Help me find an arrow setup starting point please

[Lakeshooter]

I recently bough a longbow and some new shafts and need help with a good arrow set up. I know each bow shoots an arrow differently but what would be a good general set up that would keep me from screwing up new shafts thanks!. Cut length? Insert weight? Field Point Weight/Broadhead Weight? Ect.


Draw: 27 1/4"
Bow: Martin Viper 45# @ 28
Arrow: Gold Tip 3555 Traditional
Spine:.500
GPI: 8.6
Trueflight 4" Fletchig:2.3 GR each

Primary Use: Deer and 3D

I was using 27 1/2" long 3555 arrows with standard insert/nock for my 50# recurve and 100gr field point. Seemed to fling an arrow pretty hard and 1 1 1/2 feet high and right but straight enough for me. From what Im reading I have too light of an arrow, so new shafts were ordered and I want to get it this arrow thing right. As you can see my current set up is far from what you would recommend so whatever you recommend will be better than what I have, from what I read.
This subject is beyond me. I dont want to ruin my new shafts figuring this out, whats a good starting point?

Input Please!


Thank you!

[bowslinger]

Arrows should typically be 1.5 to 2 inches longer than your draw length.  How was your draw length measured?  

Just out of curiosity, how was your draw length measured?  I shot a recurve for two years thinking I was coming to full draw.  I found a video explaining what a form master is and made a very rough but functional version.  After playing with it a little and video taping myself at full draw, I realized I was short drawing by about 1.5 inches.  After correcting my from, all my arrow were suddenly too short! Arrgh!

Be sure your draw length measurment is correct to start. It may save you money on arrows.  I recommend you have your arrows cut at least 1.5 inches longer than your draw length.

Are you familiar with Stu Miller's spine calculator?  It is a handy tool that let's you set a lot of variables to see what the spine requirement of your bow is and what arrow setups should put you close.  I have included a link below.

 http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/

It is a free Excel spreadsheet that is pretty easy to use.  Be sure to fill out all variables as accurately as possible, including string type and center cut measurement.

Good luck with your quest.  Don't be afraid to keep asking questions.  We have all been in your situation.

[Lakeshooter]

Thank you for your help! My draw was around 27 1/4 but i will do some searching before I make the final cut. Would 2.5" over draw be bad? This seems like a nifty calculator!

[JamesKerr]

Stu's calculator is a good place to start. I think the 500 spine should work well for you. I would start my shafts around 30" and play with different point weights before you cut them any shorter. But, it is really just going to come down to you doing some tuning for yourself. It may seem like a long process but most bows will shoot a variety of arrows well. I would think cutting the

[Killdeer]

Start with a full length shaft. Use hot melt (carefully!) for your point insert, or wrap it in a layer of plastic wrap for testing. I would reccommend a point weight of 175 grains for testing.
This will give you a mid-range weight, that you may raise or lower to fine-tune later.

Shoot the shafts, noting flight characteristics. Ask questions here if you have trouble figuring it out. Slowly shorten your shafts by quarter inch increments until they shoot well for you out of your bow. I hope you have access to an arrow saw.

This may seem way too slow, maddeningly so, and can be frustrating. Just remember how much you spent on those shafts, though, and how many hours you worked to earn them. It takes many hours also, at least to start, to get them shooting correctly.

Killdeer

[Lakeshooter]

If you could choose one of the two following combinations what would you choose?

445Gr- 182.1fps
381Gr- 196.8fps
- Both Same 32.7ft-lbs energy

According to the calculator the top number is with 3555 and the bottom  is 1535, both have different weight set ups for tips and inserts but both are in the same dynamic spine requirement zone.

[bulldog18]

I am shooting 29.5 inch Gold Tip 3555 Traditional with 3-5inch feathers, 100 grain brass insert and 100 grain tip. shoots well out of my Savannah. As far as your choices listed. I would pick the 445 grain set-up. It is heavier and should be quieter. I like to be around 10 GPP or a little heavier.

[Blue Tick]

I have been going through the same process for a new longbow and recurve. Right now, I am set on using CE Heritage 150's. I used insert iron on the inserts and will cut from the nock end as I need to. I am bare shafting them and trying point weights from 125 to 200 with a standard insert.

What I have found is that Stu's calculator is a ballpark figure, but not exact on what you will need. The personal form factor box there also plays a roll in it. To get that part working, find an arrow setup that flies well from your setup, enter the arrow info into the calculator and then the bow info. Once you have that done, go to the personal form factor and enter from -15 to 15 and see what you are.

[Bud B.]

Using the figures in your first post I'd go with 29" arrows with 50gr inserts and buy a test kit of field points up to 200gr. Maybe even 225gr.

If cutting shorter than that I'd go with 100gr inserts. A 35/55 below 29" gets stiffer than you'd think, which to me requires the heavier insert.

[Lakeshooter]

Why is tuning an arrow to the weight of the bow so  important? With the extremely light/short arrows I was using, I didn't notice anything that was really wrong that it wouldn't kill a dear. They smacked the target hard and some are hard to pull out. So Im really confused on how close I really have to be to be about as good as one can be.

However I do like the idea of the longer arrow because I shoot three under and sometimes i use my peripherals to reference arrow point to the general area of the target.

[babs]

you said you shot 1.5 feet high that would concern me when I'm hunting. I would start out with full length shafts and try 125,150,175,200 grain points and see which one flys the best, and than you can decide if you like the full length shafts. If you cut the shafts you will have to keep going up in point weight the more you cut the shafts. I wouldn't cut the shafts just yet, I learned that lesson when I first started shooting traditional. Carbon arrows react more by cutting them than they do with different point weights. Just my opinion.

[Lakeshooter]

If the arrow shoots high would arrow length be the only thing that I would need to worry about? thanks!

[Lakeshooter]

Would you recommend me trading/selling the 3555 and buying the 1535 set up since it has the same energy but 14fps faster? Is 182 slow? Thanks!

[sawtoothscream]

start full length and work your way down.  

I just got done tuning my longbow. 47# @ my 26 " draw. Gt 3555 full length with a 50gr insert and 100gr point and 5" feathers tuned up perfect for me. Bareshafts hitting straight and both fletchings and bare shafts almost shooting perfect bullet holes through paper.

I would see what it does with the standard insert and a 125gr tip full length first with bare shafts and then go from there, when you got bare shafts flying good check and see what it does through paper.    thats what I was told to do by a great shooter and it seems to be working out pretty well. Good luck

[sawtoothscream]

Originally posted by Lakeshooter:
If you could choose one of the two following combinations what would you choose?

445Gr- 182.1fps
381Gr- 196.8fps
- Both Same 32.7ft-lbs energy

According to the calculator the top number is with 3555 and the bottom  is 1535, both have different weight set ups for tips and inserts but both are in the same dynamic spine requirement zone.

I would go with the 445gr set up, it will have better  momentum over the lighter one. That being said a guy on archery talk has been killing deer with 360 something gr arrows and rage 40ke broadheads out of his 48# at his 29" draw recurve. Pass throughs with a 1.5" mech head out to 30 yds. So with a COC head and those specs im sure you could get pass throughs at 20 yds if you do your part with either set up

[Lakeshooter]

Thank you! Would the fps difference matter? I might just switch it up, if im shooting 3d i might need the flatter trajectory

[Lakeshooter]

Thank you! Would the fps difference matter? For 3D/huntning.

[hitman]

182 IS BY NO MEANS TOO SLOW.

[Lakeshooter]

Thank you i will keep the 3555 then!