The right Glue for wooden arrows and BH's

[rolltidehunter]

ok this is a novice question. last year i shot wood arrows. had some sucess with them. killed a few deer with them. but here was my problem. i missed a few times and everytime i missed i lost my BH in the dirt. i used the Ferr-l-tite glue from 3Rivers. is there a better glue out there that u  guys use.

[Zradix]

I like industrial hot glue.
Works really well in the cold too.

[Shedrock]

I have had zero issues with Ferr-l-tite glue. It is all I use. Make sure you clean the insides of the point ferrule to remove any oils.

When I glue points on, I rotate the point one way over a full turn, then back a half turn, push them on tight with a little force, then dip in water.

[m midd]

I do exactly what Shedrock said and have had zero problems.

[slowbowjoe]

"I have had zero issues with Ferr-l-tite glue. It is all I use. Make sure you clean the insides of the point ferrule to remove any oils.

When I glue points on, I rotate the point one way over a full turn, then back a half turn, push them on tight with a little force, then dip in water."

X3.
Lost points all the time before I learned these simple steps. Even Judo's buried in stumps stay put.

[rolltidehunter]

thanks guys ill clean them better

[NoCams]

Tide, go to CVS or another drug store and get you some 90% Isopropyl alcohol and Q tips. Swab the inside ferrules several times and let dry. Then use the glue method outlined above. No worries. Oil from manf process is killing your glue bond bud. 50 years of Ferr-l-tite users cannot be wrong my friend !

[JamesV]

I clean my heads really good and use epoxy for my points on wood arrows.

[The Whittler]

Big Jim's glue stick he advertise.

[lpcjon2]

If you go to a gun shop or the big chain hunting stores and get a wire bore brush for a 38 caliber shell, you can chuck it into a speed drill and clean the inside of the heads out lickety split.

  And for BH's I have a block of wood that I took my dremel and made a slit vertical and then one like a plus(for single blades) sign and  drilled a 3/8 hole and placed a 3 blade head in point first and taped it down then removed it to get the grooves. Then when you put the glue on the taper you place the BH in the slit and spin the shaft in the head to get a good spread of glue with out getting cut, and let it cool.

[toddster]

I use HotMelt, I use a flame and heat it up, put a dab on shaft, then heat up point, put on point push on, twist slightly, then quench in water.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

The nocking point sells hunt bond hot melt. I used ferr-l-tite for years with great success. Lost a few when it was real cold. Switched to huntbond a few years ago and I love it. It doesn't get brittle when real cold and is a great glue.

[SlowBowinMO]

Good tips above, cleaning is critical.  It also helps to get everything hot, both the broadhead and the glue.

We also sell a very popular low temp hot melt that works well, Super 735, as well as Bohnings new blue low temp "Cool Flex" hot melt.  None of them are brittle like original Ferr-L-Tite can be.

[JamesKerr]

Originally posted by Shedrock:
I have had zero issues with Ferr-l-tite glue. It is all I use. Make sure you clean the insides of the point ferrule to remove any oils.

When I glue points on, I rotate the point one way over a full turn, then back a half turn, push them on tight with a little force, then dip in water.

X 4

[WRV]

Hot melt and/or epoxy

[Terry Lightle]

Same as Shedrock