What about arrows

[marshratTC]

How should I go about ordering my first set of arrows? As I've stated a million times since I have started asking questions   :D , my DL on a compound is 27". Should I just base it off of that? Should I order my trad. bow and then go down to a shop to get the arrows made, or should I go off of this DL and get them at the same time? I'm am really eager to get started, but I don't want to get the wrong setup and arrow and become insanely frustrated when I start flinging arrows. I am looking at either 40lb or 45lb limbs.

[atatarpm]

If you are going to go with 40# bow I would start with 400 spine arrows at full length. Then start with one arrow and the weight head you plan on shooting say 200 grains that should give you about a 430 to480 grain arrow then shoot it at the target without fletchings and cut 1/4 inch at a time off untill it shows a little weak and then fletch that arrow. If it flies right then you can build the rest of them to that arrow.

[Fletcher]

TC, do you have a recurve and an arrow?  Put a spring type clothespin on the arrow so that the pin will stop against the bow and slide down the shaft as you draw.  Draw the arrow to full draw, then let down and measure from the valley of the nock to the clothespin.  This will be your actual draw length.  Repeat this several times to ensure a good measure and don't fudge, pulling longer than usual.  When you order your arrows, add a couple of inches.  You could even leave them full length.  The extra won't hurt and it will cut you some slack if your draw length changes as you develop your form or grow some more.  It is almost always easier to deal with too much than not enuf.  

If you order your new bow and arrows together, a KNOWLEDGEABLE shop will be able to steer you to the right setup.  With aluminum, I would probably put you in a 1916, but I know nothing about carbons.  You will be in a pretty low spine, tho.

I hope this helps.  Compounds and recurves are different animals.  Your draw could be the same or an inch or more different, + or -; all depends on each bow design and your form with each.

[The Whittler]

Alum. arrows try 1816 or 1916 with diff. point weights.

Carbon arrows maybe 1535=600 spine or 3555=500 spine.

You will want to keep the weight of the arrow no lower then 8gr per pound of bow weight (40# bow = 320gr arrow). You can go heavier but don't go lower arrow weight.

[Killdeer]

I am with Fletcher and the Whittler here. 1816 to 1916 aluminum, and a 1535 (.600) spine carbon. Different point weights will compensate for weak or stiff arrows. Once your form develops, then you can worry about actual draw length and fine-tuning your arrows.

Killdeer

He is brand new to trad and does not know any of this stuff yet.

TC, you need to get with a trad shooter in your area to help you figure out which arrows you need. To start with you only need something that is close and does not fly too erratically. As you learn form and get some kind of consistent anchor point then you will be able to really fine tune your arrow just right. Arrow tuning is one of the most difficult things  in trad (if you don't know how to accomplish it) and yet it is also one of the most important things to get good performance. If you learn corrct shooting form, it is likely that at some point into your endeavor, your draw length will be completely different than what it is when you first start. That is why i said to get some help and get an arrow that is close to start with. It is likely that you will have to change that arrow or maybe even go to a different arrow as your form improves and you get better.

Bisch

[slowbowjoe]

If you go carbon,you will need at least .600 spine, maybe as much as .700, for good flight. Your bow, bowstring, and draw length are important variables. I had two reputable trad sources set me up with  two different.500's for a 40# bow: one set shot so so, at full length, with around 225 grn points. Didn't shoot well out of my 45# either. Second set, cut to 28.5, different brand, shot lousy with 40# even with 250 grn points, and barely acceptably with my 45#. Lots of frustration, for sure.
Haven't gotten good flight yet with a set of carbons, but after months of frustration and information, I would strongly recommend talking to Braveheart Archery ( a sponsor on this site) for your carbons. He seems to have a real understanding of carbons and lightweight bows, and the right arrows in stock.

Another indicator for draw length: place a yardstick at the center of your breastbone; reach both arms straight out (parallel to floor):where your fingertips touch touch, at longest, is a good reference. You could have someone hold a tape measure for you and do the same thing. This method may be helpful, because you probably won't have  settled on your anchor point yet.

If you're not overwhelmed with info yet, maybe tell us a little more about what you find your draw is, and more detail about the bow: cut to center or past center, and what string... and folks will help be more specific.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by Bisch:
He is brand new to trad and does not know any of this stuff yet.

TC, you need to get with a trad shooter in your area to help you figure out which arrows you need. To start with you only need something that is close and does not fly too erratically. As you learn form and get some kind of consistent anchor point then you will be able to really fine tune your arrow just right. Arrow tuning is one of the most difficult things  in trad (if you don't know how to accomplish it) and yet it is also one of the most important things to get good performance. If you learn corrct shooting form, it is likely that at some point into your endeavor, your draw length will be completely different than what it is when you first start. That is why i said to get some help and get an arrow that is close to start with. It is likely that you will have to change that arrow or maybe even go to a different arrow as your form improves and you get better.

Bisch

tc - bisch has the right scoop for ya.