Author Topic: How to make your own weighted insert system-Pic Heavy (Read 521 times)

WJackson11x · « **Reply #20 on:** February 01, 2012, 07:36:00 PM »

To me it was a way to tune my arrows and know what weights would work best. I'm still in the process of tuning. It's just a cheap alternative until you can figure it out. Then I guess you can buy the correct inserts, field points, broadheads, or just use these inserts.

Cookus · « **Reply #21 on:** February 01, 2012, 07:59:00 PM »

That's a heckuva good idea and money saver too! Nice tutorial as well!

Austin · « **Reply #22 on:** February 01, 2012, 09:49:00 PM »

I'm thinking this could be done with arrows that already have the inserts installed and either use set screws or brass that's slotted so they can be installed from the point end... it would probably take a few tries to set the depth of the weight... but it wouldn't require the inserts to be removed.

WJackson11x · « **Reply #23 on:** February 01, 2012, 10:17:00 PM »

If you use hotmelt to install your inserts, its very easy to remove them. Just heat up the fieldtip enough to melt the glue, then pull the insert out. That makes it a lot easier.

macksdad · « **Reply #24 on:** February 02, 2012, 04:17:00 AM »

Great idea and nice job posting it up here.

Dan Adair · « **Reply #25 on:** February 02, 2012, 04:24:00 AM »

Anohter thing that works well if you know what weight you're looking for, is garden variety component bullets. The OD is alwayswithin .0001" and the weight varies less than a grain. I usually expoxy the shank end facing front behind an insert.

Bud B. · « **Reply #26 on:** February 02, 2012, 06:22:00 AM »

A 3' steel 3/16" rod bought at the hardware store for around $2 helps me get epoxied inserts out of carbons.

I've tried the drill bit trick without luck. The steel rod has the weight behind it to remove the inserts in about two pops. Even the toughest ones give in after a few thunks of the steel rod.

I'm sure you would need the 8-32 tap afterwards to clean out the threads from being smashed if you were doing the threaded rod weight system.

Craig · « **Reply #27 on:** February 02, 2012, 06:40:00 AM »

If they did rattle get some shrink tubing, just put it on the rod.

vintage archer · « **Reply #28 on:** February 02, 2012, 07:43:00 AM »

Wess, well done.The pictures are worth a 1000 words....Thanks

Over&Under · « **Reply #29 on:** March 22, 2012, 10:42:00 AM »

TTT

I just tried this and what a great idea...I now have a dozen new 50 grn inserts ready to go!

Thanks again for the idea!

arrowlauncherdj · « **Reply #30 on:** March 22, 2012, 11:34:00 AM »

To me this is just cool as crap because I can use any standard weight broadhead that I can buy at any sporting goods store and tune accordingly to standard weight field points. No searching endlessly for "trad" stuff that you have to buy online and pay shipping for. I can instead go to my local place and buy Thunderheads or Stingers if I want to kill a deer and still get 250-300gr up front if I want.

To me that is the beauty of this. Awesome!

Archie · « **Reply #31 on:** March 22, 2012, 12:57:00 PM »

I do exactly this, for about a year or so. No rattling, and works great!

Don't know if anyone else has already mentioned this, but I did end up having to cut a little off the threaded ends of my points or glue-on adaptors. The inserts aren't long enough to accomodate the length of the threaded rods and also the screw-in ends of the points.

If someone would just start making standard inserts just a little bit longer, pre-threaded...

ddauler · « **Reply #32 on:** January 11, 2013, 11:45:00 AM »

This works great and I hate paying 14 bucks a dozen for brass inserts. My easton RPS inserts are threaded all the way and long enough to get several treads in. Just wrap screw with masking tape to fill shaft glue brass screw in and then put epoxy on tape and insert slide her in! I use 125 glue on heads with 125 steel adapters. I plan to boost insert up to 100 for a total of 350 up front.

Doc Nock · « **Reply #33 on:** January 11, 2013, 01:53:00 PM »

nobody mentioned this, but if you get the 8-32 all thread, just buy a few 8-32 nuts. Put the nut on, cut ahead of the nut and the nut becomes the thread "chaser" to smooth off where you cut. Did that for years on other projects.

I've not sprung for the 8-32 tap, but I like the brass inserts for their length and strength...like the length because it serves like a mini-internal footing. But yeah, they've gotten ridiculous in cost.

Covey · « **Reply #34 on:** January 11, 2013, 08:24:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Craig:
If they did rattle get some shrink tubing, just put it on the rod.

Took the words right out of my mouth. Cool idea, might have to give it a try.

Jason

Bladepeek · « **Reply #35 on:** January 11, 2013, 09:26:00 PM »

If they will work in your arrows, Carbon Express inserts are threaded all the way through. At least mine are.

They are long enough for both the arrow head thread and the bolt thread and they fit nice and tight in Gold Tips too.

Possum Head · « **Reply #36 on:** January 12, 2013, 04:00:00 PM »

I will be doing this. Good thread!

Hummer3T · « **Reply #37 on:** January 12, 2013, 04:09:00 PM »

chanumpa · « **Reply #38 on:** January 12, 2013, 04:21:00 PM »

Very good.Good pictorial too.Thanks for putting it together.

DeerBacon · « **Reply #39 on:** January 12, 2013, 04:34:00 PM »

I will give it a try. Thanks for sharing.


LEFT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS	TRAD GANG CLASSIFIEDS ACCESS	RIGHT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS

News:

Author Topic: How to make your own weighted insert system-Pic Heavy (Read 521 times)

Users currently browsing this topic: