The following is the reply Ron sent me when I had asked his advice on using the KME broadhead sharpening jig and sandpaper. I hope it helps some of you.
Hi Rustam,
Yes there's a slightly different procedure for sharpening single bevels. It's actually pretty easy once you understand the process and do a couple successfully.
The most important thing is: Don't leave the 60 grit till you have raised a burr the entire length of the BHD. This is where 90% of the job is done. Finer grits only polish and refine the cutting edge created with the coarsest grit.
Using the grits you mentioned, I would start removing the burr at the 400 grit stage. Don't over-do it, just a few swipes on the unbeveled side to clear the burr. You will feel resistance and an aggressive cutting "feel" on your first couple of strokes which will diminish as the burr is taken down. Then check the bevel side with your fingernail for a tiny burr just behind the cutting edge. Now lightly remove that new burr with just 1 or 2 very light into the edge passes.
Advance to your 600 grit. Polish (back/forth strokes) the bevel side till you've raised another tiny micro burr on the unbeveled side, then rotate the clamp and clear it again with all into the edge strokes, and be sure to go very lightly. Follow this same routine with every grit after 400.
I would go to 1000 grit at least and 2000 is better. Whatever grit you end with, finish up just as though it was a double bevel... 1 into the edge pass on the bevel side, then 1 into the edge pass on the unbeveled side, repeat. Do this about 10-12 passes total, decreasing pressure with each pass. The idea is not to allow a burr to build up on either side of the blade. The blade should be very sharp at this point
Then using all backward- away from the edge strokes, strop both sides of the blade on a piece of leather or better yet corrugated cardboard. (a large flap off of a cardboard box works great). Again finish up stropping with alternating passes: bevel side, unbeveled side... about 8-10 total. The hair should come off your arm pretty effortlessly.
One more note: If you soak the paper for a couple of minutes prior to laying it on the glass, it will "stick" tight to the glass when you smooth it out and you won't need to hold it down. (you can also tuck both ends of the sheet under the edges of the glass after smoothing it out). Let me know how you it goes. Thanks!
Ron