CE 250 spine difference compared to GT 5575

[Smitty]

Is there really much differance in spine between  a carbon express heritage 250 and a gold tip 5575. I'm shooting 54@30 on a r/d longbow with a b50 string. I'm not having much luck figuring out the stu calcualtor or I might be able to get my answer there. If anybody has compared these two how do the react for you? Thanks

[Jim Wright]

The 5575 is .400, the heritage 250 is .372 if my memory is correct. The heritage is a fair bit heavier as well, 11 g.p.i. I believe and I can't remember how much less the gold tips weigh.

[Steelhead]

I think you can get either one of those arrows to work for you cut to 31" and playing with point weight.

I have shot both and draw 30" and shoot bows about the same poundage as you but with 8 strand FF strings in general.

I really like the Heritage 250 arrow for the weight of the shaft.I typically use about 200-225 grains up front including the 50 grain brass insert.The GT 55/75 is a good arrow as well.

I only shoot CX Heritage 150s and 250s now though.They work excellant for me and I dont wanna play around with any other shafts for now.I casn get either one of those to work for me and do what I want.Whether its more speed and  better trajectory with the 150 or more energy and penetration with the 250.The 250 will make for a quiet shooting bow and pleasant shooting bow.It will weigh around 600 grains with a 150 gr head and 50 grain insert.For hunting its superb!

I believe Jims memory is serving him well as far as spine deflection of the CX 250 and 55/75 GT

[Smitty]

Thanks for the replies. I tried a friends CE 250's with 250 gr points and they seemed to be fine. Just looking at the charts it seemed like it might be a little stiff.

[BigJim]

gonna have a hard time getting the 250 to shoot out a 54" longbow. Gonna be stiff. If you are watching them fly with feathers and field points, you're not getting the whole story.

Having said that, stranger things have happened.

bigjim

[awbowman]

What Big Jim said.

[Smitty]

Big Jim,what would you recommend?

[scedvm]

Smitty, as a long draw guy myself I think if you are drawing a true 30" then the CX 250's or the 5575's will both work fine just play with the tuning.  I draw 31" and shoot 32"+/- arrows and that drastically changes things vs. most of what you read on here.  You will need significantly more spine than someone drawing 28".  Start full length and cut slowly playing with point weight and you should find what works best.

[JamesKerr]

I think the carbon express 250's will be a good fit at around 31" with a fair amount of point weight and a brass insert.

[Steelhead]

If your bow is cut to center or past center it will handle the stiffer spine of the CX 250 better.If its cut 1/8th from center you are gonna want it to bend a little more to clear the sightwindow and rest cleaner.Some of the more traditional looking longbows and mild R and longbows are cut 1/8th out from center.On those I almost always shoot a lighter spine than other bows that are cut to center or past center and of the same poundage.

If you can use a skinnier high performance string instead of the B-50 it will allow for a stiffer arrow due to increased performance.

A bows performance does play into it.Some bows at the high end of the performance range speed wise want a stiffer arrow than other bows of the same poundage.Like a Centaur,Border recurve or Whippenstick Inferno in my experience.I have shot 250s out of those bows and get great flight.They are around 50 #s at 30" draw.

I think leaving the arrows long on the 250s is gonna make a big difference.Shortening a carbon stiffins it up pretty fast.

[BigJim]

Smitty, I want to appologise. Some how I missed the 30" draw thing and want to recant my suggestion. The 250's will work although I think they will be on the stiff side and require extra length and more pt weight. Not really a problem unless you don't want extra length and pt weight.
I personally would opt fot the extra length and pt weight. Don't feel that you can just cut it short and make up for it with weight either. Use length adjustment for major tuning and pt weight for fine tunening.
(this is a guess and strickly such, but I would think that a full length with 250g totall front weight would be very close) If you want a lighter set up, use the gold tip.

Not to say that this is exactly how it will turn out, just normally how it turns out.
If everyone was the same and all bows were the same. The calculators would work out every time but alas it is still trial and error.
BigJim

[JCJ]

SMitty:

I am shooting a 66" ACS-CX. It is 46#  28" and I am drawing it 31" so at my draw it is 53#.

The sight window is cut 3/16 past center but I build the strike plate out so that it is cut to center.

I shoot full length 32" Beman ICS .400 with standard inserts and a 250 gr. tip.

If I switch to CX Heritage 250's full length (32-3/4") and use the standard insert and 250 gr. point they are too stiff.

I actually prefer the lighter shaft and higher FOC of the Beman ICS or CX Maxima 250's.

Good luck.

[Smitty]

Thank you for all the great information. If a fletched arrow is to stiff will it group to the left or will it cause other problems?

[BEN]

If you are right-handed shooter, and arrows are stiff, they will group to the left.

Also, I shoot a 54# longbow @ 28" and I use Heritage 150's cut 29" and 250 gr. up front.Gives me about 570 gr. arrow.
 I used to shoot a 63# recurve and used full length Heritage 250's with 250gr. up front.
I think you could make either work for you depending on how long you cut them and how you load them up front.