BLUE Hot Melt???

[Bullfrog 1]

I had a thread on here about using gorilla glue for inserts. I ruined 2 arrows last night with it .NEVER again. I used the original hot melt this morning and it worked but gets the arrow pretty hot(carbons MFX). Who has used the BLUE hot melt? Does it hold as well as the original?  Thanks.   BILL

[L. Perry]

Just did up a dozen full metal jackets with it. Have been shooting for a couple of weeks, Nice to work with and no problems yet.    

[Craig]

Bill, I use the low heat glue stick from 3R's. I heat the insert and heat the stick and put it on the insert. Push it in and done.  No problems.

Don't heat the shaft.

If you are going to Baltimore this weekend look for it down there. I know Jim Rebuck from J&M Archery uses the low heat stick. He might have some for sale.

[Scbenton]

Using the blue hot melt I've had inserts and field tips come off adapters using the hot melt.  Granite they were shot in to target butts(I think that's what they are called, looks like stacked cardboard material)

So when I'm experimenting with tips/inserts and I weight I use the blue hot  melt but for permanence an durability  I use insert glue.

[bowhuntingrn]

Never used the original hot melt on anything but wood, so I can't really compare the blue vs. the original. I have used the blue on carbons though (GT Trads) with brass inserts and had good luck with it. Using an insert tool, I heated the insert just enough that it would melt the glue when touched / rubbed against it and immediately inserted into shaft with a twisting motion to spread glue evenly. Then place in a glass of room temerature water to cure the glue as per the instuctions. I believe the instructions said to wipe off excess before placing in water, I did it after curing. Have shot the arrows into "block" targets, my target bag, and "boat dock" foam targets without any problems. To remove, I used the same insert tool, heated the shaft of the tool while pulling lightly against the insert. As soon as I feel a little give the insert slides right out. I've gone through this process several times with the same batch of arrows while tuning with no visible damage to the shafts and they're still holding well. All that being said, if you want something more permenant, I really like the Loc Tite Ultra Gel in the black bottle. It is a rubberized formula which has worked well for me and it's available just about anywhere from Wal Mart, to Lowe's, to Home Depot.

[Doc Nock]

Bohning is one provider of the darker brownish hot melt (low heat)

Big Jim sells it on his site that is reputed to work well.

We used it at a large retailer where I worked and we would cut, tap carbon and use hot melt in a hot pot and heat the insert in a torch, dip in hot melt pot, insert, wipe and hand to customer.

They were shooting into our masonite layers back stop like described above in 15 min and in 2  yrs part time, I only ever heard of 2 pull outs!

I do use a q-tip with alcohol to clean the inside of the shaft...but that is it. Works for me and I only ever had ONE pull out in an oak stump...glad it did let go!  

[**DONOTDELETE**]

i'm curious how you ruined two arrows using the gorilla super glue? The blue cap impact resistant gives you about 8-10 seconds adjustment time, and is excellent glue.

Was this the stuff you used?

 

don't get me wrong... i prefer the hot melt over epoxy or super glue myself, and I'm with Doc on the Bohning glue. it's good stuff.

[The Vanilla Gorilla]

Curious as to how the arrows themselves are getting hot.  I use hot melt with mfx shafts as well.  I only heat the hot melt up enough to coat the insert...I can't recall any kind of heat transfer.

[lt-m-grow]

Originally posted by Craig:
. I heat the insert and heat the stick and put it on the insert. Push it in and done.  No problems.

Don't heat the shaft.
.

I use a similar method with high temp hot melt.  I just place the insert into the shaft enough to hold it.  Then heat the insert over a torch.  Place glue, from  a glue gun on the insert.  Push in.  No problems.

I don't ever heat the shaft unless I want them out, which happens very seldom.   Then I heat the shaft, and they do come out, but it ruins the finish on the MFXs for the most part.  The ruined finish isn't that big a deal, because the only reason I take them out is if I have some sort of problem.

[southpawshooter]

Heating a field point installed in the insert will break the Gorilla super glue bond.

[Bow man]

I have been using the Blue Hot melt for about 6 months love it!!!

[horseman12193]

I use on Wood and Carbon works good

[Craig]

It-m-grow,  Take out your point and heat the threads and screw back in. Wait a few seconds and pull out the insert. I would never heat a carbon shaft.

[KHALVERSON]

ive been using the blue hot melt for about 3 months now
ive tried about everything else and think its the best thing going for carbon
zero problems since i started using it
kevin

[old_goat2]

I've been using blue bohning stuff for a couple of months and when I hit something hard the aluminum inserts are breaking free, I use a bore brush, followed by 99% alcohol before gluing the insert in and then dunking in water just like the instructions say. Just got some new arrows and brass inserts, going to see if they stay in better than the aluminum

[BigJim]

I sell the blue hot melt, but haven't used it. I use the quick stick hot melt and couldn't imagine a better insert glue. Having said that, we probably only do about 700-900 dozzen inserts a year.
I'll let you know when I'm done testing  

bigjim

[HenrikBP]

I've had good luck with the blue hot melt.

I prep both shafts and inserts before installing; I brush the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and clean with at least 2 cotton swaps soaked in alcohol. I also gently scuff the insert with sandpaper and clean that with alcohol as well.

I use an adjustable heat gun to heat/melt the glue and heat up the insert.

I tested and adjust the heat gun to the point where the temperature will *just* soften and slightly melt the glue. At the same time I warm up the insert so that the glue stays melted when I apply it. I warm the shaft *slightly* (keep it further from the heat gun), and then install the insert.

I shoot McKensie targets on the 3D range, and I have yet to have an insert come out.

Henrik

[Forrest Halley]

I use the blue CoolFlex for tuning only. When I find the right length and insert weight I dip the arrow in boiling water and pull the insert. After cooling drying and cleaning I reassemble with epoxy.

[bulldog18]

Been using the Bohning Coolflex for about 6 months now and have had no issues so far.

[3R Shooter]

I love the Cool Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex (Blue Ferr-L-Tite). Holds strong for field points, BUT I have lost 2 broadheads in targets. I have reinstalled my inserts with epoxy now as I have all the tuning I want done.