taper question

[stack]

When tapering the point end of my shafts 11/16 my taper does not go all the way down in my points. I am using snuffer 145 gr and the point does not go all the way to the end of the taper. I have about 1/4 inch left of the taper showing and it only goes about 3/4 of the way down into the broad head. It is as if my taper tool has the wrong taper to it.

[Paul Mattson]

What type of taper tool are you using?  Sounds like the taper is to large.

[stack]

not sure of the make. I bought it at the Kzoo show last spring. It is shaped like an hour glass and is made of stainless steel. There is no adjustments for the blades at all and has different inserts for arrow size. I know this is probaly not much help.

[macbow]

You might try removing about 1/8 inch from the front and see if it will seat,better.
Can also go back to,the taper tool after trimming.
I've had many that are,as you,described and just used them that way.

[stack]

It just seems that if it does not seat all the way down the tips seem to wobble and then they just don't seem to stay on that well. The shaft is only going down in my broadhead about 3/4 of an inch.

[Zradix]

sounds like you have a bear paw.
 
I have one.
I really like it.

It cuts enough of a taper to get a good hold.
I just melt a little extra glue on the tip to fill it up.

The only time I had any problems with it was when I tried some 4 blade Zwickeys.

The taper wouldn't fill up the hole in the ferrule.

The old true center taper tool is adjustable for taper length..not sure about the new one..

The bear paw always seems to cut nicer than the tru center..even with old blades in the bear and new in the tru center.

Good luck

[stack]

That is the one! But my point taper end seems to be not enough taper for my points. Even my target points won't seat all the way down. They seem to go only 3/4 of the way in. I am going to take it and some of my arrows to the Elm hall shoot next week and see if someone can give me any tips on fixing my problem. I have some 23/64 tips that fit just fine with this taper. But that is just because they are bigger around I would guess.

[Zradix]

are you having a problem like the top example?
Where the point's "hole" just isn't a big enough dia to fit the shaft.

or... is it like the bottom pic where the point fits on ok but there is a "void" up front where the shaft doesn't fill the space in the tip?

..or neither...lol

[stack]

just like the bottom pic. I was under the impression that the point should go up and make a smooth transition into the shaft so that everything was a nice smooth and level surface.

[Zradix]

perfection is nice...I haven't been so lucky..

( not to insult..just to be sure,,,are you using the correct side of the tool..one side is for point tapers the other is for nocks..)

It seems like all my shafts have been a little too big dia for my field tips over the years.

Some b-heads were made a bit bigger at the mouth and fit my shafts just fine..some didn't.

The real question is..
When you slip a "dry" tip on, can you feel the tapers matching up.

In other words, when the shaft taper first enters the tip it's wobbly as heck.

But when you have the tip very close to "on" can you feel the wobble go away and things start to mesh up?

If the tapers mesh up you'll be ok.

A little difference in shaft to tip dia is normally no big deal. You can look for 23/64th field tips to help you out. (5/16th tips on 23/64ths isn't the way to go)

The little void I get from the bear paw not cutting a long taper gets filled with glue.
No problems with adhesion.

[stack]

No insult taken but yes I am using the right side of the tool. LOL. Once it gets on as far as it will go it has a very small amount of wobble. I guess that what I was looking for is the smooth transition from shaft to point. If that is really not possible then I can live with what I have. I am pretty new at this hence all the questions. I have tried 23/64 field points and yes the do get the transition I was looking for. I just need to get the right weight now. I have changed from 125 gr to 145 gr. I can get what I need at the shoot next week. Thanks everyone for all your help.

Stack

[Orion]

Stack:  Zradix gives a good description of what to look for.  Doesn't make much difference if your taper is a little short, but it should fit snug without wobble when you push it in the point.  If not, one of about three things is happening.  The taper isn't being cut true.  That can be a problem with pencil sharpener type sharpeners.  Two, there may be some glue or other obstruction inside the point.  Or three, you may be putting too much glue on the shaft and it's hardening up before you get it seated properly.  Of course, if it wobbles when you try dry fitting a clean shaft into a clean point, then only no. 1 can be the culprit.

Just to clarify, you are talking about the shaft wobbling in the point, correct? not the entire arrow wobbling as you spin it with the point attached.  In addition to the factors already mentioned, the latter can be caused by an off-center tip and/or crooked arrow.  Keep at it, you'll figure it out.

[Hermon]

I had some points that after I tapered them, I had to remove about a 1/4 inch of the front of the taper to have the shaft seat all the way into the point.  I took it as the points had a short taper in them that required a shorter taper on the shaft.

[stack]

Yes the arrow wobbles in the point. The taper on the broadheads I am using, Snuffer 3 blade 145gr. seem to have a full taper 1 to 1 1/4 inch long my arrow only seems to go in about 3/4 of an inch. It looks to me like the taper in the broadhead is alot narrower than the taper that I put on my arrow. When the point is on my arrow there is a step down from the shaft to BOP . It is not a smooth transition. these are 11/16 ash shafts and 11/16 broadheads.

[Zradix]

I'm sure you mean 11/32's

Boy a pic would be great man.

With the bear paw being a non adjustable tool the angle of taper is machined right in.

Are you using bear paw blades?
The bear paw blades only have a mounting round hole for the screw and 2 holes for the pins. so they can't really be off.
...Not a slot like tru center's blades.

Are you sure you're using the correct "end piece" on the tool?
You should have got 3 different ends for different sized shafts.
Make sure you use the one that fits the shaft the tightest while still being easy to put through.

I've found that if the cut on the end of the shaft isn't pretty close to square you can get some "slanted" tapers that don't work great.

How does the taper look? is it smooth cut?
I know when I was using ash shafts the tapers weren't cut very smooth with any bladed tool.
The bearpaw did the best job..but not good enough for me on the ash.


Ended up making a jig for a bench sander.

Boy I'd like to help you get this figured out buddy.

[stack]

OOppss yep meant 11/32, 11/16 would be kinda thick for any arrow. Where is Shelby Mi. Im in linden just south of flint. Like I said before I'm going to take everything with me over to Elm Hall shoot next week and just start picking brains. I'm sure I will get it figured out.
Thanks Again for everybodys help.

Stack

[Zradix]

I just realized you're in MI stack.
I'm in Shelby. West coast between Ludington and Muskegon.
If you're close, maybe we can get together and compare tools or whatever..basically just try to get this stuff figured out.

[Zradix]

lol...same thoughts going on here..

Flint isn't just round the block...nuts!

[stack]

Are you going to the Elm Hall shoot next week? If so maybe we could hookup and shoot a round. I'll be going over on Sat. the 4th.

[Zradix]

That would be fun.
As it is, I'm in my Brother's wedding that weekend.
...This weekend is my Sister's wedding...lol