Take down arrows. Pretty cool

[Thumper Dunker]

Kind of cool. But thinking the joint would be a weak spot. Still kind of cool.

[Kevin Dill]

I think takedown bows and takedown arrows are a natural match for traveling and/or backpacking. The only reason I have to use a longer piece of baggage for my hunting trips (flying) is due to the 32 to 36 inch arrow case. I'd much prefer a shorter duffel. If anyone ever develops a first class td arrow system, I'd be all-in.

[Rob DiStefano]

i'd think it's fairly easy to make a t/d carbon or alum.  cut the finished arrow in half, then use a pair of point inserts into each cut end, and piece of threaded rod as a coupler (glue the rod into one of the inserts).  tweak for the best spine - i don't think the added coupling weight would be more than 50-70 grains.  for that matter, one could use a smaller diameter tail end than front end, for a kinda tapered arrow.  hmmm ....

[Shakes.602]

Thats a Pretty Nifty Idea! I like the Alum. Example, but would LOVE to see the Cedar Example too!

[Prairie Drifter]

Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
i'd think it's fairly easy to make a t/d carbon or alum.  cut the finished arrow in half, then use a pair of point inserts into each cut end, and piece of threaded rod as a coupler (glue the rod into one of the inserts).  tweak for the best spine - i don't think the added coupling weight would be more than 50-70 grains.  for that matter, one could use a smaller diameter tail end than front end, for a kinda tapered arrow.  hmmm ....

Or a thinner walled for the back end ie; 2016/2013

increases  FOC?.....

[Sal]

Shakes, there was an article in an old magazine about making wooden takedown arrows.  It involves tubing, either brass or aluminum.  Probably the right sized aluminum shaft will work.  They had to be aligned properly due to the grain in the wood, but they seemed just as easy as the ones above.

[Rob DiStefano]

i just whipped one up.  it works just fine, shot out of a 52# longbow.  i didn't have any spine issues either bare shaft or with these 5.25" full helicals i burnt.

 

 

 

 

[steadman]

Those are neat, and if you want a practical use for them, go chase bear or lions with hounds, you'll find that take down anythings are life savers. It's nice to have 2 hands for that  

[Kevin Dill]

Hey Rob...nice job! I'm starting to become a believer....

[Rob DiStefano]

i dunno how it would be best to make a t/d woodie, i think that'd be tough to get the sections to join smoothly.      
 
but for a carbon or alum it's really too easy.  i cut the shaft in two with a carbide wheel on a dremel, square up the ends on a sanding wheel, epoxy the inserts.  the one i just made, i evenly bisected the carbon shafting and did not take into account the nock and point lengths.  i'm gonna do another, but this time bisect the completed arrow, and maybe go 1/2" to 1" further forward for the cut - make it a tad more weight forward.  

got to make for a most compact, stealth bow and arrow - a 3pc 58" or so t/d recurve or longbow and a pack of these little t/d arrows.  :D

[Doc Nock]

Rob, ole bud....does this mean you've joined up with a dark side Assassin crew?  

Didn't Van/Tx do something like that with wood and and alum joiner?

[ROB TAYLOR]

Here's an example of the wood t/d arrows that used to be available at Screaming Eagle (Paul Brunner-too short)...they belong to a buddy that worked for Paul at SE here in Missoula back in the day.
 
 
 
 
 

These were made to slip fit using two different sizes of aluminum shaft.  The cut-in-half wood shaft is reduced in diameter for each shaft size, the smaller obviously slip fitting inside the larger....the larger is exactly the same diameter as the wood shaft.  These are really well done and have a super tight fit and seemless transition.
-Rob

[William F. Adams]

The portability / compactness aspect is appealing.

 One of the reasons I consider my current takedown bow case:

     

a prototype, is that it's too small to accommodate arrows for my 29" draw length --- the next version will be 34 and a half by 11 and a half by 3 and a half inches. (The other reason is I want to use nicer, solid brass hardware --- if someone knows of a source for small solid brass draw catches let me know.)

Is there a size of carbon shafts which will nestle inside Carbon Express Heritage 150 arrows? If so, would that be "livelier" than an aluminum insert?

[Raging Water]

I love innovation. If Rob DiStefano likes it, that is all the recommendation I need.

Matt

[Kevin Dill]

Interesting thoughts. One thing that occurred to me:

I would consider making the cut below the fletch somewhere...probably at my cresting (yes, I hand-crest my Bemans). The shaft would not be split exactly in the middle which is theoretically where the most flex (stress) occurs. I would then be able to use my cresting design to conceal the joint. The end result would still be arrows that are much easier to travel with, or backpack, and they would still have the aesthetic appeal of a one-piece arrow.

[ishoot4thrills]

Wow, Rob, I think you just may be on to something right there. That is a really nifty idea. Heck man, make'em and sell'em!

[Rob DiStefano]

be interesting to see how a rear sectioned t/d arrow performs.  the other question is, how long will the longest section be?

fwiw, i just made a pair of carbon t/d arrows that are cut asymmetrically with regards to the shaft itself, but will render equal halves when the nock and broadhead lengths are added into the equation.  the results for a 29" arrow is a 13-1/2" front end and 15" back end (for the shaft alone).  i'm waiting for the epoxy to fully cure on the insert adapters, and then will test out both types (bare shaft and with 5-1/4" full helical burnt fletches), to see how they fly and perform.  i need to also compare 1pc and 2pc arrow weights and foc.  the fun never ends, eh?   :D    

 

 

[Rob DiStefano]

that woodie t/d arrow appears to be all about carefully turning down the cut ends.  not easy, i'd think, with what's an 11/32" dowel.  plus, there is no locking of the aluminium sleeves, and it's a friction fit all the way.  if a section of woodie could be chucked into a lathe and then dead center drilled for pair of glued-in bushings, that might just work.    

[MikeW]

If you watch one of his videos he talks about how the cut/joint needs to be made front of center.
I'd post it but I did that last week and the thread got pulled. Search Youtube for "SlingBow DVD"

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by MikeW:
If you watch one of his videos he talks about how the cut/joint needs to be made front of center.
I'd post it but I did that last week and the thread got pulled. Search Youtube for "SlingBow DVD"

your topic post was removed because it had nothing at all to do with traditional archery/bowhunting, sorry.  we'd do the same for atlatls and xbows and blowguns etc.

you do NOT need to cut the shaft in any particular place for "foc balance". the feller in that utube video appears to have no clue about arrows and traditional bows.

for the 29" feathered t/d arrow in the above pics ...

- the twin alum insert and 1-1/8" 8-32 thread steel rod weigh about 75gr.

- with 250gr up front, the foc is 22.2%.

- with a 125gr point it's almost 16%.  

the 29" beman ics 500 hunter/venture, w/3-fletch + point insert and no point digitally weighs 334grs.  adding a 250gr point makes the mass weight 584 grains.