Stu's calculator?

[wildgame]

How much faith do you guys put into this calculator? Its been close for several bows for me,but a bit off for my new bow!

[americanhunter7]

I'm sure many others will post this, but here's what I'll say. It'll get you close, but not all of the time. Lots will depend on your shooting form, consistency in your form, etc. You will also have to enter the information about your bow, arrow, with or without additionals, and string types exactly as they are to get things close.

I'll say this, sometimes it has been right on, and sometimes it's been WAY off. It is a great resource to use and it's fun to tinker and play with different set-up and then go check to see if they work for my set-up. Have fun, be patient and enjoy this great resource.

[Huntingnut]

It's a good starting point, but it isn't perfect.For me, it tends to recommend arrows that are a little overspined, but that is the only problem I've had.

[Joeabowhunter]

I have found it close but can shoot less spine but for my arrow weight and FOC it's right on.  Sure is a nice tool to have.

[Night Wing]

Since Stu's calculator came out, I don't bare shaft tune anymore.

Since I shoot aluminum arrows, the calculator has been spot on for giving me a starting point. All I have to do is pick my point weight and then fine tune by adjusting brace height.

[Bladepeek]

The newer form with the "personal form factor" is great. If it consistently comes up stiff or weak, you can crank in a fudge factor until it agrees with what actually flys right for you. Then you can play "what if" all day long with different shafts, points, insert weight, bow and draw weight, etc and be confident that you will be really close.

[Swamp Yankee]

Used correctly, I've found the calculator to be a great start to the tuning process, and it's been spot on most of the time for me.  Put in the wrong number (expecially the center cut and strike plate numbers) and it can come up with some very wrong answers.

[wingnut]

Yep I've helpped a bunch of guys get the right arrow to start with using the calculator.  But like most computer programs if you guess at your input you will get garbage out.

It's like guessing at your taxes and being surprised when you get audited.  LOL

Mike

[barebow17]

How can I get a copy of the calculator?

[wildgame]

Here is the link  http://heilakka.com/stumiller/
Like I said its help on several setups, maybe I've put in somthing wrong this time!

[metsastaja]

Please download the instructions and READ THEM. you can get them at the same link above.


Here is a link to a pdf for bow center cuts compiled by members and bowyers. It will download it to your computer.

 http://heilakka.com/Bowcentercut.pdf

[Bowwild]

Like a lot of folks I've used various systems and charts, advice, etc. over the years.  For me Stu's Calculator is the best tool for "gaming" different potential set-ups I've ever used.

Like others have said, you need to have accurate inputs.  The trickiest four are:

1. Center cut -- I'd recommend measuring rather than using the bowyer's spec. Remember to include the shelf-plate in your measurement.

2. Insert footing or not -- if you use standard inserts there is no footing. If, however you use extended length brass, aluminum, or steel inserts (HIT style for example) you will have a .5 - 1.0" internal footing.

3. Draw weight. It is common for a bow to draw to a different "weight" than is marked on the bow.  You need to accurately measure this to input. I typically only measure at my exact draw length and list the bow at that draw length and weight.

4. Draw length. I used a video camera and several shots to determine my exact draw length. You can put clips on your shaft and draw the arrow, moving the clip. That sets the draw length for you. But, you need to be honest with yourself and know if you draw to this point from shot to shot, even when you're not measuring the draw length.

Lots of folks get by without doing any of this stuff. Get close by experience, advice and the charts and start tuning.  The Calculator allows me to virtually experiment with different set-ups and saves me headache and expense.

Of course even with Stu's you have to go through the process of checking and adjusing tune.

[wildgame]

Ok I may see where Im off! So Bowwild if I'm using a mfx with a hit insert I would need to put a footing figure in?

[Bowwild]

Wildgame,
I use the Beman MFX Classics as well. I use the entire brass insert at 75 grains on some arrows and 100 grains (longer one from Big Jims or 3RIvers).

I use 1" for the 50 grain (break off nib.
I use 1.5" for the full 75 grain insert.
I use 1.6" for the 100 grain "after-market" 100 grain brass insert.

To get to those measurements you have to make sure you not only measure the difference in length of a normal aluminum insert (7/8") but add the depth the little green tool sets the HIT inserts into the shaft. Basically, these inserts not only add weight but they effictively stiffen the arrow spine by having sort of a shortening affect on your arrow.

[wildgame]

Thanks everything is working out on the calculatur now! It was saying I needed to cut off a inch of my arrow compared to what the bare shaft was showing!

[barebow17]

Thanks for the link. I can't figure it out.

[Night Wing]

Originally posted by barebow17:
Thanks for the link. I can't figure it out.

In order to use the calculator program, you have to have Microsoft Excel or the free Open Office program to automatically open the calculator program.

[JamesKerr]

I use the calculator to get me close. It has always been spot on for me. But, I always tune after selecting my shafts based on what the calculator tells me.