goose hunting with the recurve

[$bowhunter$]

well i get to finally go on my goose hunt next year and am starting to prepare. i have a few questions if any1 could please help
what heads should i use on geese? ive heard broadheads but the guy im hunting with has dogs and i dont feel comfortable using broadheads around the dogs.
whats a good number of arrows to have? i know the more the better but whats a rough number of what id need.
to flu-flu or not to flu-flu? should i shoot regular fletched arrows at the birds in mid flight or should i use flu flus to keep the arrows from flying far? if flu-flus what style fletch would be best?

sorry for all the questions and thanks for your help,
steven

[MikeW]

As far as Flu Flu's go it depends on how far you will be shooting at them, if it's past 20-25 yards I'd use Reg. fletching.

And for broadheads I'd use the biggest/widest 3 blade. The dogs should only fetch when told to do so. If that's not the case then yes that's a concern.

[Casper]

I don’t have any experience with geese but I do hunt Swans here in N. Carolina when I get a swan tag. Don’t know what to tell you about broadheads and a dog being around.

But take all the arrows you can take, because the more you have the more time you can spend shoot and not running after arrows.  An I would say no to the Flu Flu, use regular fletching

[guspup]

Let us know how you do. I plan on trying the same during late season here. Plus I have a new pup Otis that needs some field work :-)

[$bowhunter$]

yup well after further reading im ordering 4 dozen arrows. i plan to do 2 dozen with some 5 1/2 full size nanners. they seem too be the best compromise between flu flu and standard arrows. im also gonna make up some flu flus just for the close ariel shots. i considered trying the ace hed blunt with a ead shot if there sitting but im still unsure of this whole bh thing. i want a nice 3 blade but i dont wanna pay alot for somthing tht im gonna be shooting at a flying bird.

[Missouri CK]

Call mike at the nocking point.  He has a bunch of broadheads that are blems. Call him up and order some more stuff.  He's a good guy.  Fyi I can't see a goose getting a killed without a broadhead.

[JamesKerr]

I would recommend flu flu's 4 fletch 90 degrees for ariel shooting and standard arrows for birds on the ground. As far as points go I would look at the article in Traditional Bowhunter issue December/January 2008 entitled The Ultimate Upland Bird Head, but instead of the blunt go with some sort of broadhead.

[skydog6653]

I hit a goose in the throat with a blunt and it flew off. I wouldn't suggest anything other than a broadhead.

[reddogge]

You need a broadhead to kill a goose and being an ex retriever man anyone using a broadhead around a dog is looking for trouble. No goose is worth the life or sight of a good retriever.

[lk2315]

I don't know if it will work on geese, but I hunted pheasants with dogs and I took thunderhead broadheads, knocked the blades out of them and added a flatwasher between the head and the shaft. It really did a great job of bring pheasants down.

[fireball31]

I will say this. anything that eats a load of BB's in the face at 30yds and fly's another 1/4 mile before dropping, is gonna take a broadhead. I reccommend leaving the dogs at home on this hunt, and using the biggest 3 blade you can find. I'll let you know how it turns out as I'm gonna try to perforate some mallards with snuffers on saturday while jump shooting. I have a feeling I'll spend more time searching for my arrow than I will retrieving ducks. LOL

[Gentry]

I have shot geese. Well shot at geese and got a goose. the key for me was having good friends that knew how to set up the decoys and had them dropping in right in front of me. A blunt is not going to work.... If the dogs are not broke where you dont have to worry about them leave them in the dog box or tie them back while you are shooting. you are going to need broadheads.......

[oxnam]

You shouldn't use anything other than sharp broadheads.  Goose feathers and their thick down can absorb so much of the arrows energy that blunts will not be consistently effective.  

Absolutely no dogs should be used unless tethered.  A goose with a sharp broadhead sticking out could get a retriever killed very fast.

I think there are a lot of variable that should you should considerin choosing your fletchings.  How heavy of a bow are you shooting?  How far can you safely allow your arrows to travel and still be able to recover them?  How close will the geese be?  Does your state have any specific requirements for flu flu fletchings?

A regular three fletch wold be my favorite choice but I have never been in a hunting situation yet where it was practical for birds.  They simply fly to far for anything I've hunted.  

When I have had some wide open space, three full length 5" feathers have worked well.  They shorten up the arrows range and make them easy to find.  

If you are hunting fields, you absolutely cannot be losing broadhead tipped arrows (which is much more likely with regularly fletched arrows).  A lost or forgotten arrow could cost a farmer a time and money, neither of which will get you an invite back.  Also make sure you know exactly how many arrows you brought into the field so that they can all be accounted for.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I use a two blade glue on point that are easy to sharpen with a file, and heavy doug fir woodies. when you loose one in the hay field the woodies aren't near as hard on the mower or balers.... when they suck up an aluminum arrow you can hear em cussing for 1/2 mile.      oh please God, please God, PLEASE don't let that arrow hit a cow!

Does that sound remotely like I've been there before? Well.... God was listening that day, but it was mighty embarrassing having to go get my arrow before one of the cows ate it. those dad burn cows will chew on anything. That, and the neighbor was NOT happy....  

[Izzy]

Ive shot a boatload of Canadas with 10 and 12 gauge shotguns and Ill tell you  for certain, if its not shot through the spine or brain with only using a field point or blunt its gonna be outa there with your arrow stuck through it and it will survive for a long time in public view. Not a pretty sight. Id leave the dogs if your hunting fields and use a sharp broadhead, if your hunting water retrieve them with waders on or a boat if its too deep.

[ChuckC]

No blunts or field points for sure.  Also no full blown flu flu's, however a modified flu flu using three- 4" sections of full feather does slow it down but allows more range. From my experience, full flu-flus won't go far/fast enough to catch / kill the bird in flight unless you are in a spot where shots are VERY close.

Also,  although they have not yet been blood tested, I modified some older Woodsmans and Snuffers and think they will work great.

I removed the blade section from behind the point to just forward of the rear, leaving a pointed, sharpenable point and three projections at the rear to limit total pass thru and also maybe catch neck or wings to break a bone ?

ChuckC

[two4hooking]

Here is what I use:

Modified flu flus with 4 blade bear razorheads.

 
 

[Mike Vines]

The goose in my avatar was taken with an Ace Hex Head blunt.  It was the first of 5 I took that day (early goose season).  It was an in flight shot to the head (yes I amazed the hell out of myself on that one.  Using a broadhead in the presence of retrievers in my eyes is flat out stupid.  I don't care how good your dog is (in my eyes, mine is the best) they are still a dog.  Just think about how you are when a deer comes in.  Weather your going to shoot it or not is irrelevant.  You are still picking a spot possible practice drawing and letting down, but in YOUR mind, you got it.  A dog ain't that smart.  He sees a bird go down, his job is to go get it.  

You need to practice with blunts till you can hit a golf ball (goose head) consistently from 20 yards and under, or you are not doing the bird any justice.  

Hunt over decoys, wear camouflage cover anything not camo in natural material in the field.  Sit on your knees, and lay as low to the ground as possible.  Have someone else in a layout blind doing the calling for you, if you want, shoot once the landing gear is set and they are a couple feet from the ground, or let them land and then jump up.  They will run till they catch flight, but that is the fun of it.  To me a sitting bird is like a fish in a barrel.  You need to give the bird the "house odds".

Just please do yourself a favor.  If you are not consistent with your shooting abilities, practice till you can make that shot time and time again, and please (for Fido's sake) don't use broadheads.

As for fletching...I prefer three 4" full height flu flu's.  For the distance you will be shooting, they work perfect.  Using regular fletch will only frustrate you when you have to walk 200 yard searching for a feather instead of 60 and back in the game.

If you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to ask.  I will help where ever I can.

[reddogge]

The advice to tether your dog is flawed also. What happens when you release your tethered dog for the retrieve and he jams the broadhead into his jugular? Trust me, you will hate yourself.

[JParanee]

No broad heads with dogs

Leave dogs at home when u are using archery equipment

U need broad heads for geese and some kind of flu flu