Bow Square Dumb Question

[MJB]

I feel real stupid posting this. But just been eyeballing my nock point/set. I pm-ed a member here and asked if the little lines were 16ths.

I should of completed the question. What were the other lines. I know where 90 degrees is. From there I'm lost.        
It's a Potawatomi bow square.
Thanks,
Mike

[old_goat2]

Not sure if I understand your question for sure, but your t- scale should be marked just like any ruler. One line length is sixteenths like you said, then next longer line is an eighth and so on. My t- square is marked like that on one side for inches and on other side it is marked for millimeters.

[Webster2]

Gave up using one, years ago.

Mich simpler and more accurate to snap an arrow on the string, hold the bow so that the string is horizontal.

The arrow will show you how much clearance you have to the rest.

Removes the factors of nock type and arrow diameter.

Anyone want a free bow square?  LOL

[Rob W.]

I have never used one. I figure I'm going to move it during tuning anyway.


Rob

[dragonheart]

Get you a label or a piece of tape and cover up all the lines and mark where you nocking point winds up after tuning.  The lines are just a reference.

[Bladepeek]

That's fine if you only have one bow. Why not just use it to measure with as it was designed. I keep a record of all my brace heights and nock points and they are different for quite a few of my bows.

Or am I not understanding the question?

Ron

[gringol]

They are kind of a pain.  A carpenter's square is just as good imo.

[Gregg S]

My bow square is marked in 16th's but I'm not sure about the square that you mentioned. However, you can count the lines and measure that with a tape measure or ruler. There will be 16 lines to an inch. If there are 8 lines to an inch then it is in 8th's. I have always started with a higher nocking point then needed with a new bow and then slowly bring it down to where I am getting the best arrow flight, then use the square and record where that nocking point is. This saves alot of time if you need to change strings or if you start to get less then perfect arrow flight and you want to check and see if your nocking point has moved. Hope this helps.

[kawika b]

Originally posted by dragonheart:
Get you a label or a piece of tape and cover up all the lines and mark where you nocking point winds up after tuning.  The lines are just a reference.

That totally defeats the intended purpose of the tool. The marking should be 16ths and you can verify against a tape rule, ruler or whatever you have handy at the moment. I have the 5/8th's mark on mines marked off for quick acquisition... most of my nocking points land very close to there so it's an easy way for me to get started.

[MJB]

Guys I'm not a genius reading a ruler. So any help is greatly appreciated. This is the bow square.
 
 

[Looper]

The lines are spaced 1/16" apart.

Two 1/16" lines = 1/8"
Three 1/16" lines = 3/16"
Four 1/16" lines = 1/4"
Five = 5/16"
Six = 3/8"
Seven = 7/16"
Eight = 1/2"
Nine = 9/16"
Ten = 5/8"

So, on this bowsquare, the height of the arm is 5/8".

What you'll want to do is have two nock sets. One below your arrow, and one above.

Here's how to position them on the string:

First, place the square on the string. Make sure that it is fully seated and that both of the metal tabs are on the serving. Adjust the bowsquare so that the arm is just sitting on top of the shelf. The bottom mark on the bowsquare will now be even with the shelf. That is the 0 mark. You'll want to position your nock sets up from that bottom line.
   

Start with the top nock. You'll want the bottom of your upper nock to be around the 7/16" mark (seven lines up from the bottom). Once you get it in the right position, lightly crimp it in place. You want to have it tight enough that you can still twist it on the string, but not so loose that it will slide on the string. When it comes time to tune, you will be able to adjust the nock height by twisting it up and down the string as necessary.    

After you get the upper nock mounted securely, clip one of your arrows to the string, and butt it up to the upper nock. Place your lower nock set below the arrow and leave a little gap (about 1/16" worth) between it and the arrow. This will keep your nock from binding your arrow at full draw.

   

The results will look like this:
   

You are now ready to start the tuning process. Remember that you might have to adjust your nock heights during the tuning process. When you find the right spot, go back and tighten the nocks with your crimping pliers. Don't overdo it. You don't want to damage the serving.

Once you have the right nock height and brace height for that particular bow, write them down and periodically check to make sure they haven't changed. If you are using a new string, it will likely stretch some and you'll need to move the nocks back to where they should be.

[Looper]

I added some pictures to help visualize the process.

[Orion]

Well demonstrated Looper.    A bow square, and knowledge of how to use it, is one of the most important pieces of equipment an archer can have.

[TxAg]

Looper, well done.

Quick question, though. It is my understanding (and has been my experience) that string stretch doesn't affect nock height. If a string stretches at both ends, the middle is still the middle. Have you experienced otherwise? Maybe it depends on string material?

[JimB]

The nock isn't actually in the middle.The seving can also wear and nocks can shift.

[Looper]

You're probably right. I have found the need to adjust the nock heights after I put in some silencers. I've also had problems with some of my early tied on nocks slipping a little or just getting worn out. I've got a pretty good tie on method now, so I don't really worry about that very much. At any rate, it's a good idea to know what the right nock height should be in the event it does change, for whatever reason.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Great illustration looper..... the only thing you might want to add is to not crimp those brass knocks real tight when you are setting things up.

like you said.... with a new string it's common for the loops to settle in on a flemish string and seem to stretch out a bit. even an endless loop fast flight string settles in a bit.

I actually prefer i tie on knock myself. They are lighter weight and easier on your glove. I'll use one brass knock lightly crimped until the string is shot in and stabilized, then replace it with serving material.

I've got a video somewhere about how to tie a string knock but i can't find it. If this is done correctly you can twist the knocks to adjust them up and down..... Kirk

[Looper]

Good point. I went back an edited the post. I agree about the tie on nocks. That's what I use. I just used the brass nocks in this thread for simplicity's sake.

[MJB]

Looper,
Thanks for the pictures. I was starting at 90 degrees and counting up. I realized the aren't enough lines  

[Dry Creek]

Good Thread!!!