arrow spine / tip weight question / carbon arrow question

[volcanomil]

I was able to purchase a real nice Thunder Stick III from a member here and want to craft some specific arrows for it.  The Specs of the bow are 62" and 56# at 28".  I have a D-97 10 strand padded to 14 from Oliverstacy ready to be put on.  I draw right to about 28".  I currently shoot a Martin Black Mamba 55# at 28" and Carbon Express 4560 arrows, 145gr grain tips and no weight inserts.  The arrows are cut to 29" and fly nice out of the Mamba.

I am one the fence as to what type of arrow shaft to purchase for the new bow set up.  I plan to use 100 gr. brass inserts, probably 160 to 170 grain broadheads/field points, 3 5" feathers.  I am interested in the GoldTip 5575 trad. series, but am concerned that if the GT 5575 is cut back to 29 or 30", even with all the weight up front, the shaft will show too stiff?  I would really like to be able to have the arrow about 1" to 1.5" max. length over my draw spec.  

In your opinion - do you think I should buy some Gold Tip 5575 or some more of the Carbon Express 45-60?  How about the point/weight combo, do you think this could be made to work?  Is there any other carbon arrow brand/spine I should be looking at?  It seems that with a 56# draw weight a variety of arrows could be made to work.

thanks for your help...

[onewhohasfun]

I shoot 55/75 out of a 53 @ 29" longbow. 100 grn. brass, 225 grn tips, arrows are full length. IMHO having a predetermined arrow length in mind can be a mistake using carbons. 55/75 should work for you but your tuning should determine your final length, not your mind.

[Ragnarok Forge]

I have never understood why folks are obsessed with having their arrows a set length.  It makes picking an arrow tough.  My wife, daughter and I shoot full length arrows.  My daughter draws 24.5 inches.  Using this technique we all shoot the same shaft with different weight heads. When I buy 3 dozen shafts they last forever since we can all shoot them.  No worries about someone running out of shafts.  

Start with the proper full length shafts of your choice.  Work to get them to tune at that length.  If you can't get them to tune, or want to use a heavier head carefully cut small lengths off until you get the arrow and head weight you want to tune.

[JimB]

I think you may be close with that setup up but only tuning will tell.

I do agree that one needs to be either flexible on shaft length or flexible with front end weight.Carbon spine groups are often 20#'s apart.To fine tune them to a specific setup,you have to be able to change front end weight,shaft length or a combination.

[Dimondback]

I just got some arrows perfectly tuned and flying like darts using Stu Miller's Calculator.V2. Some have had issues using this calculator but I spent a few hours manipulating numbers to come up with a flexible starting point and that I could manipulate. The calculator had me almost perfect with 3 Rivers Traditional Only .500's. The issues I DID have were form/release related and not arrow related. I highly recommend it for planning a tunable starting point.

[vintage archer]

I agree with Clay Walker we are obsessed with the idea that arrow hanging forward of the shelf is not good. I have had the same problems in the past and am still a little hung up on it. I come to believe that it is a necessary evil especially as we experiment with FOC requiring heavy spine arrows.  Carbon arrow manufactures state that just small amounts of arrow length should be cut off at one time when testing for spine. I have finally got used to it and pay little attention. I see no technical reason for not having arrows extra long. Most of us just are not used to see 3” or 4” extra arrow. But if it is a real hang up I am sure with experimentation you can eliminate overhang.

[kat]

I am shooting CE 4560's 32" long, with 100 gr. brass inserts and 200 gr. tips. My bow is 53#'s@29"
I am at 5/16" past center. They fly really well for me. I would think that .400 deflection would be good for 56#'s.