Author Topic: Footing a GT ? (Read 590 times)

Three Finger · « **on:** February 22, 2012, 07:26:00 PM »

I am planning on footing my GT 3555 with 1 in of 2117. I have 100g brass inserts that stick out 1/4 in past the shaft end. Do I put the footing over the brass insert also or just to the end of the shaft. I would think if they went over the insert aswell then I could never get it out. What do you think?

lpcjon2 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2012, 07:32:00 PM »

Ask yourself this, is the brass insert gonna be a weak point if you dont cover it?

Three Finger · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2012, 07:37:00 PM »

I guess you are right. I just didn't know what to do. If they fly right and the setup is good. Then I guess you don't need to take them out.

lpcjon2 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2012, 07:41:00 PM »

What are you gluing them in with? The worst you would have to do is use a small pipe cutter tu cut the aluminum from around the end of the shaft to take the insert out. Just mark the footing(with a sharpy or razor blade) where the shaft ends and the insert begins.

Three Finger · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2012, 07:50:00 PM »

I thought I would epoxy the footing on. Sounds good about the marking the end of the insert. I will do that. And I have the small pipe cutter.
Thanks Ipcjon2. It makes better since to me now.

lpcjon2 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2012, 07:53:00 PM »

Most of the time I learn from thinking about what others are doing, it kinda works both ways.

Three Finger · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2012, 09:25:00 PM »

Running into a problem. The 2117 will fit over the shaft but not over the 100g brass insert. I do have a 2216 that will fit over both but just has a little space in there on the shaft side. I may just foot the nock end. If I foot the point end only to the end of the shaft and not over the insert. Will it still be a strong???

Killdeer · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:09:00 PM »

Use the 2117 and let the insert show. I think it will not matter a hill of beans structurally, and it looks fine.

BTW, if the aluminum did cover the insert, removal would still be the standard heat-the-field-tip-until-the-glue-melts-but-don't-cook-the-shaft drill.

Killdeer

Three Finger · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:19:00 PM »

Thanks Killdeer. Will do

JIMH · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:40:00 PM »

Use a case chamber tool for reading. Level the inside of the 2117 a little.works great. Chamber the outside of the back end a little also.

JIMH · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:43:00 PM »

Use a case chamber tool for reading. Level the inside of the 2117 a little.works great. Chamber the outside of the back end a little also.

JIMH · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:46:00 PM »

Should say reloading not reading.

JIMH · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:56:00 PM »

Should say reloading not reading.

JIMH · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2012, 10:57:00 PM »

Use a case chamber tool for reading. Level the inside of the 2117 a little.works great. Chamber the outside of the back end a little also.

JimB · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2012, 11:13:00 PM »

I think Killie is right.I have done them both ways with the 100 gr brass inserts.I first put the footing up to the back of the insert rim but decided it would make a smoother transition if the footing covered the brass rim and were flush with the front of it.

I now chuck the insert in a small drill press and turn down the insert rim with my broadhead file,just like in a lathe.I use one of my aluminum footings to check the diameter occasionally.It only reduces the weight about 4 grs.

I epoxy the insert and footing at the same time and I plan on them never coming out.

Footing behind the insert rim.

Footing is flush.

Three Finger · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2012, 05:16:00 AM »

Thanks JimB. Those Pics are just what I wanted to see.

ozy clint · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2012, 05:49:00 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Three Finger:
Running into a problem. The 2117 will fit over the shaft but not over the 100g brass insert.

i was going to tell you this but as i read on i see you noticed this little problem.

i foot mine flush with the BOP. i use a bench grinder to grind the insert down flush with the shaft diameter after the insert is glued in. then epoxy the footing on.

Bldtrailer · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2012, 10:21:00 AM »

I have footed all my 3555 and never had a problem with the insert showing. The carbon is footed to prevent what I call cabon flowering/slitting on hard hits and pushing the insert into the shaft. I use 2inches just because it weighs close to 25grains(24 on my scale) I also just started footing the nock area w 1/4 all 2117. I use my drill press to smooth and taper the ends(I use a small section of a 3555 in the chuck to hold the 2117 while working on it). I use Iron insert because it's heat Reversible I can pull inserts without damaging the shaft (by heating a feild pnt slowly) ,BUT outserts can only be removed safely from broken shaft(to reuse)

NormanDale33 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2012, 10:56:00 AM »

I don't want to hijack this thread, but what size OD do the GT's have? I am shooting Trad-only 300's and would like to foot them to prevent breaks on errant shots while stump shooting and for hunting. I thought that my 2317 were to loose for the 5/16 OD of the arrows. Is it supposed to be this loose? Thanks for all the knowledge and pics so far.

I guess calculating it for a 5/16 shaft, then a 2216 should work perfectly.

JimB · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2012, 11:06:00 AM »

Three Finger,this may show it even better.When I first footed behind the insert rim,the front edge of the footing seemed like it could catch on skin or connective tissue and cause some drag,so I beveled the front of the footing as well as the rear.This feels real slick and I'm sure took care of the problem if there was one.

Also pictured is a flush footing with and without head.


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