Bareshaft tuning all wrong time to start from scratch

[Formby]

well i have been bareshaft tuning all wrong so im just going to start over in arrow selection. I really like the carbon express heritage shafts, they are quiet and durable. So my question is which one would be the best to start with? I have a martin savannah 50#@28" I draw to 29" I have a 8 strand sbd string. I already have one 350 heritage shaft that is 33" long and with a 145gr point i am showing slightly weak, but im not sure if its a false weak. I also have a 250 heritage shaft that is 32.5" with 145gr point shoots about the same. i like the weight of these shafts as they are very quiet in my bow. I need some help with this i am not having any luck selecting some good shafts

[Orion]

A 250 spines about 80#.  If memory serves a 350 is a heavier spine yet.  In short, I think you're getting a false weak showing.  You might do better with 150s.  On the other hand, the 250s might work if you really load the front end --250 to 300 grains total.

[gonefishing600]

I concure with Orion, I would probably have started with 150's.

Get yourself a variety of different field points in different weights, 100,125, 175, 200 grains.

Make sure your nock point is set a minium of 1/2" for split finger, and 3/4" for three under. I shoot split finger, and set my nock at 5/8".

Good luck

[Gregg S]

You should be looking at about a 500 spine shaft for your setup. Then experiment with different point weights and find what works the best for you.

[JamesKerr]

I would think the 150 spine Carbon express would be what you want.

[sawtoothscream]

I would go for a 400 spine shaft (150?) for that set up.   I just tuned my 50# @ 26"  longbow today (I draw about 27- 27.5")  and it tuned great with full length 90's (500 spine) and a 100gr point.  bullet holes through paper and shoot like lazers.   with your long draw I would think 400spine would be better for you.   think ********* archery sells singles so you could buy a little sample kit for yourself and play around

[BWD]

Heritage 90's are 530 spine and 150's are 487 spine.

[Bladepeek]

BWD you beat me.

I like that spread too. Some additional choices o the 600, 500, 400 choices.

[Formby]

well i messaged the guy i got the savannah from and he said he shot full length 3555 gold tip shafts with that bow. I checked it on the stu miller calculator and it shows that would be about 20# weak.

[Rob W.]

If you want to use the 250's at 32.5" and your 145 gr. heads try 50 gr. of brass

the 350's would take 100gr. of brass and maybe cut to 32"


Standard inserts and those shafts and lengths would require a different head.

250-32.5" 175gr. heads
350-33"  200gr. head

I like the total arrow weights I get from the 250's and 350's. Everything else I needed weight tubes to be anywhere close. I always end up about 10+# weak on the calculators.


Rob

[bigbadjon]

I just looked at Carbon Express's website and the deflection on a 250 is .417 so it is comparable to a 400 from Easton. Personally I think that arrow might be too stiff from a 50# but I think you should be able to tune it, I just wouldn't go any stiffer. I wish every maker just listed the deflection as their model number so it doesn't get so confusing.

[BWD]

Sure would fill a void if one of the carbon shaft making companies would make a 5/8" shaft, at least 31" long, in a true .550" spine,imo.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

Cory
Your weak spine tells me that you might need to adjust your brace hight or move your nocking point. Also how tight are your nocks fitting on your bow string? if they fit real tight that will show weak spine Everyone here has given great advice.

[moebow]

bg,  I have to ask, how long have you been shooting???  The reason I ask is that a bare shaft will graphically point out each and EVERY form error you could possibly have!!  IF a form error is in existence, it can and will show up as a weak or stiff arrow or try to show as a nocking point issue.

IF you are a relative new person to shooting, just get some .500 range spine arrows and shoot them!  There will come a time when you will be able to determine that the results of a shot are you or your equipment.  That is the time to worry about more details such as tuning.  In the meantime, you will be able to hit what you are shooting at and not get all wrapped up in tuning.
FWIW

Arne

[Formby]

Yea im sure i do not great release i have been shooting less than a year and have little to no help with form. I just tested the heritage 250s, i have a fletched one and a bareshaft and no matter where my fletched arrow hit the bareshaft hit 5" to the right of it with the nock  pointing left. i also remeasured my draw and i am actually drawing about 29.5"

[gonefishing600]

You need more arrows. Just shooting one fletched, and one bare shaft is not going to be an accurate test. Forget about the flecthed shaft for now. Take about three or four bare shafts cut a 1/2" apart with a varity of different point weight, and go at it.

Watch your arrow flight. All you need is your bare shaft flying some what straight, and once you fletch them up they will fly pretty. If there fish tailing aka, moving from side to side, remember a few basic rules.

For RH shooters:

Nock left, arrow impacting to the right of intended target, means shaft to weak. Solution, less weight, shorter shaft, or stiffer spine.

Nock right, arrow impacting to the left of intended target, means shaft to stiff. Solution, more weight, longer shaft or weaker spine.

If all else fails, read MoBows last paragraph in the above post.

Good luck and never give up.

[Formby]

My question is when you say impacting nock left or nock right are you referring to where the arrow impacts the target or which way the nock is angled towards when it impacts the target?

[rraming]

I have a 55 lb Savannah I pull 27" and I would use the 150's with 145 grains or so up front, maybe more. You could go with light spine shafts as well but they get light and the bow likes things heavy

[gonefishing600]

Both.

If the nock end of the shaft goes to the left upon release, the tip of the arrow will inevitably go the the right, which will cause the shaft to travel right, and the oposite is true if the nock goes to the right.


Thank about it.

[Formby]

But does that mean that it is weak or stiff if the point of impact is right but the nock is left?