Jason....dont understand why doing a double over coat (scuff coat) with the dalys when you're doing it waterbased finish? You gain little in durability overall to protecting crests. The gloss is achieved with one coat or two coats of the waterbase....dries faster, and doesnt distort colors. I 'scuff coat' mainly to give my caps/crest an even shine compared to the hole shaft.
Dalys is a great arrow finish but it does have a couple flaws.
First it burns. Try a water based arrow...profined arrow...and an epoxy arrow. And you'll understand what target burn is (In 3d targets). I put them in order of burn..so its not as bad as most waterbases...but it still stinks!
second, it yellows over white. The more coats you apply the more yellow/amber your white becomes (I use white bands for part of my crest) and have built some white capped arrows. Kind of a bummer to see it get a tinge of yellow. I gave up overcoating with profin and only do it with waterbase..no yellow and things looks consistent which is what I'm after.
Third, if you're a slow dipper, you need to shake it up every so often or it CAN (not nessicarly will), cause curing problems. I've had it happen a couple of times where stirring things back up in my tube ever couple of arrows fixed it. Wait for bubbles to dissapate or scoop them out with a spoon and continue dipping. I'm not sure if its due to older profine...afterall around here it could be on shelves for a long time. or if its just the drying agents seperating from the actual finish. Which ever it is, if you have issues with drying....mix it up it'll likely fix your problems.
Lastly its slooooow to dry in general (not as slow as the massey finish though but not far off. Depending on temp and humidity. I've used heat in the form a chicken light OR a heater on different occasions to help speed things up . This slow dry time begs the question...if you're into wiping on and slower dry times, why not use the massey finish? Its more waterproof, more durable, and doesnt burn. You do have more compatibility issues however in paints and glues depending on if you epoxy the hole shaft or everything below the cap-crests, and/or try a scuff coat..if so overcoat with waterbase first and get off the cresting area fast or it can/will dissolve your silver and gold fine bands. Fletch with tape is how I've gone about it....buddy of mine has a good write up on using it for arrows. Epoxy being more durable works very well for a scuff coat compared to profin.
PROS.
its a snastastic arrow finish! high gloss and atleast for my purposes duarable enough. I like dipping verses wiping on finishes but that is personal preference. I've used it for awhile now and really like it and will continue to do so as long as I can find it! It looks good over unstained shafts and the yellowing of my white crests is kept at bay by only going over the cap once, or not at all and using a waterbased to scuff coat. I prefer it over the massey finish due to the compatbility conquest of playing with epoxy and not wanting to fletch tape feathers on. Fletch tape is nice when it works...quick and easy, its a royal pain in the rear when it doesnt as I found out last fall with close to 1000 caribou streaming by and not a shaft with feathers on board. I reckon a guy could 5mn epoxy feathers on and not have this issue. It's something I havent tried and if daly's gets harder to find (almost 400 miles to buy by the gallon, or pay outragous prices by the quart here locally WHEN/IF they have it!).
I'd also recommend dipping profin. We end up thinning a bunch of other finishes down......profin comes the perfect consistency! It is however getting harder to find for me anyways...like all good things over time!
I'm also using gloss and buy in gallons and quarts and SO FAR (knock on paint cans), mine hasnt gone bad. Gloss finish is more durable than the the rest...if you dont want gloss grab some fine sandpaper/steel wool and scuff knock the shine. Say 1000 grit? I've never done it, I like shiney arrows
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Almost forgot to add....I'd highly recommend buying a strainer..the cheapo's at homedepot lows work well. If you are emptying it back into cans, you can keep from having issues by using the strainers over both the dip tubes and in the can. If you choose to try wiping on...I wouldnt dip a rag into the can itself. And stay away from steel wool if you can or be sure they care clean before you go about dipping...you can ruin a dip tube in short order if you dont! The thing about profin I dont see as much in other finishes is getting a chunk of junk dried crusted flake in your finish on an arrow and having to cut it off and run another coat over the shafts.
Topic: Pro-fin arrow finish (Read 218 times)
