arrow kicking down and right

[8leg-lover]

I'm right handed. Bow is 50# @ 28". Arrow is a Carbon Express Heritage 250 cut at 29". Montec 125 gr up front. No additional weight. Total arrow weighs 483 gr. I just got the bow. I didn't notice it yesterday. It appears to be most noticable at around 6-7 yards out. I shoot a big shot glove and three under.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Stump73]

Did your nock point move?

[8leg-lover]

Not as far as I know. I started messing with it but didn't have time to get a clear result. Had to go to work. In theory what would cause the arrow to do that, nock high or low?

[8leg-lover]

Also sounds like there might be some sort of shelf slap sometimes. Not sure if it's the shelf or strike plate side.

[thunder1]

Do you have an upper and lower nock points. Shooting 3 under the arrow moves down the string as it moves forward. As for the arrow moving to the right, how is your form? I plucked the string two days ago and gave a nice 10 pointer a new lease on life. Buck feaver what a rush.

[8leg-lover]

I think my release is pretty solid most of the time. Good back tension etc. I'll have to try a string nock on the low side. This is a 60" bow so the string angle is not as severe at full draw which would make it easier for the arrow to slide down the string. This is the longest bow I've owned. So would I be correct in saying that the shorter the bow the the harder it is for the arrow to slide because the string angle is sharper keeping the arrow nock "pinched" up against the string nock? Or this just a three under thing?

[jsirm20]

Just Yesterday I shot CE 250s, 29.25" from a toelke 48 lb longbow, which is cut to center. It took 300 grains up front to get them to bareshaft well.

[JimB]

Way too stiff.It sounds like your arrow may be so stiff that it is bouncing off the edge of the shelf.My guess would be,try point weights from 200 to 250 grs.I think jsirm20 may be onto something.

[8leg-lover]

Would CX 150s help? with 50 grain inserts. That would give me 175 up front with a softer spine.

[jsirm20]

My 48# toelke is pretty close bareshafting with 35/55 gold tips (500 spine) 29.25" with 100 gr inserts and 125gr points. Though they might be a little weak, in that case Ill build up the sideplate.

The 150s are a little stiffer than the 35/55's. I think you could get the 150s to work well, just leave them a bit long and bareshaft test them. Trim them till they are stiff enough.

this link is worth studying.

 http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

 I just bareshaft tuned for the first time and after more than a little confusion, It all made sense and Im happy I did.

[8leg-lover]

Thanks guys for the info!

[JamesKerr]

How close is your bow to center shot? I have a longbow that pulls the same poundage but is cut to center and it still takes a 50 grain brass insert and a 150 grain point at 29" for them to tune in.

[Kentucky Jeff]

nock high or low on your arrow flight is most often a function of the location of your nock point on your string.  If you are nock high on your arrows you move your nocking point on the string down to adjust and vice-versa.  

Other things can cause this too however.  You might be torquing the bowstring when you draw it back causing the arrow to flex before you even release it!  Be sure to RELAX your entire right hand all the way back to the elbow--but especially the wrist-- before you draw.  Just go limp and only use enough tension in you fingers required to hold the bowstring.  For people who torgue the bowstring like me, I also feel it helps if you get as much of a hook as you can get on the bowstring with your fingers.  For some reason this reduces the tendency to torque the string.  

Lastly, only make one adjustment at a time and shoot the bow.  You won't know what's causing it by making two adjustments and find it goes away...  If you move the nock point....then try it.  Change your drawing form...go shoot it.  But not both at the same time.