How many coats with pro-fin?

[jonsimoneau]

For those of you who seal wood arrows with pro-fin how many coats do you normally put on your arrows. I've never used it but I have some ordered.

[Cookus]

I like 3 coats of Pro-fin on my port orford cedars.

[Mike Vines]

I use a different product, so I can not say with intelligence how many with Pro fin, but I do want to say that we would like to see pictures when your done with this set.  Your asking all the right questions about making them, and we love our arrow porn.

[luvnlongbow]

x2 on three coats. Light sand between first and second coat with 0000 steel wool. (Actually I use the synthetic stuff. Less messy.)

[jonsimoneau]

Mike no prob. I'll let ya know when I got a few done. Just don't compare mine to yours!

[Dirtybird]

3 coats should seal em up just right.

[Walt Francis]

Where did you find the Pro-Fin?  I am unable to fid it in MT.

[NoCams]

Walt,
You will have to order direct or find a sponsor that sells it. I ordered mine for $34 a quart and $17 of that was for the hazmat shipping. I bought the satin but will order gloss next time and scuff the last coat to dull it slightly. The gloss will not seperate according to "Sir Snag Arrowsmith Extrordinaire " in the dip tube like the satin will. I have to stir my satin in the can, pour in my dip tube, do my dipping, then transfer back to the can. Snag has never steered me wrong on arrow building and thank everyone on here for all the arrowsmithing tips. Woodie Love !!! Saving my nickels for a spinrite crester next.

[snag]

Just order from Daly's. NoCams is correct in that the gloss will not separate. The stain is a two part as I recall. Also the gloss is the perfect viscosity and will sheet off nicely without having to use the "gasket" type of dipping.

[bigbadjon]

I do one coat and sand smooth then another and sand smooth. Then I dip again. If it is glassy smooth then I crest and dip one more time over the cresting. This alsmost always works though i have had to sand and dip an additional time on occasion.

[bigbadjon]

I cap dip in between the second and third dip by the by.

[jonsimoneau]

Yea Walt. I ordered it from Dalys website. I'm gonna use it for these arrows but prolly won't use it again because it was just too expensive to get it shipped here. Seems like the shipping was almost as much as the pro-fin!

[Mike Vines]

I buy Parks water based wood floor finish (Home Depot) by the gallon.  I buy gloss, and when using gloss, there is no need to stir, because there is no solids inside.  After each dip session, I just pour more in and wait atleast 24 hrs for the air bubbles to disappear before I do the next coat.  I dip 3 times, and I'm quite pleased with the finished product.  I crest over the 1st dip, the 2 more over cresting.  If I do a painted crown, I even dip over that.  

1st dip is nock pointed down, then 24 hrs later I glue on the nock.  Then I dip nock up the next 2 times.  I know it is not significant, but it does allow for some FOC with the runoff, plus it is built up a little more on the business end.

I always wait 24 hrs between doin any different step in the building process.  It allows for proper drying, and this way it ensures me that I take my time and don't rush anything.  Arrow building should be relaxing and fun.

[Walt Francis]

Mike,
I have used water based poly but had issues with it turning a white/milky after being exposed to snow/rain for extended period of time.  I loved the lack of a toxic fumes though.

[Frank V]

I use 3 coats also & lightly sand between the first & second. I don't sand after the 3rd coat. Of course you will sand the shaft & wipe any dust off them before you apply the first coat.
Frank

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Walt Francis:
Mike,
I have used water based poly but had issues with it turning a white/milky after being exposed to snow/rain for extended period of time.  I loved the lack of a toxic fumes though.

The only time I've had that problem Walt, is when I tried super glue for the fletchings.  Turned the finish white.  Switched over to Duco, and all is well.  As for the moisture in the air, I don't keep arrows long enough to have that problem.  If I have an errant shot when small game hunting, I don't bother looking for the arrow, I just grab another and move on.

[NoCams]

Mike,
Me too ! I dip nock down 1st coat then nock up on the last two. Glad I am not the only one who was thinking about more top coat on the point end. We need therapy don't we ???

[Mike Vines]

I just got a PM asking about color change with arrow finishes.  I trully believe the "yellowing" of the shafts is from the wood actually yellowing, not the finish.  I could be wrong, and usually am if you ask my wife, but just take log/pine furniture as an example.  If there is no stain added to the wood, just a clear coat, the wood that is exposed to sunlight changes colors.  Just pull out an unstained drawer to see what I'm talking about (there will be a very distinct outline where the sunlight never touched.  It could also be the finish your using, I just know I have not noticed any "yellowing" with the finish I use.

[jonsimoneau]

Mike. Do you dip one coat of clear before spraying the cap on?

[Mike Vines]

I have done it with primer over bare wood then paint then dip, and I have also done the priming and spraying over 1st dip.  6 in one, 1/2 dozen in the other.  If there is a difference, I do not notice it.  Just remember, let EVERYTHING dry fully before proceeding on.  This is where most people run into problem.  They get impatient and want to get done fast.  It's not worth it, and you will be dissatisfied with the results which equates into frustration.

I highly recommend a waterbased gloss finish (I use Parks from Home Depot).  I have had zero problems with the product.  It is compatible with all the spray paints I use (also bought at Home Depot).  I use Testor's creating paint and Duco to glue on the nock and also the feathers.  If you will be at Compton, let me know and I will have a variety of different arrows I have made over the years and you can see my finished product for yourself, and even some I have been hunting with for a couple years. They look the same way as the day I made them, just a little beat up.