Major frustration BH arrow flight

[JJB2]

4 point, what would you do to correct if you're getting shelf contact on the outside edge of the shelf?  Seems that 's where mine always wears...

[4 point]

A brush or feather rest or one of the elevated rests. People will tell you that you can't shoot instinctively off a rest and that's just plain not true. Your mind will compensate for the higher arrow placement. If your getting a contact mark on the outside of your shelf your arrow isn't flying true. You will notice the improvement when you put a rest on plus your groups will get smaller.

[Trad 4 life]

Dk you never said if your shooting split finger or 3 under?????
i shoot 3under and need a nocking point above and below the arrow nock,with 3 under on release the arrow slides down the string and gives you the crazy nock high!
 
"JJB2" and "groundstalker" have you on the right track

[ozzyshane]

Doug check the weight of the tuskers because they are 125 without ads most ads are 45grs ..
Thanks Shane

[DKdc]

I am shooting three  under and the outside of my shelf is worn. I will get an elevated rest I guess. I will also weigh the heads.
thanks guys.
DK

[DKdc]

Shane I dont have a scale. I am shooting the 150 grain javalins. You are saying that the screw in insert makes them 45 grains heavier. If that is correct then they actually weigh 195. That would make them hit lower for sure. I will find a scale.
thanks for the tip
Doug

[Bill Carlsen]

I'm with MIke Walker on this.  I was about to suggest the same thing. I have found that if I can get a bare shaft to shoot straight I never have problems with broadheads. On the other hand, when I shot off the shelf some broadheads just didn't shoot well. With an elevated rest and plunger all that changed. Once I get the rest and plunger shooting bare shafts well I can shoot any broadhead of a reasonable same weight without problems. If you have some other broadheads try them out and see what happens. If some others shoot ok then you have to decide either switch broadheads or try an elevated rest of some sort in order to get Tuskers to shoot well. You might also find raising and lowering your brace height might make a difference.

[SlowBowinMO]

Originally posted by DKdc:
Shane I dont have a scale. I am shooting the 150 grain javalins. You are saying that the screw in insert makes them 45 grains heavier. If that is correct then they actually weigh 195. That would make them hit lower for sure. I will find a scale.
thanks for the tip
Doug

He's talking about heads without adapters, you're shooting the 150 factory screw in heads, two different animals.  They screw ins weigh about 160 raw and will weigh right about 150 after you sharpen them.

Like the others mentioned, bare shafting is the way to go, once you're properly bare shafted it's not likely you'll need to make any adjustments for broadheads.  I shoot three under also and some bows take to it much better with an elevated rest, so a good option to consider.

If you need further assistance please feel free to ask, I'd be happy to help.

[email protected]

[Manitoba Stickflinger]

How high is your elbow (string hand) at full draw? Draw back facing a mirror if you don't know. Just sounds like a form/release issue to me.

[DKdc]

I dont know how high my elbow is. I will investigate, it should be straight back and level like the arrow right? I have tried pretty much everything from brace height, nock adjustment all the way up to one inch with no success. I am sure it is a form issue. I think i will try an elevated rest and see what happens.  I am still pretty frustrated and had to give up for the day so I dont go crazy.
Thanks for all the help.
DK

[koger]

I believe a bear weatherest, or hair type rest would help you a lot. I had a buddy having fits with arecurve, trying to shoot off the shelf, was convinced that was the only way to go, even though the bow was shooting the lights out when I sold it to him, with a elevated rest, with the same arrows he could not get to shoot right. He kept calling, having fits, for about 2 weeks until he finally mentioned he was shooting off the shelf. His form is not that great, so we put a elevate rest back on and instantly the problems disappeared, with field points or broadheads. You need to be open minded and use what works, which is not always what we want.

[JJB2]

Try putting a small, thin piece of velcro or other material on your shelf directly above the throat of the grip but leave some space on the outside edge and about 1/4" - "1/8" of space between the shelf material and the inside of the riser.  The small piece of material will give you some elevation.  Also, tie the second nock under the arrow.  Someone mentioned earlier in the thread that the  arrow slides down the string at release when shooting 3-under.  I shoot three under, bow is tillered for 3 under and I still use a 3/4" nock height and a second nock.  My shelf was wearing on the outside as well.  

Elevated rest might also cure it as others have said but I've never much cared for the aesthetic of them myself.

[sagebrush]

I would also check your brace height. If your brace height is too low it won't matter where your nock point is, it will shoot bad.

[BLA]

I've come to realize that some BH's just don't shoot well out of certain shafts.

This problem is one that I honestly can't explain.

My solution: Buy different broadheads and cross your fingers. Of course, this is a personal solution that has worked for me.

Case in point: Muzzy Phantoms won't fly for me out of my setup. Magnus Stingers (same size) fly like a dream.

My two cents...

- JJ

[DKdc]

I am going to give an elevated rest a try. Thanks for all the input guys, I appreciate everyones willingness to help me.
DK

[wtpops]

I didnt read all the responces but have you tried 2 knock points. Check for a high elbow

[mike g]

I think with some people shootin a broadhead is a mental and form thing....
    I remove field point and put on the same weight broadhead and have no problems....

[Kentucky Jeff]

Quite often this false nock high reading is cause by the shooter torquing the bowstring when the pull the string back.    Go to the "Shooter's Form" forum and read/watch some of the videos on release.

Bottom line is this.  You string hand, forearm, entire arm needs to be completely relaxed.  NO TENSION except for the small amount required to keep you fingers hooked on the string.  You want your back muscles doing the pulling and your string hand/arm free of all tension.  

I had this exact problem and spent a couple weeks with a blind bale working on my form.  The problem went away.  I went through all kinds of contortions with my equipment and arrows/spines/paper tuning/broadhead weight/$$$$ etc.  And in the end it was my form.

[sheephunter]

Great forum with a lot of good info. Always something to learn.  

[Trad 4 life]

post a pic of you at full draw on here.
side,front and back maybe we can figure this out?

and like kentucky jeff said you could be torquing the string alot of new shooters do that not realizing its going on, it took awhile the break a friend of that after that was fixed he had great arrow flight