Arrows "corkscrew" in flight...help?

[Shawn Leonard]

Well I can tell you even full length you are well over spined. You should try .600 spine or use at least 225 up front and most likely more. Shawn

[Jeff Strubberg]

This happens any time you have a non-trad shop set up arrows for you.  They don't know beans about spine.  I guarantee you if a wheel bow shop sets up your arrows, you are going to be way overspined.

[slowbowjoe]

Well, it was a trad shopthat set me up. Anyway, I ordered up a test kit of points, and will try 'em as soon as I get 'em.
Previous arrows were shooting well, but got beat up and shortened from breakage, and I see corkscrewing with some of those.
They do fly a little better out of my 5# heavier centershot recurve, so I'm thinking spine issues are the major part of the problem.

[ChuckC]

so the arrows are bending up and down from one thing, and side to side from another thing, meanwhile they are spinning round and round cause of the feather thing,  so how can you tell ?
ChuckC

[Looper]

Originally posted by ChuckC:
so the arrows are bending up and down from one thing, and side to side from another thing, meanwhile they are spinning round and round cause of the feather thing,  so how can you tell ?
ChuckC

What are you asking, exactly?

[Holm-Made]

He didn't fletch LW feathers with a RW jig or vice versa did he?  Just a thought.  It's been done before.  Chad

[ChuckC]

Cheney, I'm just making a back handed comment that there is a bunch going on and changing a bunch of stuff at the same time doesn't tell you what it was.

Heck,  I had a similar appearing situation years ago and simply changing broadheads fixed it.
Who'da thunk ?
ChuckC

[Looper]

That's what I figured. You're right. He needs to change one thing at a time.

[sawtoothscream]

i would try a heavy weight up front, bare shaft tune and work on your release.  i changed my finger position on the string a little and it made a big difference in my shooting.

[1screagle]

I agree with Chuck, change one thing at a time to learn from this experience. It's very rewarding when figuring out how to make things better. There are simple rules to follow for a basic setup to create a base, but enough variables to make it difficult for others to know forsure the right advise, in my opinion. More than one way to get to California.

[Swinestalker]

Originally posted by Shawn Leonard:
Well I can tell you even full length you are well over spined. You should try .600 spine or use at least 225 up front and most likely more. Shawn

I agree with Mr. Leonard. I have a 47 pound Whip and shoot the same arrows in it. I need 250 up front to get good flight. I would be looking for some .600 spine arrows.

[Archie]

I'm just about sure there are a lot of "duct tape" cures to bad arrow flight; but if a guy wants to get to the bottom of it and not have to monkey around with weird or inconsistent success, getting those arrows to go STRAIGHT out of the bow (i.e., well-tuned) is the first and most critical step.  

I learned an awful lot of arrow-flight "theory" from Ken Beck's video on arrow tuning.  I would recommend watching it.  I know it's on the Black Widow owner's DVD; don't know where else.

Archie

[Tajue17]

not sure if this was mentioned because I didn't really read through everything but when I'm helping friends bareshaft tune their arrows and I see cork screwing where the bqack of the arrow is actually spinning in a circle 1st thing I look for is the follow through,,,,, could you be slightly jerkign or tourqing your bow hand upon release,,,, if you are not sure take an elastic and keep over wrapping it on the end if the arrow shaft right where the arrow draws to when you have it at full draw,,  now have a friend draw that arrow back with your bow till it hits the elastic like a draw stop and carefully shoot it makign sure the bow is held verticle and still..

if that arrow still corkscrews then theres alot  off with the set-up but otherwise its your form,,,,, 90% of the time it should maintain swing in some direction showing the spine vs bow until its tuned but I hardly ever see cork screwing.

its possible but just some things to try,, good luck.. T

[The Whittler]

Shawn Leonard won't stear you wrong, he knows his arrows.

[kennyb]

Joe-did anyone mention Stu Miller's chart to help you get in the ballpark? Use Stu's chart and it will save you a lot of grief! Just punch in your bow/arrow data and you'll get the info you need! Google it or PM me and I'll get it to you. Good luck!

Kenny    

[slowbowjoe]

OK - just got a test kit of tips, set 'em up and shot a while- 200 points definitely shoot best... not quite straight (still some corkscrew), but hitting close. Ran out of daylight. Will work with nock & brace height some tomorrow. Will also shoot 'em with my 45" centershot recurve for comparison.

[slowbowjoe]

Well I've had a couple of tuning sessions, observed carefully, and so far : 200 grain points shoot pretty nicely, 175 or 225's are pretty close also.
Point weight was off, as many suggested. Bow needed tuning
 ( brace height up alot, nocking point down just a little.
Now they're grouping pretty well, though there's still a tiny bit of wobble in flight. Brace height was found down to 1 turn up or bown, nocking height within 1/16".
Allowing room for some bad releases, I'm seeing arrow flight is nearly optimal; will continue to fine tune. I want to thank you all again for being so helpful.

[slowbowjoe]

Well I've had a couple of tuning sessions, observed carefully, and so far : 200 grain points shoot pretty nicely, 175 or 225's are pretty close also.
Point weight was off, as many suggested. Bow needed tuning
 ( brace height up alot, nocking point down just a little.
Now they're grouping pretty well, though there's still a tiny bit of wobble in flight. Brace height was found down to 1 turn up or bown, nocking height within 1/16".
Allowing room for some bad releases, I'm seeing arrow flight is nearly optimal; will continue to fine tune. I want to thank you all again for being so helpful.

[2treks]

What is the tiller on your bow? from string to fade out, top and bottom limb.

[Bobaru]

For what it's worth, I'll bet your arrows are straight fletch.  Straight fletch is great for target practice and for tuning.  They will show you are out of tune quicker than a helical.  But, make sure you have helicals for hunting.