bareshaft does it matter?

[Badwithabow]

Well I made the mistake of shooting a few bare shaft to see how it looked and it was horendously over spined. But fletched they fly like death missles on a mission. I know I've seen threads on this before but my phone won't search the forum. So if you got arras that hit dead where you want do u worry about it?

[mrjsl]

Yes it will eventually cost you.

Rig up an arrow/point combo that has a weaker spined shaft that does bareshaft correctly. Fletch with chartreuse fletchings, and do the same with some of your existing arrows. Shoot both for a while, and you will see a difference.

[Troy Breeding]

In my book if your not properly bareshafted then you are taking a big chance. I see this all the time, people think their arrows are correct until they finally try bareshafting. Very seldom will your arrows be correct without bareshafting.

Troy

[Mr.Magoo]

If they fly perfectly, then they fly perfectly.  Bare shafting may help you get that perfect combination, but really I've never had much success bare shafting.  My form probably isn't good enough.

I will say, there is a difference in arrows I once thought flew great and arrows that really do fly great.

[cbCrow]

I have never used bareshafting because of so many variables. For interesting reading go  www.elitearrows.com  and read what Paul has to say.

[wtpops]

Mount some broadheads and shoot 3 broad heads and 3 field points at 20 or 25 yards and see what you get. If all 6 group where you are looking i would say you are good to go.

[Jeff Strubberg]

You can get an arrow far enough overspined that it will fly straight again.  The problem is it will shoot progressively farther left (for a right handed shooter) the farther you get from your target.

It's a shooting variable that you have the opportunity to eliminate through proper tuning.

[Rob W.]

What did people do before bareshafting?

[Night Wing]

With bare shafting, your arrow release has to be very good. If it isn't, bare shafting is going to frustrate and aggravate.

I tune my arrows to my bows with Stu Miller's free calculator program. It will give me the same results as bare shafting gives since I've compared it (tested) the shot bare shaft arrows against Stu's calculator, but Stu's program will give me the same results in one quarter of the time. So, I don't use bare shaft tuning anymore. I guess I'm lucky my arrow release is good.

Once caveat. The correct info has to be put into Stu's calculator program and if one or two boxes of info is incorrect, it will throw your arrow selection way off.

[rolltidehunter]

every person is diff.

for me Stu calculator has been a GREAT starting point. it gets me in the ball park.

then i start playing with tip weight from there. i go up or down in weight untill they bareshaft perfect. then i fletch.

i thought i was shooting good groups until i learned how to baresharft an arrow. now my acuracy is so much better than before.

[Bjorn]

In the beginning there was only bareshafting.........people put feathers on the shaft to get better flight more easily. You should be able to shoot arrows without fletching using FP's and get really good flight. Hold the bow straight vertical, relax and focus on your release. Bareshafting at under 15 yds or less won't tell you the full story BTW.
Once the feathers are on they will hide a multitude of sins.
Shooting through paper and looking at the tears works well too and you do not need to shoot out to 25 yds.

[Rossco7002]

I drove myself nuts bareshafting for 3 years when I got into traditional bowhunting. I could get all my arrows grouping together at 20 yards but always had the bareshafts flying nock right. I was unable to get over that flaw and constantly stressed over it. I suspect it's a form issue as the result is the same with field points ranging from 150 - 225 gr. At the start of this season I screwed my broadheads on and fired away. Good arrow flight and they landed with the field tips - finally I gave up bareshafting and have been happier as a result. lol. Interestingly, my set-up is dead on with Stu's calculator (once I figured out the right way to input insert weight). I set up a new bow and some 600 spine arrows matching the data - end result was great broadhead flight without the stress of my previous experiments......

[A.S.]

Bareshafting is just one of many ways to tune your bow properly. The bottom line is, if your broaheads fly tru and impact the same point as your field points, then you are tuned.

I am a bareshaft tuning fanatic by the way!!

[Tajue17]

bareshafting is important and honestly overspined should put a smile on your face because now you can double that point weight,, when its underspined thats when it really stinks.

bareshafting is not critical to make a good hit where accuracy is,,, bareshafting is only critical in utilizing every bit of your bow set-up and your arrows energy,,, ALSO bareshafting is also nice because once perfect flight is achieved you can then use any broadhead vs any fletch and if you get rained on and your 5.5" highback shields lay down flat you will still get perfect flight even with a huge 2" broadhead.  

I just bareshaft tuned some heritage 90's to my new used treadway blackforest and now its set up with 2" wide treesharks and 3 4" parabolic feathers and they fly like lazer beams..

[Cookus]

I'm with A.S..   If the broadheads are flying great, you've done well!   I also paper-tune my broadheads... It's not for everyone, but it gives me peace of mind and confidence     !

[mrjsl]

I've done most of my fiddling with two different recurves, very similar in weight. and Carbon Express 250's (.375 spine) and 150's (.487 spine).

I started with the 250's because that's what the charts and stu's calc. said. I kept adding point weight till I finally go bare shafts grouping with fletched shafts with 250 grain points.

Later on a whim I bought some 150's and they far outperform the 250's even when they are set up to have the same dynamic spine. I have a 250 and a 150 both set up to 46 lbs dynamic spine in stu's calculator, and the 150 shoots straight, bullet holes in paper, could shoot a 3d tourney with bare shafts. The 250 clearly corkscrews in flight.

BTW Stu's Calc. says I need 75-80 lbs dynamic spine.

[Friend]

1st -May use Stu's calc to get me in the ball park.

2nd - I bareshaft to get me close

3rd - I use BH's to tell me the truth

Typically when I bareshaft 25 to 30 yard, then my 3BL 1 1/2 "BH's are likely to be on or possibly require merely minimal adjustment.

Often times I skip bareshafting and go straight to BH tuning if I am reasonably confident. No tuning method provides me the confidence that BH tuning does. Tuned BH's are the bottom line.

[kevgsp]

Lots of people think the arrows fly like "darts"...till they take the feathers off  LOL   Just about anything will fly with 5" feathers.

[SteveB]

Problems come from people trying to combine the bs planing method with trying to acheive perfect bs flight. It doesn't seem to matter how many time the difference is explained, and it's simplicity, many fail to understand it.

[ChuckC]

Put big feathers on the arrow and you can shoot almost anything.  Bare shafting, in my mind, is not critical, and maybe not even important.  It is fine tuning, and if you are into that, listen up because several of these guys are good at it.

But. . .  a stock Corvette goes plenty fast and drives plenty sporty for me. .  fine tune it ?  for me. .  why.  for another.  hell yes !

If you are getting good arrow flight with broadheads. .  well. . . . . . go hunt.
ChuckC