Arrow Dynamic shaft question?

[JamesKerr]

Do these shafts have a stiff side to them or are they the same spine all the way around. If they have a stiff side how do you find it. Also where is the best place to order them from?

[Orion]

Don't own any so don't know if they have a stiff side, but i can tell you how to find it if there is one.  Works on any arrow.  Place the point end of the shaft on a flat surface and let the nock end rest in the palm of your hand, holding the arrow at about a 45 degree angle.  Use your other hand to put pressure on the center of the shaft and roll it back and forth.  If it has a stiff side, you'll feel it.  The arrow will want to stop rolling smoothly as you approach the stiffest orientation and then quickly roll over the hump/stiffest orientation.

[Danny Rowan]

I do not know but you can go here and find the deflection on each shaft they make.

 http://www.nitrostinger.com/products.cfm

[huntin_sparty]

Dont know on the side thing but call Ted at Raptor very knowledgeable on the ADs and you can purchase them from him too!

[JamesKerr]

What is the best nocks for these arrows. Do you guys use adaptors and then glue on nocks or just the press in fit nocks?

[Danny Rowan]

Easton G nocks with the unibushing for the ADs for me.

[4dogs]

I use the unibushing and G nocks like Danny...big improvement over the stock press in's

[huntin_sparty]

Danny and 4 dogs I found the nock and nock end the only disapointment with the ADs.  I had a lot of arrows crack not in the front but at the nock end when stumping do you notice that with the unibushing?

[JimB]

You can find the stiff side by plugging both ends of the shaft.The nock will work for that end.Run an inch of water in the bath tub and roll them on the surface of the water.If a shaft consistently turns the same side up,it has some "spine" and that is the heavier side which is down.Mark the top side.That will be the weak side.

Regarding nock end splitting,a 1/4" aluminum footing or nock collar should cure that and would be well worth the effort.

[4dogs]

I had that happen a few times also, especially on "not as rotten of a stump as I thought" targets or I was forever just flipping the press in nocks out when shooting ...has not happened since I switched to G-nocks two years ago.....James, if they have a stiff side I have not been able to find it. The way these shafts are manufactured I think would create an evenly spined shaft...if you really want to know give them a call. The son is running the business now and they are really nice folks and willing to discuss things archery.

[JamesKerr]

Thanks guys I ordered some yesterday so they should be here soon. What would you guys recommend as a starting place for me to cut them at to tune them in. I am shooting a 55 pound hybrid longbow cut 1/8 past center with a 1/16" strike plate. I am going to be using 200 grain points and the 100 grain brass insert.

[Kentucky Jeff]

You didn't specify which AD shafts you are using (or maybe I missed it)  But you'll find that the front end is heavy and VERY stiff and you don't get to the dynamic portion of the shaft until you get to where it begins to taper.   IOW, you can cut an inch or two off the front and won't see a large difference in dynamic spine.

At least that's been my experience with both AD Hammer Heads and HH Lites.  

I trimmed an inch off my shafts and it didn't change the dynamic spine one iota.   Your best bet for tuning these arrows is to change the point/insert weight.  

Having said all that...these shafts are VERY forgiving and will shoot well with a much broader range of point weights and shaft lengths than any other parallel design carbon shaft I've ever used.

[Danny Rowan]

You did not specify your true draw length. I draw 29" and my arrows are cut to 30.5" with a 100 gr brass insert and 250-300 grain points. I shoot them out of all of my bows from 55# up to 64# at my draw. Just a note, I do not know if you bare shaft tune or not but that may not work with these shafts.

[JamesKerr]

I draw 27.5 and my bow pulls 54# at that length I am going to be shooting the traditional shafts. I have been told I will probably end up around 29-30" does this sound close.

[Kentucky Jeff]

Originally posted by JamesKerr:
I draw 27.5 and my bow pulls 54# at that length I am going to be shooting the traditional shafts. I have been told I will probably end up around 29-30" does this sound close.

Again, you won't see a lot of change in the dynamic spine with these shafts by cutting them shorter.  The heavy front end is very stiff compared to the rear of the shaft.

Take one and shoot it full length with the tip weight you anticipate using.  See how it shoots.  Then cut it back at 1/2" increments and see how it shoots. (1/4" cuts on these shafts won't make a detectable change in spine--too stiff up front)

As I said, changing tip weight will affect the spine on these shafts more than cutting because of their design.

[BAK]

It just baffles me that anyone would pay that much for arrows.  Just say'n!

[pamike]

I have a dozen trad's coming and I can't wait to try them. I called nitro and talked to them for 30 minutes very helpful and great to deal with.

[Danny Rowan]

Andrew,

I have never had one split on the nock end. Been shooting them for years and I have only broke one, hit a rock and it broke on the point end after the insert.

[joe skipp]

I shoot my AD Trad lites from all my recurves, from 52# to 57# at my 27" draw.

I cut my AD's 28.5", installed nock adapters and glued on 9/32 nocks. Crown dipped and use 5" full helical feathers.

I installed a 100 gr brass insert, 35 gr BHA and shoot 125/135/160 grain broadheads with excellent results. With the 125 grain head, the total arrow weight is 599/600 grains.

Real happy with the weight and performance.