Arrow tuning problems

[Fidelios]

Hello guys! I oedered 2 carbon arrows by Bearpaw. They are GT made for Bearpaw. Got the 400 and 500 spine at 31 inches. Both fly nock to the right on impact so on bare shafts so I guees that is a simple answer of too much spine. But what is really bugging me is the fact that they land point downwards, nock high no matter what I do. I lowered the ncking poit, still low impact.Brought the nock point up(alredy in dispair), still pointing down on hit. Really don't know what to do. The spine problem I reckon can be made better by longer shafts and higher weight points. but this..I was not expecting this... help me please..

[xtrema312]

I have the same thing with carbons when too stiff. I can't get them to level out until I get them to the point they start to get a little nock left. That is right hand split. 3 under I can get level and even bock low easy.  Also watch for loose nocks that let the arrow slide down and bounce off the shelf.

[xtrema312]

I also find it hard to not have hock a little high with a lot of FOC. Not sure if that is normal but it tends to be consistent foe me.

[JimB]

The spine problem would be changed by shorter shaft,not longer-or,more point weight.You didn't say what point weight you tried.If moving the nock point up and down doesn't change anything,set that issue aside for now and work only on side to side till that is perfect.

You can work on the nock thing later.One issue at a time.It could be a form thing,possibly.

Are you shooting bare shafts with fletched shafts?

[Looper]

Make sure you have a nock set below the arrow, as well as above. The shaft will slide down upon release and play havoc with your tuning. That may or may not be the issue, but I'd eliminate that possibility first.

[Fidelios]

Thank you for your replies! I am shooting GT's 400 and 500 with 100 gr and 125 gr. I have been doing the trials with a nock set so we can eliminate the slide up and down. the arrows are cut to 31 so I think that It would make sense to have them at 32 and go with the 500. Again, it's  a shame that I have no clubs near me that sell GT's so that I can test them forst. I end up having to buy them at certain lenghts that will probably not work and then having to do it again..

[Fidelios]

ahhh, below and over...only got it now..lol thx looper!

[Looper]

So, was that the problem?

[Fidelios]

o loop that was not the problem....sorry I didn't reply. It still goes point down no matter what I do...even went low as well and still point down. Went ridiculously high on knocking and stil point down..this is so frustrating.. I was expecting hard tunning for spine , not for something apparently simple as knocking point...

[elkbreath]

I have the same issue with one bow of mine.  It doesnt matter what I do.  Try one thing, just out of curiosity... try three under and try split finger with just two fingers and two or three over with none below...  

for me, With that one bow (bamboo backed home made job) I think its just been shot and is out of oomph, the bottom limb has established more follow then the top limb, causing it to be slower, kicking the knock up at the last second. either that or the tiller is just off.  when I go two or three over, it flies straight.

[Fidelios]

elkbreath..I sooo hope that is not the case...I'll go mad if my bow has that problem on the limb... I'll shoot 3 under tomorrow and let's see.. thanks! mine is a samick spikeman and I can't afford another bow! dang!  

[Looper]

Taking some measurements might reveal if it's out of tune or not. At the fadeouts, measure the distance from the string to the limb. If you shoot with a split grip, the lower limb should measure 1/4" less than the upper. If they are the same measurement, it's tillered for a 3 under grip. If there is more than 1/4" or if the lower limb measures more than the other, the tiller is off.

[tbird-51]

I would try another 50 grains or so on the 31 in .500's,if your pulling close to 50#, and if your bow is a 3 pc takedown maybe put a few extra twist in the string to raise brace some. I have had an incident in the past where a low brace on a TD model caused strange arrow flight.. duno for sure but it helped mine.

[JamesKerr]

Are you trying to tune based on how the shaft impacts the target or where your bare shafts group in relation to fletched shafts?

[jonsimoneau]

Raising your nock point will make the shaft hit the target point down. You need to lower your nock point. Start at a half inch and slowly go up from there. Also you never really get the point down thing to go away completely. Fletching will take care of the rest.

[Fidelios]

Thanks for all your replies guys! I kept having nightmares with my bow having a really short limb and a huge one..lolol. I am tuning based solely on bare shafts, tbird. jonsimoneau, I think that i'll have to do that..do you think that if it is not possible I could ask Samick for a possible replacement of the bow? I will have to do what loop is suggesting. Dang , I don't like 3 under though..
ok, out to shoot it again!

[dragonheart]

have you shot one with feathers on it?  How did it shoot.  I prefer "some" nock high to clear the shelf and the bow shoots more forgiving.  Shoot one fletched and see how it hits in relation to the bare shaft.  Also, I would recommend you stick with the form you normally shoot.  Split, 3 under whatever you want to do.  Sometimes, we can get way to worried about shooting a bare shaft perfect.  Dave Miller spoke in his book about a guy that got so frustrated, even though he could shoot great groups with a nock high arrow, but could not shoot a bare shaft "perfect" that he quit archery.  It is only a test.  Fletched arrows  are what we shoot.  If you can get them to group, that is paramount.  Just my 2 cents.

[Fidelios]

ok, just been shooting the bow and guess what..the knocking point has to be high to the extent that when knocked, the arrow knock does not sit on a 90 degrees angle in relation to the bow's belly. And I have to shoot 3 under. Then it will not fish tail nor hit pointing downwards...so I guess I solved it with your help guys!It's a shame I have to shoot three under with the bow being noisy and the arrow tilting...but hey it shoots. any thing wrong with the arrown not seating at about 90 degrees?

[Fidelios]

thank you dragonheart! it does put things into perspective. I'll fletch one and see what happens

[jonsimoneau]

The arrow will normally not be at a 90 degree angle. For me it is generally 5/8ths above square for best flight. You should not have to shoot three under if you do not prefer it. Tune the arrow to your shooting style. Don't tune your shooting style to the arrow.   I would fletch a few and do some paper tunning. Tuning with paper is often easier for those just starting out.