Best glue

[stack]

What do you consider the best glue for gluing points to wooden arrows. I am having problems with my tips coming off in my targets. I have been using ferreltite. I need something better. I am using ash arrows.

Thanks
Stack

[Avid Archer]

Try a 5 min. 2 part epoxy, requires a little more heat, but is still reversable.

[Fletcher]

I like the Kimsha stick hot melt.  One main cause of point loss is not getting the inside of the point cleaned out well.  I use alcohol or acetone on a long taper of paper towel and make sure all the oils are gone.  Any oil in the point will spoil the bond no matter what glue is used.  Doesn't hurt to scuff them up inside, either and use enuf heat to really get the glue runny.

[Tree Killer]

I don't think I've ever lost a field point using ferreltite!

Are you spinning the point to get all the air out as you apply pressure?  I always heat the inside of my point with my torch to burn out any oily residue that might be left from manufacture...and I see 3Rivers is selling a small steel brush for scrubbing out the ferrel for a clean contact.

I've always used ferreltite or the fishing rod tip glue which is basically the same.

[Grey Taylor]

Perfect cleaning and 30 minute epoxy.
It's very unusual for me to have an arrow come back with a lost tip complaint.

Guy

[m midd]

Ferr-l-tite for me. Most any hotmelt is a good choice. I like the fact  that you can have them on and shooting in a few minutes.

[reddogge]

I burn the inside of the point real hot with a propane torch to get the oils out and use hot melt from Big Jims.

[lpcjon2]

Fishing rod ferrul cement, its made for fishing rod tips and it is a hot melt type glue.

[Mongo]

Ferrl tite or hot melt for me.  Cleaning the inside of the tip is the key.

[Drewster]

3Rivers has a Hot Melt Arrow Point glue.  $1.99/stick.  Haven't lost a point yet.  As other have mentioned.....clean, clean, clean the inside of the point before attaching.

[Pointer]

A little sandpaper to rough up the inside of the taper on the point will help the ferr-l-tite hold better. If there's oil left from the machining process they'll let go eventually

[karrow]

hot melt glue. easy on and off. easy to tune with, and cheap

[cahaba]

Ferrl tite for me. I have not lost a point since useing it. I do clean my points with denatured alcohol and then burn the inside of the poit to get rid of the oil residue. I also spin the point when installing.

[Ray Lyon]

I used to use Ferreltite and like you would loose points from time to time.  Tim Cosgrove at Kustom King turned me on to this  http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Quick-Stick-Glue/productinfo/6600/  which I use for both my carbon arrow inserts and wood arrows with field points.  I've had no trouble with either type of arrow since using this. It's softer than ferreltite, so I don't think it gets as brittle.  Also, I echo the comment above about burning out the inside of your point with the torch to get oils out.

[todd smith]

Quick-Stick from Kimsha is the best I have ever used.  T.P. sells it as does Kustom King.

[stack]

Thanks for all the help from everyone on here. I think it was a combination of not cleaning the inside of the tip well enough and not enough heat. Problem solved.

Thanks again
Stack

[Flying Dutchman]

I tried everything for gluing my points on my woodies, it almost drove me crazy. However, since a year or two I use AAE 2-Part Epoxy from 3-Rivers:   http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=8139  

I never looked back.

It takes 24 hours two cure. Don't forget to mix the two different epoxys carefully. Devide it equally. What helps is to open just one tube. You can use the cap for that, closing one tube. When you have the amount you wish, close the other tube. You don't need much glue for one point. Put some glue on the shaft and turn the point down on it, so that the glue is divided. If you use to much the glue bulbs out. But you will learn fast the right amount.

Most important is you clean the inside of the point, because they are always oily to prevent rust. I use pure alcohol and rub it dry afterwards.

If you do it like this, your points are nuke-proof on the shaft!

[Kris]

Kimsha Quick-Stick, it is softer than Ferr-L-Tite and doesn't seem to "release" points as easily.  It is very nice to work with.

Kris

[sagebrush]

I like hot melt. I use the kind that comes with the Pam Fastening Technologies hot melt gun. I use it at work. It holds like construction adhesive except that it is reversible and it dries fast. Gary

[Roger Norris]

I use Ferrelite or JB Weld. I still have some tubes of the old Ferrelite in the cardboard tube. Works great.

Regardless, cleaning out the inside of the points is key. Q-tip, lots of alcohol, and then burn out the inside with a stove top or torch.