft (bushings, if you will - also keeps down rattling noise) and it makes the spine stiffer. Kinda like turning a 3555 into a 5575. The only problem is weight consistency with the wooden dowels. With the dowel pressed into the nock it doesn't separate with the inertia of release or upon impact.

Very experimental at this stage for me. Wish I had a spine tester but flight tells me it's stiffer thus allowing for heavier points and a better/higher GPP arrow.

I suspect moisture could cause weight variances so sealing the wood is another consideration.

Just passing this along in case someone else wants to try it.

I'll post this comment in it's own thread also for other to chime in so as not to hijack this thread.

[Lechwe]

Crimp the tubes about every 4" rotating 90 degrees after every crimp. A little drop of supper glue once they are pushed in and you won't have any problems with them backing out again. I've shot them for years like this with no issues.

Good luck.

[stevewills]

use a plastic wal mart bag.stretch it over the nock end of your arrow and push nock in..itll hold it

[JParanee]

I gave up on them and glued Nocks in

[Bill Carlsen]

I  gave up on weight tubes several years ago. Solved all of my arrow weight problems using heavier FOC....200-250 grains. It might mean you need to go to a stiffer shaft but once you find the right combo it can't be beat for durability, arrow flight and penetration. The only other way that I know of is to glue the nocks in place.

[Ragin Bull]

When I was shooting with tubes one thing I did that helped alot was to cut the tubes about 1/4" longer than what I actually needed.
That way when you put the nock in it actually compresses the tube just slightly and eliminates the tube from recoiling.
I found that it pretty much eliminated the nock problem. Give it a try, it can't hurt.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I think I got the problem solved. I dribbled a few drops of contact cement down the inside of the shaft then slid the wt. tube in and pushed it all the way down to the back of the insert using a wooden dowl. I let them sit overnight and shot them this morning and it's all good so far. Lots of FOC and @540 gr. they hit like Thor's Hammer out of my 58# MOAB. Since I don't draw the full 28" I think I'm probably pulling around 55-56# or so. I've got 2 more to build then I need to shoot them a bunch more and see how it goes before I put broadheads on them.

[Thebear_78]

I put a few drops of glue on the weight tubes yesterday and glued them in.  after shooting several times  none popped back out.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Mine haven't moved either after using contact cement, but I think I'll try the gorilla glue on the next ones since it cleans up with water. That was a good tip and I should have known that since my dad is a wood worker and uses gorilla glue on everything he builds. You gotta be careful with it because it does expand quite a bit, so just a dab will do ya!

[Thebear_78]

I was wondering if anyone had tried the pin nocks for gold tips.  It seems like you could glue in the pin nock adapter and not have to worry about weight tubes popping out but still be able to adjust the nock and replace it later with the different pin nocks.