Yes, Bud, I am using HH broadheads and they are a good bit longer. However, in the back quiver, all the arrows are laying at, what, a sixty-seventy degree angle? For some reason, that makes relative length a little harder for me to judge in the very brief time I am devoting to arrow selection.
Withdrawing an arrow from my quiver, nocking it on the string, (I nock above, for this reason), and coming to full draw, without ever taking my eyes off the "spot", is a big part of my practice. In truth, I have never succeeded in getting a second arrow into a deer before it was out of range, but that ability is bound to come in handy one of these days, and I train for it.
When I go for an arrow, I'm going for ONE nock and do not do a lot of comparative analysis as to relative arrow length. That is why I am going to give Killdeer's suggestion a serious try. It has the potential for virtually instant discrimination between a safe-to-handle small game blunt and the nock of a broad-headed arrow--when my eyes are locked on my quarry. I don't know if I will be able to keep the Hex Heads from "tinking" against one another, though, but I will give it an honest evaluation.
If it works, it is an elegant solution to my small game hunts here in the desert. The Hex Heads are very effective on cottontails, but I am reluctant to engage jack rabbits and coyotes with them. As a result, I normally carry only broadheads--which can get real expensive when you are trying to connect with a running bunny.
I hesitate to mention it, but on my hunting grounds, unfortunate consideration must also be given to other incredibly rare, but potentially serious situations where instant access to broadheads could prove essential....
But never mind that, you're gonna love those hex heads!
Bob