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Author Topic: Heating broadheads  (Read 173 times)

Offline Machino

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Heating broadheads
« on: August 04, 2012, 12:13:00 AM »
Can you heat broadheads up too much?  I might have to switch arrows for better spine.  Also, Is there a way to get all the glue off?  Shooting Aces.  A little is coming out of them, though it doesn't seam like a huge deal.  Thanks.

Offline JamesKerr

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2012, 01:17:00 AM »
If a broadhead gets to hot for you to handle you could ruin the temper on them. The best way to get glue out of the head is with something like a pipe cleaner.
James Kerr

Offline Mongo

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2012, 03:36:00 AM »
If you are going to be using hot melt to attach to the new arrows, I wouldn't bother getting all of the glue out.
If God didn't want man to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat.

Offline Bjorn

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2012, 01:01:00 PM »
You will need the glue next time so don't worry about it too much and yes you can overheat a BH and put the temper at risk.

Offline Sharpster

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2012, 10:22:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Bjorn:
You will need the glue next time so don't worry about it too much and yes you can overheat a BH and put the temper at risk.
Agreed. It's not only possible to over heat a broadhead, it's very easy to do. If the bevel turns blue, the temper/hardness is gone. If you're putting adapters in the BHDs, heat the adapter and put the glue on that. Then put the adapter in the head while the glue is still liquid. If it doesnt spin true, then heat the adapter to reset it, not the BHD. On wood shafts you really have no choice but to heat the BHD but use a very low flame directed into the ferrule and go slowly. Try to keep from heating up the blades any more than necessary.

Ron
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Offline Earl E. Nov...mber

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2012, 09:28:00 AM »
Too hot to handle is only about 120-140F,, You won't take the temper out until around 400F when bear metal will start to turn color..

Regardless the glue will melt well under the 400 Mark.

Always put the heat on the ferrule and not the blade.
Many have died for my freedom.
One has died for my soul.

Offline vintage archer

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2012, 12:44:00 PM »
It is best not to use a tourch. I t is very hard to control the heat using a torch . I reccomend  and use a alchol burner or a candle much easer to control and more even heat.
Joe Furlong

Offline Butch Speer

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2012, 04:51:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Earl E. Nov...mber:
Too hot to handle is only about 120-140F,, You won't take the temper out until around 400F when bear metal will start to turn color..

Regardless the glue will melt well under the 400 Mark.

Always put the heat on the ferrule and not the blade.
X2
God Bless

Butch the Yard Gnome

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Offline Vig

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2012, 06:05:00 PM »
Heat it just enough to melt the glue, that's all it takes.
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Offline Roger Norris

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2012, 06:47:00 PM »
I do it over a gas stove. I hold the head with pliers, and only let the flame of one "jet" inside the ferrule. The blade never heats up with this method. Obviously, put your melted glue on your shaft first.
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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2012, 07:52:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Roger Norris:
I do it over a gas stove. I hold the head with pliers, and only let the flame of one "jet" inside the ferrule. The blade never heats up with this method. Obviously, put your melted glue on your shaft first.
Exactly how I do it...

Offline Roger Norris

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Re: Heating broadheads
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2012, 07:34:00 AM »
Must be a Michigan thing   :bigsmyl:
"Good Lord....well, your new name is Sledge."
Ron LaClair upon seeing the destruction of his new lock on the east gate

"A man that cheats in the woods will cheat anywhere"
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