Connexion Hinge or Bow-Bolt

[Jason Kendall]

I am working on offering a 2-piece and I dont know a lot about them. I have 1 of each in my shop now and going to try one in a couple weeks.

No matter which one I decide to use it will be with a solid phenolic handle section so strength shouldnt be an issue. I know the bolt is hidden so thats a plus but I also hear with a solid phenolic handle flex can be an issue and cause a hair-line gap on the back in heavier bows?

The hinge isnt as clean looking but it would be a cheaper option since it will be an easier install. What are your thoughts?

[Jason Kendall]

If anybody has had any issues with either one, please let me know in a PM. Thanks

[flint kemper]

Jason, I have heard of issues with both of them. I have shot bows with both installed. The issue I had with the connection hinge was if the bow was unstrung and it will not stay together. The bow bolt I was always worried about messing up the threads unless you put the plastic protectors back on them.Prefer the looks of the bow bolt as well. Hope this helps to some degree.

[riverrat 2]

Very good idea doing a voting tally beforehand.
I own a bow bolt take-down and at first was
hesitant,thinking the idea the bow was cut in
half and the line up of the 2 sections. But once I had one in my hands that bolt is super. You do not even know it's a 2 piece after it is assembled.

[saumensch]

Ive only tried the connexion hinge, not the bow bolt out of these two.
with the Hinge i had no problems at all, it was well installed and did have no negative effects to the handling of the bow as far as im concerned. what i liked was the fool proofness of it, no way of setting it up wrong.

My thoughts (without being a bowyer) are that the hinge sits right where the most force pulls on the riser. On the belly side the compresses itself against itself and therefore there is nothing needed on this end.

With the bolt i would be concerned because the bolt sits in the middle while the main pulling force is on the back of the bow, therefore creating the gap you described also.

But as said, thats just my unproffesional 2cents.

[adkmountainken]

i like the looks of the bow bolt and i like a small handle, the hinge just looks bulky to me.

[Jason Kendall]

Thanks everyone for the info so far.

Actually Ken I could go smaller on the handle with the hinge since it doesnt need the material around it as much for strength, it could be easily blended in flush with the overlays. Slip on a rubber Shur-Grip you wouldnt know its there except for the small indents on the sides where the hinge part is recessed. The grip would also keep it from falling apart when unstrung.

[trad_in_cali]

Hello Jason, I take my bows to the side of a bike almost every day.
I currently have 1 hinge bow and had a Mohawk that had it. I just went downstairs, put my bow on the bike to show you the problem I constantly have.
The connexion makes the bow completely floppy in the middle as soon as you unstring it. I tried everything, turning it every which way, even a string keeper. Unless you take it apart completely and separate the 2 parts, it's floppy.
In my case, it defies the purpose of being easier to carry. I can travel on a plane easily, but day-to-day it's so ineffective, that I take my 1-piece instead. I vote for the T/D system that keeps the bow as a one piece, unless it MUST come down.
Marco
   

[Froggy]

I would vote for the bow bolt or the same type system that Big Jim uses. Not a fan of the hinge myself.

Lanier

[pdk25]

I prefer the bow-bolt and have several bows with it.  The only problem is the materials used to give strength give alot of added mass weight.  If I were a bowyer, I would almost certainly learn how to make bows with the sleeve method used by Big Jim or the type that is used by Nate at BAMA bows.  Solid and stable without adding too much mass weight.

[Gufunk]

Never had a hinge or bolt but love the locket socket mentioned above. Looks like a one piece bow and solid as a rock with strung...imho

[Shinken]

Ditto on the locket-socket Jason - I'd buy a Kanati TD with the locket-socket.

Shoot straight, Shinken

   

[Jason Kendall]

I like BigJims setup too, I talked to him about a couple weeks ago. I have profiled some handles out of 2x4's and cut it to the sleeve style but I feel it's better suited to bows like his that arent as far forward as mine. He told me what thickness of overlays he uses on his unless I did about six or seven thinner layers across the back I cant get to the thickness he recommends without cutting through the back glass.

I am not done trying it though, I do like it.

[BigJim]

I was at Kalamazoo several years back and was shooting a 60# longbow made by another reputable boyer. Brand new bow. I had shot it 5 times and thought I might buy it. The six shot, I felt it rock a little in my and and by the time I hit anchor, the riser exploded. my side Looked like I had been hit by a brick flying at the speed of sound and bloodied up my knuckles through my glove.
No big deal as everything grew back. The first time I tried a takedown system, I thought I would give the bolt a try since of course in my mind, I would do a better job. Over 2/3ds of the riser was phenolic. Never made it past the stringing post. Aparently, the glue had voids around the bolt.
I'm not saying they are bad ideas, just not as simple as it looks.
When choosing a system for a takedown, I had narrowed it down between the carbon sleave and the conexion hinge. I Chose the sleave due to superior strength and indiscernable junction.

Jason, the only problem with this survey is that it amongst the masses with the majority not knowing the ins and outs and problems with building a bow.

I'm sure, if properly installed most all systems will work for bows in the average and lower draw weights.

When they get loose, how do you tighten them up?
I over tightend The first bow bolt I took in on trade and damaged the stop slightly. Still worked fine, but had to be real careful when lineing up upon assembly. I have very limited experience with the hinge so I can't say anything about it except that it looks like a takedown.

Just my .02.
bigjim

[BigJim]

Jason, Call me when you get a chance. Preferably tomorrow before 3: as I will be elbow deep in swamp mud, peanutbutter, corn ,molasses and I hope HOGS tonight and tomorrow night..

bigjim

[Jason Kendall]

You arent making this any easier on me Jim   :D  

   

That knee deep mess you are heading in to sounds like fun! Good luck and I will give you a call. Thanks

[kadbow]

I have had several bow bolts and haven't had a problem with any of them.  This is at draw weights in the mid-50s.  I still even have a couple that are wood only risers (no phenolic) and they are going strong.

[Gila]

Jason; I believe Big Jim has made the most valid point - customer input is important and you will get numerous responses stating personal preferences, but positive bowyer experience on a Kanati style bow with any system is what you are looking for. I don't know how free bowyers are with this kind of information, but I would call as many as I could and see what they have to say! Just a thought. By the way, your Kanati bow is excellent.

[Jason Kendall]

Thanks Gila, I have been discussing it with a bowyer who builds a similar design and he has had no problems with the bolt except on one handle with solid ebony. I can build the bow with the reinforcements needed for any of the TD options, I am just trying to gather what people like, I should have added the composite sleeve to the list as well.

[ron w]

I talked to Chad Holm about the bow bolt and he said he had no problem when he went with phenolic in the riser. I have a Kohannah that is action wood woth the bow bolt and it works great, but it's only 45#'s. I like the connection hinge but I'm not sure it would be compatible with your forward handle design.