Elevated rest on longbow

I prefer the vertical feather rests from 3 rivers because they do not crowd the sight window.

I prefer the vertical feather rests from 3 rivers because they do not crowd the sight window.

[Shakes.602]

VANES????          Talk about  BLASPHEMY!!!     I hope you didnt get struck down by Lightning for that kind of Talk!  :eek:

[Tom Anderson]

Originally posted by sledge:
so what is the elevated rest of choice?

joe

I've always gotten the best flight with the Hoyt Super Rest.  I usually take a black marker and cut a slit in some black soft Velcro to slip over it to " hide" it a little.

[darin putman]

I've had that same problem on one of my longbows, nock high couldn't figure it out for anything.But  only happend with carbon any skinny arrow as woodies and aluminum flew fine after some tuning but couldn't get carbon shafts too, I kinda think might have been my difference in finger pressure on string due to small shafts. I shoot woodies now, not blaming it on carbons just the way I shoot them.THINKING OUT LOUD I GUESS!!!!!

[Jeff Roark]

Originally posted by Shakes.602:
VANES????             Talk about  BLASPHEMY!!!      I hope you didnt get struck down by Lightning for that kind of Talk!   :eek:  

Oh yes, I will be shooting vanes! I'm not really traditional in any sense of the word, I just choose to shoot recurves and longbows because i like them better. I'm not into the "traditional" rules per say.

[Hoyt]

I've been shooting the Hoyt flipper style rests since the 60's on recurves. Bout the only thing that hasn't gone up. $2.50 or so for the Hoyt Hunter or Hoyt Super. I like both of them.

[LYONEL]

I just posted these photos of my Silvertip on a similar post, I have used these toothbrush rests for about 15 years on all my recurves & never wore one out.
Build along link below.

 

   

 http://huntsmanbows.com.au/Brush%20Rest%20p%201.html

[S C Mercer]

I use a modified Bear WeatherRest on my Schafer Silvertip with excellent results.  Bow shoots arrows lazer beam straight and is very quiet and forgiving to boot.  I won't go back to shooting off the shelf anymore.  Got tired of banging my head against the proverbial wall with my nock high issues when shooting off the shelf.  Never could figure out what was causing it.   I put the Bear rest on years ago and all the tuning issues went away for good.  I recently tried a Bear rest on a Morrison Shawnee longbow and had excellent results with that bow too, so, it'll definitely work with a longbow.   ~Steve

[S C Mercer]

I use a modified Bear WeatherRest on my Schafer Silvertip with excellent results.  Bow shoots arrows lazer beam straight and is very quiet and forgiving to boot.  I won't go back to shooting off the shelf anymore.  Got tired of banging my head against the proverbial wall with my nock high issues when shooting off the shelf.  Never could figure out what was causing it.   I put the Bear rest on years ago and all the tuning issues went away for good.  I recently tried a Bear rest on a Morrison Shawnee longbow and had excellent results with that bow too, so, it'll definitely work with a longbow.   ~Steve

One example of how  good an arrow rest can be. I gave a friend a Hill longbow, it was early March of that year.  Later in the summer, he told that I put the arrow nock too low, because his arrows were not flying.  I told him to check it again to see if it was 1/8" to 3/16" above center under the arrow, it was. He stopped by one day to show me, and could not figure out why those arrows would not fly anymore because they were perfect last March. I thought at the time that they would be on the stiff side , but they flew perfect then and really loggy three months later. The difference was he had fleece gloves on in March and right when he hit anchor, he put a little pressure on the bow with his index finger and flattened the glove material up about an 1/8". That made the arrow nearly a perfect 90 degrees but the softness gave the stiff arrow something to work with and provided perfect arrow flight. With my Hill style longbows prior to that, I was always fretting about lifting the arrow off the shelf when wearing gloves so I pulled them off to shoot, cut the index finger off or tried to hold the bow lower and bridge it a bit to avoid arrow contact. Since then, I have gone to a fleece glove and a very soft deer skin glove; when I shoot normally my finger is within a hair of the arrow to touching the arrow, with the gloves, it rides the arrow up and I still get perfect arrow flight

[Jeff Roark]

Originally posted by LYONEL:
I just posted these photos of my Silvertip on a similar post, I have used these toothbrush rests for about 15 years on all my recurves & never wore one out.
Build along link below.

 

     

  http://huntsmanbows.com.au/Brush%20Rest%20p%201.html  

I put one of these brush rests on my longbow last night and man, what a difference between it and the vinyl siding one. I'll never have to do without one again. Thanks for the awesome idea. It  works perfectly.

[babs]

thats a great idea Lyonel thanks for the tip, gotta try this one

[LYONEL]

I can' t take credit for the idea of this rest I was originally shown this rest by a friend by the name of Alan Podlich about 15 years ago, Alan  or Pod as his friends know him is a well respected bowhunter a bit of a legend really in my part of Australia. This man has taken more game than most of us would dream of over many years & was one of the really early  members of the Australian Bowhunters Association and was always very helpful when I started in archery. Also thanks goes to Mark Kimber for listing the tutorial  on his website Mark is an expat Kiwi who now lives in Australia & is the builder of Huntsman Bows which in my opinion is the best made recurve in Australia, Mark is also one of the most dedicated exponents of Traditional Archery . Hopefully passing the knowledge on will help benefit Traditional Archery every where as I have learnt a lot from people involved on this website who also are happy to share there knowledge to promote Traditional archery.

[LYONEL]

I can' t take credit for the idea of this rest I was originally shown this rest by a friend by the name of Alan Podlich about 15 years ago, Alan  or Pod as his friends know him is a well respected bowhunter a bit of a legend really in my part of Australia. This man has taken more game than most of us would dream of over many years & was one of the really early  members of the Australian Bowhunters Association and was always very helpful when I started in archery. Also thanks goes to Mark Kimber for listing the tutorial  on his website Mark is an expat Kiwi who now lives in Australia & is the builder of Huntsman Bows which in my opinion is the best made recurve in Australia, Mark is also one of the most dedicated exponents of Traditional Archery . Hopefully passing the knowledge on will help benefit Traditional Archery every where as I have learnt a lot from people involved on this website who also are happy to share there knowledge to promote Traditional archery.

[longbow565]

Hey Lyonel what is the material you are using for backing. I tried moleskin and the brush moves a little.

[LYONEL]

It's just thin leather as per the build along.

[Kc kreger]

Great build a long, Lyonel!  Thank you for sharing this with us.  I now have another thing to do before deer season.  That is to get out those 2 or 3 bows I've put up that I could never get good arrow flight out of and build a rest for them.  There is hope for them after all!

IMO, a good thin leather to use would be veg tan kid skin.  If you don't have a leather supplier near you check with a shoe repair shop.  That is if any still exist in your part of the country!  Veg tan kid skin (kid skin is goat hide), or veg tan calf skin is thin but still stiff enough and tough enough to do what is achieved in the build a long.  And with the veg tan leather one can die it to what ever color you like best.

Thanks again!  Great thread.

K.C.  <><

[ripforce56]

Just put one on my self-bow, wow works great!

[longbow565]

Sorry I didnt read everything