Please help me tune my Silvertip

[Conner Parry]

I have a 60" Schafer Silvetip take down recurve, it is FF rated and pulls 56lbs @ 28" I have a clicker set up so I am getting a full draw every shot. I have it set up with a Bear Weather rest and my knocking point height seems to be spot on, but the arrow spine is way off. I am shooting a CX Heritage 250 cut at 29 1/4" and a 145 grain point, about 505 total grains. The point of the arrow hits exactly where I look but the knock end is close to a 45 degree angle to the left. I changed out for a 175gr field point and it still does the same thing consistently. I need some help to bare shaft tune this bow, and any arrow recommendations will help, carbon, aluminum, etc. Thanks in advance.

[cacciatore]

Conner,that arrow is way to stiff for your set up,change arrow or up load the point,I say at least 100 grs.

[Danny Rowan]

Conner,

Get you some AD trads and put a 100 gr insert in them and a 250 gr head. I do not bare shaft tune, after years of shooting I know what works on my bows. I have a 55#,and 58# Tip recurve and a 62# Tip longbow and these arrows fly like darts from all three of those bows as well as out of my 55# Talltines and 58# and 64# Brackenbury Quests. As for the 250's, what you describe could mean a weak spine if you are a right handed shooter, if left handed it could mean stiff, but it could be a false indicator, have you shot any of those fletched out of the bow?

[Tim]

I believe nock left out of a right handed bow is weak.  What brace height are you using?  Where is your nocking point located?  Do you have one of Dave's strings on the bow? (usually black and white and 16 strands) What silencers do you have on the string?

I've pretty familiar with Dave's bows.  I'd keep the brace just shy of 8" from the throat of the grip.  If your shooting split fingers try a 5/8 nock point.  I'd put a set of rubber silencers on the string.  Give that a try and your particular arrow should be pretty darn close.

[A.S.]

I agree with Mr. Tim, nock left indicates weak for a right hand shooter.

A lot can depend on your string/silencer combo when tuning.

[JamesKerr]

Don't worry about the angle at how the shaft impacts the target. Back up to about fifteen or so yards and shoot a group of about six arrows with half of them fletched and the other half being bare shafts. Then tune according to where your bare shafts group around your fletched arrows.

[snakebit40]

Tim knows his stuff! I've been bugging him for a month now trying to get my set up finalized. From my experience in the last month a string makes a HUGE difference and what silencer you use do to.

[Tater]

Conner,
    I don't mean to confuse the issue, but how long have you shot the clicker? How comfortable are you shooting the clicker? Could you be hooking the string at full draw to make it clik? Sounds like your release could be affecting your arrow flight. In no way am I being critical of your shooting just trying to help you eliminate any variables.

    Pat

[AMB]

I agree with Tim, nock left is weak.  My experience with the CE Heritage shafts is that they are weaker than what they claim.  I had some Beman ICS 500's with a 175 grain point and the bare shaft will shoot like a bullet.  A 150 Heritage is supposed to be a .487 spine deflection, yet it shows very weak, being the same length and point weight of the Beman.

[steadman]

Good advise Conner. Guys I know for a fact he is shooting a D 75 thin 14 strand with padded loop string  

[Tim]

I really prefer rubber silencers on a silvertip.  Silvertip limbs do tend to have some vibration and rubber silencers will calm them down very nicely.   By adding heavy rubber silencers you will slow the string down and most likely your current arrows will work.  If you leave the silencers long you can keep trimming them as you tune.   Putting them more towards the middle of your string will also slow the string down making your current arrows more inline with what you will need.  Your goal is to have your bare shaft fly slightly weak (nock left) and nock high to your target.   When you add feathers they will slightly stiffen your shaft making it perfect.  

If you'd like to talk in person pm me and I'll send you my  phone number.  

Silvertips are very easy to tune, so you should be all set in a few days!

[Conner Parry]

I really appreciate all of the comments and tips for helping me out. I think I have it narrowed down. My shafts are slightly weak and so I am going to trim them down a little to stiffen them up, raise the brace height and give this another try. Thanks again for all of the help.

[cjgregory]

I use Tims ideas as well.  MOving the silencers up and down is a valid tuning option.

My silvertip is the only bow I own.  Personally I just put a strip of moleskin on the riser and the shelf and shes gravy to tune. So simple it almost hurts.

[floodman]

Tim is always right.He came from the womb holding a Bow..Also get A.S.(Allen) To build you a string for that Tip,He came out wrong handed but still knows his stuff...

[md126]

tim,  when you say rubber silencers do you mean limb savers or cat whiskers on the string. just curious.

thanks, mike

[Tim]

Cat whiskers Mike, The old fashion kind.     :rolleyes:

[md126]

gotcha tim, thanks.  

[maxwell]

Hold on here, Tim can't decide if he a righty or lefty.

[floodman]

Yep..Forgot about His Lefty/Righty Talent also,,It's all about Tim,,Talented people make me Sick..   :D

[Tim]

Pick on Tim day?   No more lefty, except maybe for fun!   My son has taken over my 3 lefty bows.   A Maxwell Silvertip, a Shipp Shrew and a sweet little bamboo backed osage longbow.   I'm recovering from shoulder surgery number 2,  to many years of too many arrows out of heavy bows.